It’s a 240lWhere they're actually at on the sides is up to you. What size tank is this? Flow as mentioned is something you'll have to tinker with. I'm just helping as you dip your toe in the water.
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It’s a 240lWhere they're actually at on the sides is up to you. What size tank is this? Flow as mentioned is something you'll have to tinker with. I'm just helping as you dip your toe in the water.
This, plus one more of the same WaveMaker is what I would use. You only need 1 controller to operate both.
There's more settings than that. All sorts of varying pulses and modes along with speed and duration control.Oh ok. So basically the controller is just a speed knob
So you think running a canister is fine for now. For max 4 fishThere's more settings than that. All sorts of varying pulses and modes along with speed and duration control.
I haven't used a canister so can't speak on it. Just know you should keep up with maintenance on it.So you think running a canister is fine for now. For max 4 fish
Wow what an awesome reply. Thank you. Honestly most of it flew over my head but I do get what you are saying.Updates to your cycle from the realm of -updated- cycling science 2022, in contrast to old cycling science from 1999
see that first picture
this tank was fully cycled / meaning you can’t possibly control ammonia any faster or better/ when the very first spot of diatoms appeared
the tank is now 100% diatoms, but this is a firm rule of benthic visual cycling cues: any new benthic growths we can see by eye indicate a completed cycle for ammonia control. Your non digital test kits may not agree, but they’re useless in todays cycling compared to what digital meters show.
you are done cycling, and into reefing choices now. Waiting longer can’t make your tank safer for fish. Nitrite no longer has any bearing in reef cycling. You don’t need to dose ammonia, test anything for cycling (non digital kits make you think a done cycle is only partially ready) this cycle is done.
if this was a seneye charted cycle, we’d clearly see the coincidence between ammonia control and the first new growth of algae, cyano or diatoms.
you don’t need the whole tank covered to know the cycle is done, any rocks that sat in water long enough for a spot to form indicate all the rocks in the contact time are equally able to control ammonia.
there are no cycles on this entire site that aren’t done. This seems crazy I know to the masses and so did pico reefs seem crazy to the masses in 2001, before reef tank size rules also got updated.
for study exercise, anyone feel free to go find someone’s new tank seneye cycle and post their logs. Let’s see how long it took after one day for ammonia to drop after using bottle bac or live rock.
Also what an awesome reply. But it again I’m not smart enough to understand your post haha.Any cycle on any reef forum that seems 50% done is actually done and they’re getting ripped off thinking nh4 should be zero to be ready. reef tanks don’t run at zero ammonia / that’s old info
it is time to choose how clean you want to run the tank and how you want to begin fish disease preps. The whole reason we use updated cycling science is to prepare for certain fish disease coming if we don’t prep for it; old cycling science lies and says a tank is ready for fish when ammonia and nitrite are zero, and it never discusses fish disease at all. A tank is ready for fish after you run fallow and qt preps for the animals that it can carry once any visual benthic cue is in place.
Not every tank gets these growths and can still be cycled anyway, but if a tank happens to get one of the marker growths it is certainly ready.
see any cycling charts ammonia line…how many days is it on all charts? (Ten days)
it takes longer than ten days to produce these growths…and when the growths are imported on other live rocks they can appear within ten days: it’s cycled due to those imported live materials anyway. There are no cycles in reefing that take longer than ten days (as tracked on seneye of course)
seneye changed cycling rules. Old cycling science simply cannot adjust to accurate ammonia testing we have now, it is fully built around the delays (one month on average) associated with Noh digital testing.
Hey man. I bought a test and I’m confused how to read it.The tank can carry lots of fish without burning them, it can handle waste processing. If you add fish without specific disease preps from the fish disease forum stickies, that's the risk. Delayed disease having nothing to do with cycling
So the No2 is over 1Nm i thought that was an ammonia kit
We don't test for nitrite any longer that's a wasted purchase/ ignore
And the nitrate looks easy to read against its card
So the No2 is over 1Nm i thought that was an ammonia kit
We don't test for nitrite any longer that's a wasted purchase/ ignore
And the nitrate looks easy to read against its card
When I read your posts I sit there and think am I reading this correctly.findings
when I clicked to see page one and the discussion of benthic visual cycling cues I recall how well your cycle fits the example.
so the rule follows this way:
any tank showing that in pics is 100% cycled.
we don't test a display reef tank for ammonia, or nitrite, after cycling. this is currently underway, we would cease testing for ammonia and nitrite any further, for the life of the tank. it removes two worries permanently from your toolset. it also removes two, of three guesstimate feel-good-only test kits from the tool set.
temp and salinity are friendlies, they get to stay.
we don't test for nitrate until you are into your second month. reason: accounts for nitrite interference and natural resolve time- the nitrite line from a cycling chart is what we reference. we're waiting double that time
then if you want to test for nitrate you can
so you'd now suspend ammonia testing and nitrite testing permanently
and base all your upcoming reef decisions (you are past cycling decisions) on things other than ammonia and nitrite. don't base any decisions on nitrate until the tank is beyond sixty days old, then you're free to choose to be a high or low nitrate guesstimate system without harm. Paul B's reef tank hits 160 nitrate...that's higher end. nice corals.
thousands of tanks strive for 5 nitrates
nice corals
it doesn't matter what you do with nitrate in the end. I never tested for it ever, don't own the kit. keep any coral no problem. except for capnella lol