inetjnky
Well-Known Member
Wow it’s been awhile since I’ve updated… a lot has been accomplished in the meantime…
All the electrical has been completed in the fish room and under the stairs in my mixing closet.
I have a full Apex setup running the heart of the system. In the mixing room under the stairs I have an EB8, PM1, FMM (high and low optical sensors and leak detection sensors), and BoB connected to the Head unit to control refilling the top off barrel and the salt mixing barrels. It also runs the mixing pump and powers the Versa (salt), Versa (kalk), and cheap $10 dosing head (fresh) for adding fresh water for ATO and Kalk Stirrer and new salt water to the sump.
i also removed the Avast Marine solenoids I was using to turn the water from the RODI off to both barrels and replaced them with US Solid stainless steel ball valves which are low power and can be powered on safely for long periods of time without any worry of them burning up. Definitely a better choice then a solenoid valve. I also added one before the RODI unit to turn the water supply off to the RODI unit when no water is being requested by either barrel. I added an EB4 at the RODI unit to power that ball valve as well as the auto flush kit so it’s not constantly powered when no water is running through it.
In the fish room i have two dedicated 20amp circuits powering the heart of the fish room. I’ve mounted two EB832s, one in each 20a circuit to power the return pumps, dual Versa pumps for AWC and Calcium Reactor, the skimmer, the Varios 8 internal return pump for providing flow to a manifold, refugium, and through a Lifegard 90w 3” UV that dumps back into the 60g frag tank. An FMM module has optical sensors attached for high and low sensors for water level in the sump along with a leak detector outside the sump and a 1” flow sensor on the output side of the UV to monitor flow through the UV. There’s a Kessil h160 refugium light hanging above the refugium for macro algae. Inside the refugium are 4 large 8x8x4” marine pure plates and two brightwell bricks along with some large and small ARM media to fill in some gaps at the bottom. For heating i went with two EB4s split across the dual 20a circuits with dual Ranco controllers connected to two EB4s. Connected to the controllers are dual Finnex Titanium 500w heaters. They’re doing a fantastic job keeping up temp, even in the winter months. Was happy to see this. I was worried since I’ll be pushing the limits of the 20a circuits and don’t want to go over 16a on either one. Over the 48x24x12 frag tank I have another EB4 that is powering dual Ecotech Radion XR30 G5 Pros and a single Ecotech Marine Vortech MP60 for flow. I went with the MP60 but dialed it down due to the 3/4” acrylic wall thickness. On this panel I also have a BoB (push buttons for emergency shut off, skimmer maintenance, and turn off the Varios 8 pump for feeding in the frag tank. There’s also a PM1 for monitor temp and PH in the frag tank where I have the probes sitting in the overflow. In the sump itself I have a temp prob downstream of the heaters and a salinity monitor both connected to the head unit. For the main return to the display upstairs, I have a pair of Iwaki MD-100RLT pumps. The frag tank has been laced with ARM media on the bottom for astetics as well as bacteria colonization. Four frag racks not pictured were purchased from Building an Obsession for a nice clean look and feel.
All the electrical has been completed in the fish room and under the stairs in my mixing closet.
I have a full Apex setup running the heart of the system. In the mixing room under the stairs I have an EB8, PM1, FMM (high and low optical sensors and leak detection sensors), and BoB connected to the Head unit to control refilling the top off barrel and the salt mixing barrels. It also runs the mixing pump and powers the Versa (salt), Versa (kalk), and cheap $10 dosing head (fresh) for adding fresh water for ATO and Kalk Stirrer and new salt water to the sump.
i also removed the Avast Marine solenoids I was using to turn the water from the RODI off to both barrels and replaced them with US Solid stainless steel ball valves which are low power and can be powered on safely for long periods of time without any worry of them burning up. Definitely a better choice then a solenoid valve. I also added one before the RODI unit to turn the water supply off to the RODI unit when no water is being requested by either barrel. I added an EB4 at the RODI unit to power that ball valve as well as the auto flush kit so it’s not constantly powered when no water is running through it.
In the fish room i have two dedicated 20amp circuits powering the heart of the fish room. I’ve mounted two EB832s, one in each 20a circuit to power the return pumps, dual Versa pumps for AWC and Calcium Reactor, the skimmer, the Varios 8 internal return pump for providing flow to a manifold, refugium, and through a Lifegard 90w 3” UV that dumps back into the 60g frag tank. An FMM module has optical sensors attached for high and low sensors for water level in the sump along with a leak detector outside the sump and a 1” flow sensor on the output side of the UV to monitor flow through the UV. There’s a Kessil h160 refugium light hanging above the refugium for macro algae. Inside the refugium are 4 large 8x8x4” marine pure plates and two brightwell bricks along with some large and small ARM media to fill in some gaps at the bottom. For heating i went with two EB4s split across the dual 20a circuits with dual Ranco controllers connected to two EB4s. Connected to the controllers are dual Finnex Titanium 500w heaters. They’re doing a fantastic job keeping up temp, even in the winter months. Was happy to see this. I was worried since I’ll be pushing the limits of the 20a circuits and don’t want to go over 16a on either one. Over the 48x24x12 frag tank I have another EB4 that is powering dual Ecotech Radion XR30 G5 Pros and a single Ecotech Marine Vortech MP60 for flow. I went with the MP60 but dialed it down due to the 3/4” acrylic wall thickness. On this panel I also have a BoB (push buttons for emergency shut off, skimmer maintenance, and turn off the Varios 8 pump for feeding in the frag tank. There’s also a PM1 for monitor temp and PH in the frag tank where I have the probes sitting in the overflow. In the sump itself I have a temp prob downstream of the heaters and a salinity monitor both connected to the head unit. For the main return to the display upstairs, I have a pair of Iwaki MD-100RLT pumps. The frag tank has been laced with ARM media on the bottom for astetics as well as bacteria colonization. Four frag racks not pictured were purchased from Building an Obsession for a nice clean look and feel.
