Is this QT big enough for these 2-fish

ryshark

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I've never put new fish in a QT for precautionary purposes, until now. Apparently my luck of just going straight to the display tank with no QT, ran out. For my next batch of fish I plan to get a 2"-3" Whitetail Tang and a 2" Blue Hippo Tang.

Can they both go into a 20-Long QT together for 14-30 days? For biological filtration, all I have is a Aqueon 20 HOB rated for up to 30-gallons. Inside of the HOB filter I stuffed 9-bioballs. I already had a 3" Foxface and 2x clownfish in this QT with no ammonia issues for over 30-days. I took them out and then did a 100% water change and I'm now ready for my next group of fish to QT, in CopperSafe at the full recommended dosage.
 

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Yes, a 20 long will be fine. That is what I use for my QT, which is currently housing (4) fish, (3) of which are 2.5" - 3".
They've been in since 3/29.

As long as it's cycled, you will be fine.

the seachem ammonia badges work great for QT tanks.

my 20 long has a HOB filter and an airstone. I also have a sponge filter that can be added if necessary.
 

vetteguy53081

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I've never put new fish in a QT for precautionary purposes, until now. Apparently my luck of just going straight to the display tank with no QT, ran out. For my next batch of fish I plan to get a 2"-3" Whitetail Tang and a 2" Blue Hippo Tang.

Can they both go into a 20-Long QT together for 14-30 days? For biological filtration, all I have is a Aqueon 20 HOB rated for up to 30-gallons. Inside of the HOB filter I stuffed 9-bioballs. I already had a 3" Foxface and 2x clownfish in this QT with no ammonia issues for over 30-days. I took them out and then did a 100% water change and I'm now ready for my next group of fish to QT, in CopperSafe at the full recommended dosage.
Yes
Be sure to monitor ammonia levels with a reliable test kit
What are you using for Qt if any?
 
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ryshark

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Yes, a 20 long will be fine. That is what I use for my QT, which is currently housing (4) fish, (3) of which are 2.5" - 3".
They've been in since 3/29.

As long as it's cycled, you will be fine.

the seachem ammonia badges work great for QT tanks.

my 20 long has a HOB filter and an airstone. I also have a sponge filter that can be added if necessary.
Thanks. It is cycled, but I don’t know how much bacteria can grow on the 9x submerged bio-balls and the plastic thing that comes inside of the filter for bio. I will look into the seachem ammonia badges.
 

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Can you stuff some sponges into the HOB filter? I just use sponges and filter floss in my HOB. Its quick and easy to rinse out, or replace when necessary.

I keep the sponges, just rinsing them out, so that they house bacteria and keeps the tank cycled.
The floss gets changed routinely as it gets dirty, full of food/waste.
 

vetteguy53081

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You won’t get much bacteria established with quarantine in which you want to monitor your ammonia levels and change water as needed
Although not a necessity, some people will add copper or similar to cleanse any parasites or other preventative treatments
 
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Can you stuff some sponges into the HOB filter? I just use sponges and filter floss in my HOB. Its quick and easy to rinse out, or replace when necessary.

I keep the sponges, just rinsing them out, so that they house bacteria and keeps the tank cycled.
The floss gets changed routinely as it gets dirty, full of food/waste.
Maybe if I pull out the bio-balls, but those are already cycled.
 
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You won’t get much bacteria established with quarantine in which you want to monitor your ammonia levels and change water as needed
Although not a necessity, some people will add copper or similar to cleanse any parasites or other preventative treatments
I cycled the QT awhile ago. With the fish I just took out, 1x 3" foxface and 2x clownfish, I never had to do a water change and they were in the QT for over 30-days in copper.
I fully cycled the QT before adding the foxface and clownfish.

In order to fit the bio-balls in the filter I had to take out the mechanical/carbon filter. After I took out the foxface and clowns I rinsed the bio-balls and the plastic bio piece which comes in the Aqueon 20, in the tank water and a bunch of detritus/etc came off of them (since I had to mechanical filtration). I then put them back in the filter and made sure it had water in it to keep them wet and then drained the tank and refilled for a 100% water change.
 
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A couple of thoughts.

Regarding bio balls, foam filters or even poly fiber provide much more surface area to hold nitrifying bacteria than plastic balls. Additionally, foam or poly-fiber will trap detritus flowing through the filter. If the bio-balls have worked for you in the past, certainly use them if you prefer, but do monitor your ammonia.

I am hesitant to put two tangs in a 20 gallon QT. I've had problems doing so because they may not tolerate each other. I had a couple fight to the death.
So, be sure they have places to hide from each other in the QT and monitor closely for aggression.
 

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I am hesitant to put two tangs in a 20 gallon QT. I've had problems doing so because they may not tolerate each other. I had a couple fight to the death.
So, be sure they have places to hide from each other in the QT and monitor closely for aggression.
good point. I did not even realize we were talking about two tangs here. good catch.
if they wont' get along, you can add an egg crate divider if necessary.
 

Jay Hemdal

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A couple of thoughts.

Regarding bio balls, foam filters or even poly fiber provide much more surface area to hold nitrifying bacteria than plastic balls. Additionally, foam or poly-fiber will trap detritus flowing through the filter. If the bio-balls have worked for you in the past, certainly use them if you prefer, but do monitor your ammonia.

I am hesitant to put two tangs in a 20 gallon QT. I've had problems doing so because they may not tolerate each other. I had a couple fight to the death.
So, be sure they have places to hide from each other in the QT and monitor closely for aggression.

Good call - few people are aware that bioballs actually have very limited surface area for bacteria, and I agree that the tangs could fight.

Jay
 
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ryshark

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Good call - few people are aware that bioballs actually have very limited surface area for bacteria, and I agree that the tangs could fight.

Jay
I’ll avoid the 2-tangs at once and if I was smart I’d avoid the blue hippo entirely. In what order would you QT this stocking list? It’s for a 120 gallon.

-Foxface One Spot
-Clownfish ocellaris x2
-Whitetail bristletooth tang
-Blue Tang (I know I should avoid it)
-Royal gramma
-Resplendent Anthias x3 or
-Springer damsel
-Sixline wrasse

Foxface and clownfish were already QT’d together and are in the display.

Next group, you think the whitetail and royal gramma together?
 
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Jay Hemdal

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I’ll avoid the 2-tangs at once and if I was smart I’d avoid the blue hippo entirely. In what order would you QT this stocking list? It’s for a 120 gallon.

-Foxface One Spot
-Clownfish ocellaris x2
-Whitetail bristletooth tang
-Blue Tang (I know I should avoid it)
-Royal gramma
-Resplendent Anthias x3 or
-Springer damsel
-Sixline wrasse

Foxface and clownfish were already QT’d together and are in the display.

Next group the whitetail and royal gramma?
That sounds fine. I’m not a big fan of anthias - some species are pretty delicate and others may turn into males and fight. I haven’t worked with that species though…..
Jay
 

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92B268A5-1CFF-46A4-973A-98316F3AF15D.jpeg
 

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