Is this cycle going ok?

[deepsynth]

agreed a summary is in order!

-nitrite is indeed deadly only in freshwater, never ever in reef displays because display reefs run high salt vs low, the salt levels we keep/chloride blocks the receptor channels in marine animals that nitrite would normally burn/Randy HF has an article called nitrite in the reef tank we all cut teeth on to arrive at the distinction.

the recommend to stop testing for nitrite is only because that's a display reef tank above. you'd test for it in freshwater setups, hyposalinity holding tanks


but not ever in a display reef, bc it doesn't matter what it reads. your display reef and reefing choices will not change based on ANY reading of nitrite in a display reef tank. it allows you one less param to worry about, forego the test from here on out.


_____________________________


you are smack dab in the middle of a change in the marine aquarium side of cycling science

it's so new that about 90% of readers won't believe when I'm telling them and that's understandable. they will adhere to the old ways, which is about 30-60 days before all the test kits line up. they will then input fish because all cycling material (the stuff I'm updating) says it's safe to add fish when levels are 0/0/some degree of nitrate.

those keepers will then flood Jay's disease forum next May with staggered fish disease losses by the bucketload, because old cycling science only hyperfocuses on test kits and it never talks about disease prep.

I urge you to stop testing for or concerning over any aspect of your cycle. you are underway reefing, you're past cycling and those parameters can't undo or drift out of spec. the test kits will eventually misread, causing you to take extended unneeded action; its best to cease testing for ammonia and nitrite.

your tank needs to be setup for sixty days before testing for nitrate, you have a reasonable chance of getting an accurate ballpark reading by waiting until day sixty, but not before, for reasons stated regarding nitrite interference.

per old cycling science, ammonia can drift out of spec you'd better test it routinely. you will buy bottle bac occasionally to make up for the dead bac that registered on your ammonia test kit as a spike.

per new cycling science, that is bunk junk rules written by a bottle bac seller designed to scare us all into repeat buying of bottled bacteria, and nobody in a display reef should be testing for ammonia and nitrite after a marine cycle completes because neither param can drift out of spec. 100% of all cycling efforts in 2022 and beyond must focus on disease preps, applying fallow and quarantine systems. anyone who chooses to test ammonia with digital meters knows it's never zero and that any ups and downs are expected, natural, and don't need to be tracked.


you will have to choose which method of reefing you want.

I just wanted to say thank you so much. I can understand that people are stuck on old science. But I get what you are saying and it’s actually really interesting and feeds into the opinion that the less that you do the less that can go wrong.
Thank you man.

 

[deepsynth]

agreed a summary is in order!

-nitrite is indeed deadly only in freshwater, never ever in reef displays because display reefs run high salt vs low, the salt levels we keep/chloride blocks the receptor channels in marine animals that nitrite would normally burn/Randy HF has an article called nitrite in the reef tank we all cut teeth on to arrive at the distinction.

the recommend to stop testing for nitrite is only because that's a display reef tank above. you'd test for it in freshwater setups, hyposalinity holding tanks


but not ever in a display reef, bc it doesn't matter what it reads. your display reef and reefing choices will not change based on ANY reading of nitrite in a display reef tank. it allows you one less param to worry about, forego the test from here on out.


_____________________________


you are smack dab in the middle of a change in the marine aquarium side of cycling science

it's so new that about 90% of readers won't believe when I'm telling them and that's understandable. they will adhere to the old ways, which is about 30-60 days before all the test kits line up. they will then input fish because all cycling material (the stuff I'm updating) says it's safe to add fish when levels are 0/0/some degree of nitrate.

those keepers will then flood Jay's disease forum next May with staggered fish disease losses by the bucketload, because old cycling science only hyperfocuses on test kits and it never talks about disease prep.

I urge you to stop testing for or concerning over any aspect of your cycle. you are underway reefing, you're past cycling and those parameters can't undo or drift out of spec. the test kits will eventually misread, causing you to take extended unneeded action; its best to cease testing for ammonia and nitrite.

your tank needs to be setup for sixty days before testing for nitrate, you have a reasonable chance of getting an accurate ballpark reading by waiting until day sixty, but not before, for reasons stated regarding nitrite interference.

per old cycling science, ammonia can drift out of spec you'd better test it routinely. you will buy bottle bac occasionally to make up for the dead bac that registered on your ammonia test kit as a spike.

per new cycling science, that is bunk junk rules written by a bottle bac seller designed to scare us all into repeat buying of bottled bacteria, and nobody in a display reef should be testing for ammonia and nitrite after a marine cycle completes because neither param can drift out of spec. 100% of all cycling efforts in 2022 and beyond must focus on disease preps, applying fallow and quarantine systems. anyone who chooses to test ammonia with digital meters knows it's never zero and that any ups and downs are expected, natural, and don't need to be tracked.


you will have to choose which method of reefing you want.

Sorry I also wanted to ask about carbon dosing. Or should I just leave it out

 

[brandon429]

based off 2 threads last week where Jay stated studies about carbon causing erosion problems on fish skin across like ten species I'm changing stance on it too. its a heck of a water polisher Ive used

but if there's fish, I no longer would even though 200 reefers do use carbon in the water as a polisher/filter catch

its not possible to sample opinions further to get the right vs wrong way of reefing, at this point you have to make use of your cycle/choose to skip or apply disease protocols, and begin reefing for sure. each person will have so many opinions you'll get lost in the mire...we got the tank fully cycled/make use of it

you aren't half or a third cycled, its fully cycled for bioload carry

no ramp up needed

bac are in full

your tank could carry fifteen small fish in it right now if you want that many and think they won't be disease-laden. gotta spend 2 days reading Jays disease forum, all posts on page one even the new help posts so you can check for things they missed, that got them to posting in Jays forum within eight months of setup.

 

[deepsynth]

based off 2 threads last week where Jay stated studies about carbon causing erosion problems on fish skin across like ten species I'm changing stance on it too. its a heck of a water polisher Ive used

but if there's fish, I no longer would even though 200 reefers do use carbon in the water as a polisher/filter catch

its not possible to sample opinions further to get the right vs wrong way of reefing, at this point you have to make use of your cycle/choose to skip or apply disease protocols, and begin reefing for sure. each person will have so many opinions you'll get lost in the mire...we got the tank fully cycled/make use of it

you aren't half or a third cycled, its fully cycled for bioload carry

no ramp up needed

bac are in full

your tank could carry fifteen small fish in it right now if you want that many and think they won't be disease-laden. gotta spend 2 days reading Jays disease forum, all posts on page one even the new help posts so you can check for things they missed, that got them to posting in Jays forum within eight months of setup.

Against thank you so much. I can’t believe how you take the time to really answer questions personally. I’m going to read through some of your posts as I’m sure there is a wealth of knowledge in them.

mill get some fish and give you an update.

 

[deepsynth]

Updates to your cycle from the realm of -updated- cycling science 2022, in contrast to old cycling science from 1999

see that first picture

this tank was fully cycled / meaning you can’t possibly control ammonia any faster or better/ when the very first spot of diatoms appeared


the tank is now 100% diatoms, but this is a firm rule of benthic visual cycling cues: any new benthic growths we can see by eye indicate a completed cycle for ammonia control. Your non digital test kits may not agree, but they’re useless in todays cycling compared to what digital meters show.

you are done cycling, and into reefing choices now. Waiting longer can’t make your tank safer for fish. Nitrite no longer has any bearing in reef cycling. You don’t need to dose ammonia, test anything for cycling (non digital kits make you think a done cycle is only partially ready) this cycle is done.

if this was a seneye charted cycle, we’d clearly see the coincidence between ammonia control and the first new growth of algae, cyano or diatoms.

you don’t need the whole tank covered to know the cycle is done, any rocks that sat in water long enough for a spot to form indicate all the rocks in the contact time are equally able to control ammonia.


there are no cycles on this entire site that aren’t done. This seems crazy I know to the masses and so did pico reefs seem crazy to the masses in 2001, before reef tank size rules also got updated.

for study exercise, anyone feel free to go find someone’s new tank seneye cycle and post their logs. Let’s see how long it took after one day for ammonia to drop after using bottle bac or live rock.

Hi Brandon.

hope you are well.

can you tell me if this is good or bad please

 

[brandon429]

which part are we assessing with the pics

 

[deepsynth]

which part are we assessing with the pics

The plant growing on the rock. It looks different to the initial brown stuff. Now it looks like a little tree

 

[brandon429]

You can see from reading up on new tanks the uglies are coming and those threads show myriad control options

Select anyone's new cycled tank thread in searches, check out how your tank is about to proceed

Research where your tank is heading by finding other cycles like yours from 6 mos ago/ see where they wound up

 

[deepsynth]

You can see from reading up on new tanks the uglies are coming and those threads show myriad control options

Select anyone's new cycled tank thread in searches, check out how your tank is about to proceed

Research where your tank is heading by finding other cycles like yours from 6 mos ago/ see where they wound up

cool thansk man

 

[brandon429]

I want to give you one inside scoop you'll never ever ever see in threads showing white rock maturation


don't tinker with the water. everything you're about to see if someone's white rock tank getting invaded eventually, and they either do nothing (bad move) or they begin using non digital test kits to take readings, then they dose things in reaction to complete guesses of levels / second bad move extends their issues

all you do is this/opposite of the masses

you selected non coralline rock. that means you work 10x as hard now for a few years to control algae vs a full coralline rock that costs a lot more and could have bad hitchhikers

you get to control your inputs with this type of rock, the tradeoff is they're white/reflective and grow copious interchanging algae species, you can see that in any cycle tracking thread.

the masses put their rock stack in place and refuse to touch it, do opposite.


expect to be disassembling your rock stack a lot, make it modular. any corals you glue on rocks can ride out and set on your cabinet for external working. physically handling the rocks vs tinkering with guess tests in water.

you use a knife to rid algae, not a brush. the masses use a brush, the masses are constantly invaded you will see in their thread reads

you roughly score and scrape off algae, rinse down the sink it doesnt matter what water you use just rinse it off, and set the rock back

until it's all coralline, then you get to work less.

you will now have 100% control over your rocks from this day forward, this leaves only your sandbed to house matted growths common to new tank setups with no live rock inclusions

be siphoning that up, for years, until your system stabilizes. I recommend you get and hook up a uv sterilizer, it's too long to discuss why/ the threads show/but it's a direct recommend to you. pick one/install it is the recommend, the details don't matter.

you are free now to choose to own an invaded tank, or free to choose to own a non invaded tank you'll just work a lot to get there.

lastly, set your reef lights to the setting you think is best for corals based on your reading.

then specifically go in and reduce overall power of that choice you made, to -30% lower intensity and don't run anything higher for six months, all your corals will be fine.

to own a wrecked tank is the choice of the owner, various excuses prevent them from taking control over their setup. we removed several of those excuses above, I never mentioned recycling, I never mentioned a test kit, we said it doesn't even matter if you use tap to rinse off a scraped algae area, it's all an action set you have control of. none of it is fancy chemistry. it's brute force, my grandmother kept a 2 acre lot of green-quality grass free of dandelions for 54 years with only a butter knife, the lady was not playing around and it looked that way.

no chemicals involved, no hesitation, take total control of your rock scape. be setting it on the counter and working it/setting it back as a routine. cleaning that junk you can see collecting up under the rocks when you remove them

 

[brandon429]

if none of that is possible because the tank is too big/or the rocks are already glued/name the reason/ then the benefit of tracking out several cycling threads from April this year is you will certainly see the actions they wound up taking + impacts, you can try that in your system and hope for best outcome...


notice I didn't mention a clean up crew above, that's by design. the masses use/hope to use/clean up crews


I never do what the masses do in reefing

I know you'll still be tempted and will add 20 or so, but that was omitted for a reason (the reason is nothing left to blame an invasion on: my cuc didn't work, they fill your system up with waste pellets and help about .05% of the time)

by taking 100% control of your substrates I can factually guarantee you a non invaded reef, but you have to cause that condition. I have never let my own nano become wrecked/it gets this medicine above/that's how it got to year 17 tomorrow

your system will begin to stabilize around year 3. less work then to cause the clean condition

 

[deepsynth]

if none of that is possible because the tank is too big/or the rocks are already glued/name the reason/ then the benefit of tracking out several cycling threads from April this year is you will certainly see the actions they wound up taking + impacts, you can try that in your system and hope for best outcome...


notice I didn't mention a clean up crew above, that's by design. the masses use/hope to use/clean up crews


I never do what the masses do in reefing

I know you'll still be tempted and will add 20 or so, but that was omitted for a reason (the reason is nothing left to blame an invasion on: my cuc didn't work, they fill your system up with waste pellets and help about .05% of the time)

by taking 100% control of your substrates I can factually guarantee you a non invaded reef, but you have to cause that condition. I have never let my own nano become wrecked/it gets this medicine above/that's how it got to year 17 tomorrow

your system will begin to stabilize around year 3. less work then to cause the clean condition

wow this really got me down, i didnt realise that it was bad

 

[brandon429]

it depends on how you look at it, that's the ability to not have an invaded tank. the uninformed folks would love to know that trick, it merely moves owning a clean tank from something you have to luck into / right squarely into a matter of personal responsibility. the right size reef for anyone to own isn't the largest possible reef, it's whatever max size reef they're willing to access for controls to ensure their $ investment doesn't look like a wreck

be sure and click/find/search examples of cycles from six months ago so you can easily see 2 hours ago where your tank is heading/ nothing will be a surprise

 

[deepsynth]

it depends on how you look at it, that's the ability to not have an invaded tank. the uninformed folks would love to know that trick, it merely moves owning a clean tank from something you have to luck into / right squarely into a matter of personal responsibility. the right size reef for anyone to own isn't the largest possible reef, it's whatever max size reef they're willing to access for controls to ensure their $ investment doesn't look like a wreck

be sure and click/find/search examples of cycles from six months ago so you can easily see 2 hours ago where your tank is heading/ nothing will be a surprise

Are these clown fish ok?

 

[deepsynth]

Are these clown fish ok.
They are lying on the sand and look tired

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hey guys. Is this all normal. For some reason I don’t think so

This is diatom and often associated with presence of silicates from new sand-new tank-New dry rock and while many state it is a new Tank thing- It can occur in established tanks when Di Resin is depleted or leaching into systems and when Tap water is added to tank
You will want toreduce white light intensity and even hours of white light daily. Siphon as needed and blow rock with turkey baster , add liquid bacteria such as Micro Bacter 7 or XLM at 1.5ml per 10 gallons daily for 7-10 days and add snails such as :
cerith
nerite
astrea
trochus
Margarita
Nassarius

. . . . . . To help with control

 

[vetteguy53081]

Are these clown fish ok.
They are lying on the sand and look tired

While clowns will do this, can you take closer pics of clown?

 

[brandon429]

if they lay on their sides during the day, or hover at the top unable to breathe that would be a problem. in the disease forum I've been reading a thread Jay is in regarding acclimation, a new keeper was making huge impacts against fish by failing to acclimate correctly from the pet store, some pet stores keep very low water and adding into the tank can be rough. that will occur long before any cycling issues were a concern for sure. all looks normal above.

 

[deepsynth]

if they lay on their sides during the day, or hover at the top unable to breathe that would be a problem. in the disease forum I've been reading a thread Jay is in regarding acclimation, a new keeper was making huge impacts against fish by failing to acclimate correctly from the pet store, some pet stores keep very low water and adding into the tank can be rough. that will occur long before any cycling issues were a concern for sure. all looks normal above.

Ok so

Ph is 7.8
No2 is 0
No3 is 0
Ammonia is 0

trmp is 26 Celsius

salinity is 1.020

 

[deepsynth]

I did take about an hour to acclimate them and they were swimming around happily.
I thought it maybe be the wave maker being too strong so I turned it off

there looks to be an small oily film on the surface and I have also brought the filter out to create more surface agitation

and he is gasping a bit. But he was gasping a little bit from the bag