Just a few tips and tricks for those new to SPS and reefing....

Discussion in 'General SPS Discussion' started by SunnyX, Apr 2, 2010.

  1. Bryce Peterson

    Bryce Peterson Well-Known Member R2R Supporter

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    This is great advice. I learned most of these things the hard way. I just spoke to a person about getting into the hobby. I told him the first thing he needs to do is join Reef2Reef :)
     
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  2. blackgate

    blackgate Well-Known Member

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    Lots of great info in this thread!
     
  3. SunnyX

    SunnyX Bonsai Reefer R2R Supporter Reef Spotlight Award

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    Yes, unfortunately most lessons will need to be learned the hard way. We can help them avoid many mistakes but many of us will need to walk the path and learn from our mistakes and observations. We are happy to help so please send the new hobbyists our way.
     
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  4. TurtleVaglivielo

    TurtleVaglivielo Member

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    following!
     
  5. terri_ann

    terri_ann Well-Known Member

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    @ Harold Green, you are so correct! Oxygen is critical in every tank for many reasons! All my systems have a bubbler located at the return pump intake. I run the bubbler at night when lights are out and literally bombard the tank with micro/nano bubbles! Try it, you'll love it!
     
  6. Fishinwall

    Fishinwall Well-Known Member

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    11. Combat Chronically Low Ph. A simple method for combating low Ph is to run a refugium on a reverse light cycle. The added benefit of this is that you will also be reducing P04 levels. The refugium lights should come on 30 minutes after the main system lights have gone off. The refugium lighting should run for the duration of the night, and turn off 30 minutes before the sun rises on your reef.

    Does it matter that the lights come on after the display lights go out and turn off before they come on, or just that they run overnight?
     
  7. SunnyX

    SunnyX Bonsai Reefer R2R Supporter Reef Spotlight Award

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    Hello,

    No, it does not matter if the light is turned off after the main lights come on. Some reefers run a 24 hour light cycle over their refugium.
     
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  8. fragit

    fragit Well-Known Member Build Thread Contributor

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    @SunnyX in the beginning of this thread it was mentioned that you are going to be selling/creating for sale some SPS husbandry products. What up with that? And what are your thoughts on zeovit and aquaforest?
     
  9. SunnyX

    SunnyX Bonsai Reefer R2R Supporter Reef Spotlight Award

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    Hello,

    At the time I was looking into some options on dosing products, with a few people showing me some products they were interested in developing. I looked into the matter but ultimately it fell on the back burner due to health issues and other obligations.

    I've never tried or heard of Aquaforest until now, so I cant comment on the brand. I have used Zeovit products in the past with good results, mainly the Sponge Power and ZeoZyme, and Coral Snow.

    If I were to pass recommendation now I would say save your money and do not waste it on unneeded additives. The base of my dosing is Reef Crystals salt, Lugol's Solution, Microbacter7 and a carbon source such as vodka/vinegar. While carbon dosing works well it is not for everyone as you really need to know what youre doing, otherwise you will starve your corals and end up with Cyano issues, perhaps even Dino's. When carbon dosing you will also need to add quite a bit of food, be it fish food or an additive such as prodibio Reef Booster in order to keep the corals well fed.

    Other than what I described as being dosed in my systems I don't believe that you really need any other additives. Yes, some additives will help increase growth and color but I find that they are simply not worth the added cost. the only thing I would never do without in the bacteria and Lugol's Solution. I have been dosing both of these for many years with great results. If you do decide to go down the carbon dosing method have a look HERE. Be sure to start slowly and follow all recommendations and procedures. Carbon dosing has done wonders for many reef aquariums, it has also caused many issues so beware of the dangers.

    As a final note I'd like to say that I noticed great growth and overall coral health when I dosed Prodibio Reef Booster. My corals would instantly perk up and I had amazing growth. Here is a shot of my old 100gl Rimless Reef 1.0. That is about a year of growth from the initial setup. I was dosing vodka, Lugol's Solution, MB7, and Reef Booster at the time. The growth and color were tremendous.


    12-13 months of growth:

    [​IMG]


    Thank you,

    -Sonny
     
  10. las

    las Well-Known Member

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    What's in the prodibio reef booster that helps SPS?
     
  11. SunnyX

    SunnyX Bonsai Reefer R2R Supporter Reef Spotlight Award

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    Amino Acids, Lipids, and other nutrients. Its not really something that's needed but I notice a change in my corals when dosing it. I haven't dosed it in years and now simply have a higher bioload of fish. Personally, I rather go the route of an increased bioload of fish and feed them more food as its much more enjoyable than dosing vials of fat into the reef. :D
     
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  12. Salty1962

    Salty1962 Wrasse and SPS Lover R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor Partner Member 2018

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    Great information for new and old Salty's. Thx for the time to put together!
     
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  13. reeferbuddy215

    reeferbuddy215 Well-Known Member

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    Wow alot of awesome tips, I also prefer having a higher bioload and I just feed my sps corals acropower by two little fishes zoeplankton, cyclops, lugoils iodine solution, amd I add red sea foundations abc+ all in one powder but I test before adding to keep my levels stable but my sps corals are growing faster then I was hoping which is always awesome.
     
  14. Goubli

    Goubli Active Member

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    So, I'm planning to go sps for the first time and am trying to figure out my strategy. Currently, I think I'm gonna try and get close to fully stocking my fish load before I add any sps. I've already got most of them and my setup has been running for 2 months. I'm still dealing with some algae and low pH issues.

    I suspect my algae is from some dry pukani leakage even though I tub cured it with the phosphate binder over two months. I suspect I'll have to set up a GFO which is annoying. I've added CO2 absorber along the intake line of my skimmer which helps the pH, but it exhausts pretty quickly, so I am now hoping maybe I can get the ALK up as it hanging around 7 seems to be too low for my system to buffer. I'm not sure if it is more related to the newness of the tank or just my system. The pH varies between 7.7-7.9, and I've never been able to get it up to 8. I don't feel as bad about it after seeing Sanjay's tank staying at the same pH. Still, I'd prefer it higher.

    Anyway, I'd like to try and get the water stable and algae free and at least have some coralline rocking before attempting to add corals. I'm figuring if I can keep things stable for a month with most of my bio load already existing then I will add sps. I am planning to try and add as many of the corals as I can at once so I can deal with the acclimation at once and then place them and wait. Is this a good strategy?

    I plan on using B-ionic two part with my liter meter as my next step. Thoughts?
     
  15. Bow69

    Bow69 Member

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    Great tips. I'm fairly new to the hobby. Been in about a year now. I have just set up a 90 and I am leaning towards a SPS dominant tank.
    When you say keep a 25% saltwater mix on hand do you mean actual premixed saltwater ? If you heat that and keep it circulated will it last? Is this what you pull from for normal water changes ? Then if yes, do you just mix up more and add it back to the pre mixed 25%?
     
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  16. prsnlty

    prsnlty Jackie R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Reef Squad Build Thread Contributor

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    The refers to a container of fresh sw mix for emergencies. Not mixed with old sw. Don't heat it until you're ready to use it and no need for a powerhead to circulate it once it's mixed. If you haven't needed to use it by the time you need to do a water change then use it for your water change but make up another afterwards just in case you need it before the next water change. Accidents happen and that's why we need to keep it on hand and ready to go.
     
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  17. kevensquint

    kevensquint Well-Known Member

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    Nevermind the carbon. Only in an exceptional situation have I ever used it. My tanks are as good as any top tanks w/o it.
     
  18. Chiefmaster30

    Chiefmaster30 Well-Known Member

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    These montis[​IMG] are starting to encrust a little on my frag rack. I would like to move them to a better location. Is there a way I can remove these from my frag rack without harming them? [​IMG]
    Does the white ring around the outside edge mean that it’s growing?
     
  19. EriksOasis

    EriksOasis Well-Known Member

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    They look great! The white ring around the edges is new growth. Maybe take a blade and try and scrape underneath them to pull them up off the rack.
     
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