Is this a goner?

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Laurosaur

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I think I know the answer but I’m a total newbie (6 mos reefing) so I figured I’d ask.

We had to drain our sump to reseal a seam for a couple days, so the display was running without filtration. Temp swung ~4-5 degrees overnight while we were asleep one night by accident. RO was manually topped off every 6-12 hours since our ATO is normally hooked up to the sump.

pH 7.7-7.9
Temp 76-81
Salinity normally 1.026, probably swung a bit due to the manual top off
Alk 8.8
Ca 430
Mg 1600
PO4 0.1
NO3 5-10 ppm

Thanks. :(

869DD1FD-4044-4EF1-8489-2588A8C282CE.jpeg
 
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Laurosaur

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Hard to tell if it will come back but I’d recheck your parameters . Your mag is way high and your temp should never reach higher than 78 degrees
Thanks. I’ll leave it and see if it bounces back then. Our temp actually is usually very stable but it was a one time incident while we had to reseal the sump that it did the swing… the seal needed 48 hours to cure. Putting a heater in the display made it run slightly warm the first night (81) so we ran it without the rest of the time. It stayed a steady 78.4 (usual temp when everything is running properly) during the day but dropped down to 76 overnight the second night.

Our Mag has always been high - it’s our salt mix.
 
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shakacuz

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temp or salinity swing could kill corals but overall the parameters are decent… yes mag is high but that itself isn’t enough to bleach a coral like that. my bet is false test reading/user error or too much light too quickly
 
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Laurosaur

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temp or salinity swing could kill corals but overall the parameters are decent… yes mag is high but that itself isn’t enough to bleach a coral like that. my bet is false test reading/user error or too much light too quickly
Hmm okay. Normally my params are checked via apex/trident except for nitrate/phosphate. I checked them manually during the two days I was waiting for the silicone to cure in the sump.

I HAVE been cranking my radions up to 80% from 60% - it is on a 30 day acclimation mode (about halfway through). I got the frag from a friend who was running double the radions that I am running, but maybe that’s it.
 
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Laurosaur

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I don’t see stripped flesh but devoid of zooxanthellae which some people have had limited luck adding live zooxanthellae and feeding a product like fuel or Red Sea ab+
Okay. I do feed Red Sea AB+ daily. I don’t do zooxanthellae though. This is the only coral of ours so far that’s been totally bleached, so I guess I will see what happens…
 

Reefing102

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Hard to tell if it will come back but I’d recheck your parameters . Your mag is way high and your temp should never reach higher than 78 degrees
What? I run my tanks 79-80 and know plenty of people that run them 82-84. This is the first I’ve heard the never above 78 comment

With regards to the coral, it looks dead to me. I’m not seeing polyps or flesh (based on the pic anyway). If you think there might be something there, I’d drop it down in the tank and keep an eye on it
 

Dburr1014

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I think I know the answer but I’m a total newbie (6 mos reefing) so I figured I’d ask.

We had to drain our sump to reseal a seam for a couple days, so the display was running without filtration. Temp swung ~4-5 degrees overnight while we were asleep one night by accident. RO was manually topped off every 6-12 hours since our ATO is normally hooked up to the sump.

pH 7.7-7.9
Temp 76-81
Salinity normally 1.026, probably swung a bit due to the manual top off
Alk 8.8
Ca 430
Mg 1600
PO4 0.1
NO3 5-10 ppm

Thanks. :(

869DD1FD-4044-4EF1-8489-2588A8C282CE.jpeg

Can you get a clearer pic? Really hard to see any flesh or zooxanthellae. I don't see polyps either. When you turn on the blue lights, anything glowing?


Hard to tell if it will come back but I’d recheck your parameters . Your mag is way high and your temp should never reach higher than 78 degrees

My mag has been over 1600 for months, no effect on coral. I agree to keep it at 78ish but some do run it higher.

Thanks. I’ll leave it and see if it bounces back then. Our temp actually is usually very stable but it was a one time incident while we had to reseal the sump that it did the swing… the seal needed 48 hours to cure. Putting a heater in the display made it run slightly warm the first night (81) so we ran it without the rest of the time. It stayed a steady 78.4 (usual temp when everything is running properly) during the day but dropped down to 76 overnight the second night.

Our Mag has always been high - it’s our salt mix.

Are you saying the swings happened when this coral was in your possession?

Hmm okay. Normally my params are checked via apex/trident except for nitrate/phosphate. I checked them manually during the two days I was waiting for the silicone to cure in the sump.

I HAVE been cranking my radions up to 80% from 60% - it is on a 30 day acclimation mode (about halfway through). I got the frag from a friend who was running double the radions that I am running, but maybe that’s it.

If your friend was running the same lights you could have just dropped it in your tank with the sameish settings/par and not have to do the acclimation mode. Coral is already acclimated.
 

CoralB

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Can you get a clearer pic? Really hard to see any flesh or zooxanthellae. I don't see polyps either. When you turn on the blue lights, anything glowing?




My mag has been over 1600 for months, no effect on coral. I agree to keep it at 78ish but some do run it higher.



Are you saying the swings happened when this coral was in your possession?



If your friend was running the same lights you could have just dropped it in your tank with the sameish settings/par and not have to do the acclimation mode. Coral is already acclimated.
Which test kit measures past 1500 ?? And although it may be in fact 1600 and there is no documented negative side effects for it being higher I personally try not to take chances when it’s not necessary. Sorry I probably should have stated “ in my opinion “
 
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Laurosaur

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Can you get a clearer pic? Really hard to see any flesh or zooxanthellae. I don't see polyps either. When you turn on the blue lights, anything glowing?




My mag has been over 1600 for months, no effect on coral. I agree to keep it at 78ish but some do run it higher.



Are you saying the swings happened when this coral was in your possession?



If your friend was running the same lights you could have just dropped it in your tank with the sameish settings/par and not have to do the acclimation mode. Coral is already acclimated.

I’m afraid that’s the best pic I can get with my phone - using an orphek filter. As far as I can tell there’s no color when the blue lights are on, and I can’t see polyps. I think it’s gone…

Yes, the swing was accidental while we were doing a 2 day sump drain to reseal a seam in the sump. All our sump equipment was off during that time. The display runs hot during the day so we did not add a heater the second night and there was a 4-5 degree swing. Usually the temp is stable between 78-79. The coral has been in there for a couple of months, but did bleach overnight after I refilled the sump and turned everything back on.

Thanks! He was running xr30s. I’m running xr15s/have fewer light than him so he told me to up the schedule to 80%. As not all of my coral are used to the higher intensity, it’s on acclimation mode for a month.
 
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CoralB

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What? I run my tanks 79-80 and know plenty of people that run them 82-84. This is the first I’ve heard the never above 78 comment

With regards to the coral, it looks dead to me. I’m not seeing polyps or flesh (based on the pic anyway). If you think there might be something there, I’d drop it down in the tank and keep an eye on it
Yes I did mis speak as I should have stated “ that it’s in my opinion to keep temp around 78 “ that being said some fish, and inverts can’t handle much more than 78 degrees . Corals although even if slowly brought up to a temp of 80 to 85 and keep them steady at that temp can handle it especially if the strains are from closer to the equator , but others do not thrive as well as at a temp that they are not used to . we get coral from around the world and from different temps and depths . I keep mixed tanks that I’ve found 78 a good all around temp and feel that it’s a good temp for all to thrive , fish ,inverts , and most fish except cold water species . There are a few other reasons I don’t advocate the higher temp but I don’t feel like writing a paper on it at the moment . But to name a few other then what I’ve already stated is my other concerns are Oxygen depletion, immunological issues , and stress put on the glue of the seams of the aquarium which I have first hand negative experience. As years ago I lost a 150 gallon tank keeping a tank at 86 degrees for a discus tank which blew out after less than a year . Discussed it with the manufacturer at the time and gave him all info including pictures of stand with level , temp, etc. they took the tank back and told me that the consistent 86 degree temp compromised the integrity of the glue . I lost two tanks from two different manufacturers back then from glue failure due to the higher temp . That being said glues today I’m sure are stronger but if you don’t have to why push it . No matter what temperature you may or not believe or tanks inhabitants can or can handle you certainly don’t want to have drastic changes happen fast . So again I should have clarified that it was my opinion and why . :cool:
 

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Which test kit measures past 1500 ?? And although it may be in fact 1600 and there is no documented negative side effects for it being higher I personally try not to take chances when it’s not necessary. Sorry I probably should have stated “ in my opinion “
Aquaforest
I didn't shoot for 1600 but my arm media says with high Magnesium. It just happened that way.
 
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Dburr1014

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Wow !!! How are their other test kits as far as accuracy. I’m asking because I’m trying to replace my Hanna cal tester
Not sure, I needed a mag tester and based on brs review, I took a chance.
I really like the test kit. It has directions based on the calcium level. It also comes with a standard. I would definatly buy again.
 
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