JCOLE's ACRO Dominant Build

[JCOLE]

Plumbing is 95% complete and stand has first coat of primer on. Hopefully, I will be able to start on top coat today.

 

[JCOLE]

2nd coat is done and cheers to my back!

Tank goes in on Sunday!

 

[Dierks]

2nd coat is done and cheers to my back!

Tank goes in on Sunday!

Looking super nice buddy!

 

[JCOLE]

Looking super nice buddy!

Thanks man! Definitely a labor of love.

 

[Dierks]

Thanks man! Definitely a labor of love.

Oh I know!

I cant wait for you to start having to many fuzzy sticks so you can send them to me! Also, after the last non-sense with the last tank it has to feel really nice to be starting fresh. I was really close to restarting the office tank but I think I am finally happy with the direction it is headed.

I do have the new FisHotel 125 that I think I might start on next week or maybe this weekend.

 

[JCOLE]

I posted a thread about this but figured I should post it here as well incase anyone sees this and has ideas.

Looking for ideas and recommendations for a rectangle reservoir for the side of my sump. The purpose is so I can monitor the water level with a float switch while keeping a lot of flow in my sump.

Any ideas or recommendations for a reservoir or setup?

 

[dieselkeeper]

Float switch is for ATO?

 

[JCOLE]

Float switch is for ATO?

Yes. I plan on creating a tidal wave so no detritus accumulates and I need a spot for the float switch to stay calm.

Thinking of maybe putting a cylinder in the sump instead.

 

[dieselkeeper]

Are you planning to get rid of the filter sock? Are you going bare bottom in the display tank? With a tidal wave? If not, the detritus that is stirred up in the sump will make its way to the display and accumulate there.

 

[Smite]

I think the wave action might be tough with a sensor but what if you place the sensor in a large piece of PVC that's mounted vertically to the side of your bin? I wonder if a high flow sponge/filter material cut to fit the bottom could steady the water flow while also keeping critters from blocking the sensor//float switch?

EDIT:
Doh, just saw your last post. I think that'd work great

 

[jhuntstl]

2nd coat is done and cheers to my back!

Tank goes in on Sunday!

Man, looking great! Got more pics of the plumbing?

Yes. I plan on creating a tidal wave so no detritus accumulates and I need a spot for the float switch to stay calm.

Thinking of maybe putting a cylinder in the sump instead.

You mean like a Carlson surge device?

 

[JCOLE]

Are you planning to get rid of the filter sock? Are you going bare bottom in the display tank? With a tidal wave? If not, the detritus that is stirred up in the sump will make its way to the display and accumulate there.

The filter sock that is shown in the picture is just temporary as it is connecting the existing system with this sump. I will remove all of that as I have (4) 1.5" drains coming into the sump. My plan is to have either a sock for each drain or plumb (2) drains into (1) sock.

I was originally going to go sand and crushed coral but now I am going to go with bare bottom. With it being a peninsula, I think bare bottom is the best option for flow.

I want to keep flow really moving in the sump to help with the detritus and also temperature. I plan on having a big fan pointing down onto the water in the sump. With Halides/T5's, I will need all the help I can get.

 

[JCOLE]

I think the wave action might be tough with a sensor but what if you place the sensor in a large piece of PVC that's mounted vertically to the side of your bin? I wonder if a high flow sponge/filter material cut to fit the bottom could steady the water flow while also keeping critters from blocking the sensor//float switch?

EDIT:
Doh, just saw your last post. I think that'd work great

Great minds think alike! I think that sounds like the route to take. Now I just need to come up with something and a good way of installing it. Any ideas?

I was thinking of installing a 3-4" pipe maybe a foot long. This way I can still access the float switch near the top. I was just going to put an end cap at both ends and drill holes into them. a sponge filter is a good idea also. Maybe mount the pipe to the sump with plastic pipe straps and nylon screws?

 

[JCOLE]

Man, looking great! Got more pics of the plumbing?

You mean like a Carlson surge device?

Thanks. I will try and take some pictures of the plumbing tonight. I really took my time with it on this build. This go around I Chamfered/Sanded every cut and primed before using glue. Took a lot longer but is going to be worth it in the end.

No. It was more figuratively speaking than anything. I plan to have at least (4) powerheads and (2) gyres in the sump running at full speed 24/7.

 

[Smite]

Got any scrap acrylic? Maybe a heat gun and bend a piece of acrylic as a mounting hook for the lip of the bin to mount to, so you don't have to drill your tub?

Not sure if ABS plastic fittings are safe for reef use? Maybe like a ABS 3" WYE fitting that has a reduced off shoot? Maybe a 3" fitting with a 1.5" offshoot. So you'd add a piece of 1.5" straight pipe to get to the drywall, to say a 45 degree elbow to a straight piece of 1.5" up the drywall . Then strap with 2 x 1.5" two hole straps. That would be secure, no holes in the bin or screws in the water. A heat gun and you could probably make a flat spot in the fitting for your magnet if that's how your ato sensor/switch mounts. I guess that would require your outside ATO magnet to be submersible as well but that might be the case regardless with the thickness of bin+pipe.
This offshoot looks like it's a 45, you'll just want to match whatever it is with a fitting to keep the whole thing level if you go that route.

 

[JCOLE]

Got any scrap acrylic? Maybe a heat gun and bend a piece of acrylic as a mounting hook for the lip of the bin to mount to, so you don't have to drill your tub?

Not sure if ABS plastic fittings are safe for reef use? Maybe like a ABS 3" WYE fitting that has a reduced off shoot? Maybe a 3" fitting with a 1.5" offshoot. So you'd add a piece of 1.5" straight pipe to get to the drywall, to say a 45 degree elbow to a straight piece of 1.5" up the drywall . Then strap with 2 x 1.5" two hole straps. That would be secure, no holes in the bin or screws in the water. A heat gun and you could probably make a flat spot in the fitting for your magnet if that's how your ato sensor/switch mounts. I guess that would require your outside ATO magnet to be submersible as well but that might be the case regardless with the thickness of bin+pipe.
This offshoot looks like it's a 45, you'll just want to match whatever it is with a fitting to keep the whole thing level if you go that route.

I actually order 4 pieces of acrylic earlier. I was going to make a 3 sided dam to go around a floatswitch. I was going to silicone it to the tank. I think that would work.

If that doesn't work then the WYE is a good idea also. I can make that work for sure if the acrylic doesn't turn out good.

I was also looking at these RV water resevoirs also. This one is 39" tall which is perfect. I would cut off the top of it to make it accessible. Wonder if it's reef safe?

A.A 21 Gallon RV Fresh/Gray Water Tank 39" x 16" x 8" - BPA Free (21 Gallon) https://a.co/d/hucU4xV

 

[Smite]

That's a good question. It states freshwater tank for RV, so I'd think it would be good for a reef. Might be worth asking if it's rated for potable water?

How do you think your skimmer will fair with the wave motion?

 

[JCOLE]

That's a good question. It states freshwater tank for RV, so I'd think it would be good for a reef. Might be worth asking if it's rated for potable water?

How do you think your skimmer will fair with the wave motion?

Should be fine. It won't be a wave. I might have exaggerated a little bit on that one. I plan on keeping my (4) powerheads mounted clockwise to keep the water moving in a circular fashion. I will put a gyre on both ends facing outward to help keep the center moving as well. I just know that will cause chaos on a float switch.

My skimmer is a venturi driven skimmer. It will be mounted on a stand in the sump out of the water so that shouldn't be an issue. I have another skimmer I planned on using as well which is a Reef Octopus 250-INT. It is mounted in the water and could be an issue. If that becomes an issue then I might upgrade to the EXT version.

 

[Eagle_Steve]

Should be fine. It won't be a wave. I might have exaggerated a little bit on that one. I plan on keeping my (4) powerheads mounted clockwise to keep the water moving in a circular fashion. I will put a gyre on both ends facing outward to help keep the center moving as well. I just know that will cause chaos on a float switch.

My skimmer is a venturi driven skimmer. It will be mounted on a stand in the sump out of the water so that shouldn't be an issue. I have another skimmer I planned on using as well which is a Reef Octopus 250-INT. It is mounted in the water and could be an issue. If that becomes an issue then I might upgrade to the EXT version.

You won't have to worry about the reef octo INT, Mine works fine with a 1" or so "wave" in my sump for the mangrove lagoon. I just set it to a semi-dry skim and it skims just a hair wetter than it would in a calm sump.

 

[JCOLE]

Found a good source for my lower pH issues. After Cipro, I am able to monitor pH better. Things such as fresh air, etc actually help and make a difference with the pH now. I have noticed over the last couple of weeks that my pH will drop randomly all of sudden and I found the source.

The water heater is in the garage with the sumps, etc. When the fire kicks on to heat the tank it must be putting off an excessive amount of CO2 and leaking out into the garage. My pH dipped a full .10 this morning while taking a shower. I have a dilemma. Either fix this issue or stop taking showers.....