Is this ich?(clownfish)

[efish]

I introduced this clownfish a week ago it came with these white marks that I thought were bite marks from the past tank it was in, idk if I'm being paranoid or this is full on ich, it is eating and doing everything normally.

 

[Weeb]

I see what appears to be a white spot on each side of the fish. Resolution not particularly as good as I'd like. It appears to be in a QT, and that's good. Monitor closely. Usually, Cryptocaryon irritans would have likely appeared as many spots in that week. Any other fish in that same tank have this problem?

Usually best to leave 'maybe hurt fish' with the fish store until it proves better, beyond a doubt.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

I introduced this clownfish a week ago it came with these white marks that I thought were bite marks from the past tank it was in, idk if I'm being paranoid or this is full on ich, it is eating and doing everything normally.

That isn’t ich, but that doesn’t mean ich might not develop at some point.
It does look like a minor scrape, but it could also be the start of another protozoan disease known as Brooklynella.
How is the fish set up? It looks to be in a quarantine or isolation system - if so, you should consider putting it through a preventative quarantine process.
Jay

 

[vetteguy53081]

I introduced this clownfish a week ago it came with these white marks that I thought were bite marks from the past tank it was in, idk if I'm being paranoid or this is full on ich, it is eating and doing everything normally.

A 4 second video is hard to do assessment but replaying a couple of times looks like brooklynella and not ich or crypto especially based on size of dots. The most significant sign is the amount of slime on its body. The thick mucus on its body is a second sign which is noticeable on the fish. This mucus generally starts at the facial area as well as gills and spreads across the body producing lesions as it progresses often confused with ich and can turn into secondary bacteria. Other symptoms will be lethargic behavior, refusing to eat and heavy breathing from the mucus.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
With the advanced stage of this- I recommend immediate quarantine of all inhabitants and leaving display without fish for 4-6 weeks.
A quarantine system if you dont have one can be as simple as a starter tank kit from walmart which has most of the essentials