I've never tested for alkalinity

[EricR]

4 month old, 37 gallon FOWLR (fish and inverts), no plans for any corals.

I've never tested for alkalinity, ever.
Why?
Because the API "Saltwater Master" test kit that I bought doesn't have that test.
I knew NOTHING (which isn't much less than I know now, but some).

Without getting into the complaints about the API tests (since they've served me well enough to this point and everything is healthy, in my perception), my questions are:

1. Should I test for alkalinity (fish/inverts only with no plans for corals)?
2. If so, which testers do people recommend? Is the Hanna digital checker worth it?

 

[fachatga]

If you don’t have corals you don’t need to test for alkalinity

 

[saltybees]

Questionable about not needing to test, inverts can definitely be affected by alk, but if you’re doing weekly water changes I wouldn’t be too concerned. Hanna digitals are good but annoying that the reagents are only 25 tests per bottle..Red Sea test kits are way cheaper and twice as many tests.

 

[PatW]

I use Hanna, Red Sea Pro and Salifert. They all seem to vary the same amount test to test. Salifert is the least expensive. But it does give a higher reading about .8 DKH than the others. But since we are generally more interested in changes in DKH than the exact value, it is fine.

 

[DebraLV]

That's really good to know. I learn so much from you guys and I was going to ask this same question as I have the API kit. My tank is small and I'm getting two clown fish, that's it.
But I was looking at an emerald crab at the LFS and I was thinking of one as a solo, clean up crew. I guess not, now as I have only have enough patience to sit thru the test kit and just testing ammonia and nitrate/nitrates. I lose patience with the PH test and I don't think I can handle an alkalinity test. The salinity test is a breeze with my hydrometer (Instant Ocean). It's been steady at 1.023 since I started it up 3 weeks ago.

I did read on here that once my tank is cycled, all I really need to do is weekly water changes, a strip test after that weekly and checking my HOB cartridge for a small tank. I have a 50 watt preset heater to 78 so that should hold steady when cold weather arrives.

Would it really "stuff" the tank if I put a crab in with such a small tank and a pair of clowns? I was just thinking I could just siphon the sand weekly when I do the water change. I did add a wavemaker to get the motion of da ocean, even though you guys said it's really not needed for a small tank, under 10 gallons. I will say it sure does add up. 10 bucks here, 20 bucks here on stuff, like equipment, sand, rock, etc. I really admire you guys with expert advice and your big tanks that are so beautiful. I know now, I will never upgrade. I'm skilled in freshwater with a pond running with koi (my water puppies) a 10 gallon tropical with Dayglo Tetras, and a 29 gallon with a pair of Red Parrot Cichlids.

A marine tank is a whole different animal I just wanted to try it out and have my own little piece of the ocean.

 

[fachatga]

Emerald crab is fine for a 20 gal with a few clowns. I love my emerald crabs

 

[DebraLV]

Emerald crab is fine for a 20 gal with a few clowns. I love my emerald crabs

You think that invert would be ok with an 8.5 gallon and two clowns. It would be cool to have a clean up guy in there.

 

[Pistondog]

Coralline will also consume alk, but water changes may handle it.

 

[EricR]

Yeah... thanks all for the info. I'm going to pick and buy an alkalinity tester based off the suggestions just so I at least have a reasonable idea, since I don't right now.

I assumed it wasn't necessary until reading more (mostly here on this site).

Biggest inverts I have are a chocolate chip starfish (maybe 4" wingspan) and a pink urchin (a little smaller than a racquetball). Starfish has been with us about 6 months (even made the leap up from smaller tanks twice) but the urchin is new.

 

[Fourstars]

Nice dob!

 

[EricR]

Nice dob!

Thanks .. My last build .. 22" f/3.26 home-made jobbie ... will try to figure out how to PM you a little more info

 

[EricR]

Questionable about not needing to test, inverts can definitely be affected by alk, but if you’re doing weekly water changes I wouldn’t be too concerned. Hanna digitals are good but annoying that the reagents are only 25 tests per bottle..Red Sea test kits are way cheaper and twice as many tests.

First ever alkalinity test with Red Sea pH/alk kit:
6 dKH

I guess that means I'm a little too LOW for most people's target.
Will have to start researching what (if anything) I should change.

I do 2 water changes per month, changing out about 7-8 gallons with each change.
It's a 37 gallon capacity tank but, as far as actual water content, I have no idea but just guessing maybe around 30-ish???
*so I think I'm doing roughly 25% water change every 2 weeks (ideally) or at least twice per month.

I'm due for a water change anyway so will probably monitor alkalinity right after water change vs. right before next,,, then start researching if I should be doing anything about low alk.

Extra babble:
Red Sea shows Ph = 7.8 which matches where I'm at on API kit now.
In cooler weather with windows open I was always in the low 8's.
Now we're in flippin' heat wave so house is closed with AC running all the time and that matches when pH started falling so I think I already know what's going on there but have decided to live with that unless some side-effect starts manifesting itself in the tank. (So far no issues)

 

[Danroo]

Didn’t really check alkalinity when my tank was FOWLR. Only test PH, Phosphates and nitrates everything was healthy. I did my test before I got my corals and everything was in acceptable range calcium being a bit low didn’t matter cause corals were softies. Barely did water changes.

 

[EricR]

Been monitoring alkalinity and PH (Red Sea test kit) before/after water change (about every 2 weeks) for 3 water changes now.

I'm always at:
Alkalinity = 6 dKH
pH = 8.2

Should I worry about low alkalinity and, if so, what should I do about it:
-- only fish inverts right now (including urchin and starfish)
-- eventually, although not any time soon, will be trying a couple of beginner soft corals like, maybe, GSP, Kenya Tree, or Xenia

 

[fcmatt]

Just do water changes. It is ok to run alk at 6-7. 7 is ocean water. I have corals in 6-7. It sometimes goes down to 6ish when I get lazy doing water changes or pouring in two part. But then again who knows. I don't test anymore and I have an acro approaching 10 inches wide. Stability is the key. Acan, monti, anemones, fish.. yada yada

People get in more trouble chasing a higher alk and then get lazy or mess up and crash it. Predictable losses.

Just make sure to test alk at fish store before leaving with coral. Most of the time they run lower too to save money. Don't drop a coral into alk at 7 when it was at the fish store at 10. U have to drip acclimate for hours before dropping in tank. At least hours. Well acro at least. If you don't want to shock the crap out of it.

If you start adding a ton of coral and go wild you will have a bad time tho. Specially sps. You kind of have to know your limits and test at first to know how much two part to add. Corralline algea growth is a tip. You watch it grow or recede. You need good lighting. All of this comes with time and learning. Testing will fade away as you grow to know your tank once u stop adding.

 

[attiland]

That's really good to know. I learn so much from you guys and I was going to ask this same question as I have the API kit. My tank is small and I'm getting two clown fish, that's it.
But I was looking at an emerald crab at the LFS and I was thinking of one as a solo, clean up crew. I guess not, now as I have only have enough patience to sit thru the test kit and just testing ammonia and nitrate/nitrates. I lose patience with the PH test and I don't think I can handle an alkalinity test. The salinity test is a breeze with my hydrometer (Instant Ocean). It's been steady at 1.023 since I started it up 3 weeks ago.

I did read on here that once my tank is cycled, all I really need to do is weekly water changes, a strip test after that weekly and checking my HOB cartridge for a small tank. I have a 50 watt preset heater to 78 so that should hold steady when cold weather arrives.

Would it really "stuff" the tank if I put a crab in with such a small tank and a pair of clowns? I was just thinking I could just siphon the sand weekly when I do the water change. I did add a wavemaker to get the motion of da ocean, even though you guys said it's really not needed for a small tank, under 10 gallons. I will say it sure does add up. 10 bucks here, 20 bucks here on stuff, like equipment, sand, rock, etc. I really admire you guys with expert advice and your big tanks that are so beautiful. I know now, I will never upgrade. I'm skilled in freshwater with a pond running with koi (my water puppies) a 10 gallon tropical with Dayglo Tetras, and a 29 gallon with a pair of Red Parrot Cichlids.

A marine tank is a whole different animal I just wanted to try it out and have my own little piece of the ocean.

While crabs and shrimps like a stable envelope for fish and snails I wouldn’t be bothered to keep alk in higher levels. They just don’t seems to care.
although if you want to see coralline grow on your rocks this will become somewhat important to keep alk/mg/Ca in the recommended levels.

Been monitoring alkalinity and PH (Red Sea test kit) before/after water change (about every 2 weeks) for 3 water changes now.

I'm always at:
Alkalinity = 6 dKH
pH = 8.2

Should I worry about low alkalinity and, if so, what should I do about it:
-- only fish inverts right now (including urchin and starfish)
-- eventually, although not any time soon, will be trying a couple of beginner soft corals like, maybe, GSP, Kenya Tree, or Xenia

Just like above. Corals will require steady levels of alkalinity/ magnesium/ calcium levels together with nitrate and phosphate levels in line. Once you want to start corals keep an eye on the parameters more. Till than water changes will do

I wouldn’t bother with ammonia test after cycle finished

 

[EricR]

...
I wouldn’t bother with ammonia test after cycle finished

What's an ammonia test?
Just Kidding. I used to test for ammonia/nitrite/nitrate right after I did a big tank size jump but,,, yeah,,, can't really remember the last time I cared.

I might actually try one of those ammonia alert badges when I go for a tank transfer that I have planned (at some point). Not sure if they actually work but at least they're cheap.

P.S. Thanks for the response

 

[EricR]

Update in case any other newbies (like me) find this.

Pretty sure my Red Sea pH/Alk kit has been reading alk 0.5+ dKH too low (or being misinterpreted that way).
Got a Hanna digital Alkalinity Checker (dKH) and also had LFS test. (LFS allegedly uses some Red Sea Pro kit, if I heard correctly).

First Hanna vs Red Sea compare at home (same water sample):
Hanna = 6.7 dKH
Home Red Sea = 6.0 dKH (consistent at this for months w/one 5.5 dKH reading recently)

…multiple home tests about 0.5+ dKH difference
*note — home Red Sea titration test has 0.5 dKH steps in reading points; 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, etc.

Home vs LFS compare (same water sample):
LFS test = 6.4 dKH
Home Hanna = 6.3 dKH
Home Red Sea = 5.5 dKH

I did one experiment with Baking Soda to raise alk in new saltwater to cause 0.5 dKH rise in tank alk during water change — worked perfectly as calculated so might start doing that during water changes.

Wondering if I should try Baked Baking Soda / Soda Ash / Sodium Carbonate to get a pH boost also but don’t want to go too crazy. (Usually at 8.0 pH but 7.8 during stretches of weather where windows have to be closed for days/weeks)

 

[Danroo]

Update in case any other newbies (like me) find this.

Pretty sure my Red Sea pH/Alk kit has been reading alk 0.5+ dKH too low (or being misinterpreted that way).
Got a Hanna digital Alkalinity Checker (dKH) and also had LFS test. (LFS allegedly uses some Red Sea Pro kit, if I heard correctly).

First Hanna vs Red Sea compare at home (same water sample):
Hanna = 6.7 dKH
Home Red Sea = 6.0 dKH (consistent at this for months w/one 5.5 dKH reading recently)

…multiple home tests about 0.5+ dKH difference
*note — home Red Sea titration test has 0.5 dKH steps in reading points; 5.5, 6.0, 6.5, etc.

Home vs LFS compare (same water sample):
LFS test = 6.4 dKH
Home Hanna = 6.3 dKH
Home Red Sea = 5.5 dKH

I did one experiment with Baking Soda to raise alk in new saltwater to cause 0.5 dKH rise in tank alk during water change — worked perfectly as calculated so might start doing that during water changes.

Wondering if I should try Baked Baking Soda / Soda Ash / Sodium Carbonate to get a pH boost also but don’t want to go too crazy. (Usually at 8.0 pH but 7.8 during stretches of weather where windows have to be closed for days/weeks)

I’m also dealing with low alkalinity didn’t fix the issue on multiple water changes in a week until I mixed two tablespoon of baking soda in a 5 gallon bucket. Dose one cup every other day when alkalinity drops. Goes from 7.7 to 8.6 instantly. I’m not gonna be doing this a lot so I just got a higher alkalinity salt now.

 

[EricR]

I’m also dealing with low alkalinity didn’t fix the issue on multiple water changes in a week until I mixed two tablespoon of baking soda in a 5 gallon bucket. Dose one cup every other day when alkalinity drops. Goes from 7.7 to 8.6 instantly. I’m not gonna be doing this a lot so I just got a higher alkalinity salt now.

EDIT <<<deleted what I just posted>>>-- think I misread your post and was thinking you meant massive tank alk jump,,, but now I think the 7.7 to 8.6 instant jump was just in the bucket,,, that you later do small doses from ... so never mind