is this cyano?
- Thread starter merlinsmagic
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Looks to be it. I would say it is. I've had luck with red slime remover but you have to do it per instructions. You might need more flow and if you don't mind what are your parameters? Probably something is off there as well. How old is the tank?
merlinsmagic
Community Member
tank was set up may of this year,
ph 7.8 salinity/sg 1.024, ammonia 0, nitrates under 20, nitrites 2, cal 440, alk 300+ I have added new coral after dipping in coral revive, maybe that stuff doesnt kill cyano and it came in that way? All i know is that it is bugging some of my zoas that are on the sand bed.
ph 7.8 salinity/sg 1.024, ammonia 0, nitrates under 20, nitrites 2, cal 440, alk 300+ I have added new coral after dipping in coral revive, maybe that stuff doesnt kill cyano and it came in that way? All i know is that it is bugging some of my zoas that are on the sand bed.
JackoChang
Active Member
+1, just read an article that cucumbers eat cyano and diatoms.
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/1/inverts
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/3/inverts
Has pH always been 7.8?
For a 7 month tank I'd expect to see 0ppm nitrites
Alk 300+ ppm? What are you testing with? How old is the kit?
What's your po4?
In the meantime you can scoop it out so that your Zs will live...or move your Zs.
What's your nutrient export consist of? Macros? Mechanical.
Better yet, got a pic or two of your system?
Last edited:
jbannick18
New Member
Looks like a small enough system that you could do big water changes over the course of the month. Most likely will have to run some sort of GFO to reduce your phosophates as other posters have said.
I guess it's a hit or miss with those guys. Either way you have to get to the root of it. +1 on the nitrites. They should always be at 0. Maybe it's not even the Cyano disturbing the Zs. Nitrite is toxic. Take care of that to start of with. Large water changes and run some carbon or gfo. It could still techinicaly be considered a new tank and could even be hitting some cycle points. And yes what are you testing with? and age?
beaslbob
2500 Club Member
Looks like cyano to me
Kill the lights and stop adding food and it should die of in less then a week. After that continue with less lighting and feeding untill you find the combination that allows the corraline, macros, and corals thrive but the cyano doesn't come back.
my .02
Kill the lights and stop adding food and it should die of in less then a week. After that continue with less lighting and feeding untill you find the combination that allows the corraline, macros, and corals thrive but the cyano doesn't come back.
my .02
robert
Valuable Member
Its cyano...
It will go away in the dark and simply return when the light come back on so killing the lights really won't help anything. Red slime remover is an antibiotic - might kill the cyano - but wont fix anything really.
Siphon out as much as possible - take the substrate its attached to with it - bleach and return the substrate if you want, but I wouldn't return the substrate until I got the cyano issue solved.
The root of your problem is a build up of organics - so the solution is removing excess organics. The look of the tank and your ph suggests low O2 - a skimmer would help by increasing dissolved O2 (which will help keep the ph up) and remove some of the excess organics. Your flow also looks too low, especially down near the sand bed.
Once the PH/O2/excess organics are addressed then adding GFO will make sense. GFO by itself, before you address the bigger problem won't help. If your nitrates are really 20 - then that's not too bad, but FYI - if you don't shake the test vials vigorously, the test kits may grossly under report the actual nitrate level. You might know this - but I didn't when I first started - thought I had 20 when I really had 100+.
If you already have a skimmer - then you might want to add an oxidizer - old school would be potassium permanganate - H2O2 - or something like chemi-clean, but again - get the flow up first - and don't run an oxidizer without a skimmer.
my 2 cents -
It will go away in the dark and simply return when the light come back on so killing the lights really won't help anything. Red slime remover is an antibiotic - might kill the cyano - but wont fix anything really.
Siphon out as much as possible - take the substrate its attached to with it - bleach and return the substrate if you want, but I wouldn't return the substrate until I got the cyano issue solved.
The root of your problem is a build up of organics - so the solution is removing excess organics. The look of the tank and your ph suggests low O2 - a skimmer would help by increasing dissolved O2 (which will help keep the ph up) and remove some of the excess organics. Your flow also looks too low, especially down near the sand bed.
Once the PH/O2/excess organics are addressed then adding GFO will make sense. GFO by itself, before you address the bigger problem won't help. If your nitrates are really 20 - then that's not too bad, but FYI - if you don't shake the test vials vigorously, the test kits may grossly under report the actual nitrate level. You might know this - but I didn't when I first started - thought I had 20 when I really had 100+.
If you already have a skimmer - then you might want to add an oxidizer - old school would be potassium permanganate - H2O2 - or something like chemi-clean, but again - get the flow up first - and don't run an oxidizer without a skimmer.
my 2 cents -
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