Is this cyano??

[JOKER]

Check out Dana riddles dino id thread.
He added a blue led strip and got a bloom of a something. Just fascinating that the simple addition of one tiny thing would spur a bloom of something we all have in our tanks.

It is very crazy for sure. I think ramping up my lights would definitely be the culprit. I am sure I had a few spots to start with, and the lights just made it worse..

 

[JOKER]

I also dosed one dose of iodide. That could have contributed too. After research I found several tanks with low iodine that looked great. I only feed LRS reef frenzy food with reef chili every once in a while.

 

[rtparty]

I suggest your start reading this thread. At a minimum read the first post...

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/293318/

 

[Velcro]

My money is on dinos. Been there, done that.

 

[JOKER]

I suggest your start reading this thread. At a minimum read the first post...

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/293318/

So this makes me think I should feed more?????

 

[rtparty]

So this makes me think I should feed more?????

Well, no.

Feeding more is a terrible way to raise NO3 and PO4 because there is no control to it. If you dose N and P, you can know exactly how much does what in your system. For example, I know a 2-3ml dose of PO4 (Seachem Flourish) in my system keeps my P elevated around .10ppm.

Feeding more can have some benefits though but I wouldn't use it as a tool to help combat dinos

 

[Velcro]

I tried the feeding more approach and filter feeder growth started to explode... this included digitate hydroids and aiptasia. The digitate hydroids faded after I stopped feeding so much and switched to dosing inorganic nitrate/phosphate. The aiptasia is fading after adding a good amount of berghia nudibranchs.

I definitely recommend inorganic sources

 

[Mrx7899]

I just had something that looked like that brown and stringy on my corals and sand bed did one treatment of vibrant and it was gone

 

[JOKER]

Well, no.

Feeding more is a terrible way to raise NO3 and PO4 because there is no control to it. If you dose N and P, you can know exactly how much does what in your system. For example, I know a 2-3ml dose of PO4 (Seachem Flourish) in my system keeps my P elevated around .10ppm.

Feeding more can have some benefits though but I wouldn't use it as a tool to help combat dinos

So what would you recommend? Seachem flourish??

 

[JOKER]

I just had something that looked like that brown and stringy on my corals and sand bed did one treatment of vibrant and it was gone

I have vibrant, but I used it in a tank and had more trouble after dosing.

 

[jsker]

What are you nitrates and phosphate readings?

What type of lighting are you using?

What is the spectrum time, Blues???? Whites???

 

[rtparty]

So what would you recommend? Seachem flourish??

Seachem Flourish for phosphate and Spectracide Stump Remover for nitrate.

A high quality, food grade sodium nitrate or sodium phosphate will also work. Do some research here. Randy had linked food grade sodium phosphate in the past

 

[JOKER]

What are you nitrates and phosphate readings?

What type of lighting are you using?

What is the spectrum time, Blues???? Whites???

Phosphate .009, nitrate 5. Lighting is 3 25ow radium 20kMH, 2 blue+ T5 80 w, and 2 actinic T5 80w.
I wonder if I should try turning the AWC off for a few days, or the skimmer.

 

[JOKER]

Seachem Flourish for phosphate and Spectracide Stump Remover for nitrate.

A high quality, food grade sodium nitrate or sodium phosphate will also work. Do some research here. Randy had linked food grade sodium phosphate in the past

Thanks. I will look into those. I am trying 72 hour black out now with H202 dosing. I plan to turn lights back on tomorrow, or just one MH anyways.

 

[Velcro]

Try bumping phosphate up to 0.05ppm with seachem flourish phosphorous. Also consider a jebao 55watt UV with slow flow (100-200gph). Your species looks like mine did, and it went into the water column at night. The first 24 hours of UV wiped it down to about 10% of the previous amount of dinos and they were literally 100% gone to my eye in 72 hours. Best to hook it up directly to the display for the first couple weeks. I eventually took it off completely.

https://www.amazon.com/Jebao-PU-55-...&qid=1512578415&sr=8-2&keywords=jebao+55+watt

 

[JOKER]

Try bumping phosphate up to 0.05ppm with seachem flourish phosphorous. Also consider a jebao 55watt UV with slow flow (100-200gph). Your species looks like mine did, and it went into the water column at night. The first 24 hours of UV wiped it down to about 10% of the previous amount of dinos and they were literally 100% gone to my eye in 72 hours. Best to hook it up directly to the display for the first couple weeks. I eventually took it off completely.

https://www.amazon.com/Jebao-PU-55-...&qid=1512578415&sr=8-2&keywords=jebao+55+watt

Thanks I will look into that also.

 

[twilliard]

Hey guys!
For sure not cyanobacteria
Now when we talk dinoflagellates there are many species. H2O2 will have little effect on many of them.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Lol. Food is not good now.

Vibrant will feed cyano in two ways btw.

 

[JOKER]

Hey guys!
For sure not cyanobacteria
Now when we talk dinoflagellates there are many species. H2O2 will have little effect on many of them.

I was hoping for cyano. LOL. What would you recommend?? After 2 days lights out it is mostly gone for now, but I think if I turn the lights back on it is possible to return. My plan of action is cleaning the sand bed first then a water change.

 

[jsker]

Phosphate .009, nitrate 5. Lighting is 3 25ow radium 20kMH, 2 blue+ T5 80 w, and 2 actinic T5 80w.
I wonder if I should try turning the AWC off for a few days, or the skimmer.

Thank you

I just turned down my white spectrum to 5 hours a day at 30% and my DT cleaned up real quick. I would suggest trying take Your nutrients look fine.