Kattz's 400 Stand-alone and Fish Room

[mixer911]

That works! Just wanted you to know as I know exactly what those will do. It doesn't take much for those neodymium magnets to explode.

 

[kattz]

OK, so... we've reached a decision point. Need opinions and suggestions.

Originally, I planned on using the 300DD overflow and return openings in the bottom of the tank to use as four returns only and I had intended to drill the tank and use a ghost or other type of overflow on the ends.

My spouse uses a walker and a wheelchair and does not want anything hanging on the ends of the tank so she can see in as well as eliminate the possible damage and safety issue to the return piping by falling into it.

We still want to shadowbox the rear of the tank to give it that "goes on and on and on" look. So, that means I have to leave the corner overflows in place. Grrr....

Soliciting input and suggestions here.

Thanks,

Kev

 

[mixer911]

Safety and DW first! Build Dursos and it will be pretty quiet on the stock overflows.

 

[kattz]

Thanks, Rick. I agree, but I'm stuck with the ugly corner overflows. Of course, now I have four of your overflows that I need to sell.

Kev

 

[kattz]

So, been doing some design work for the sump builder. This design is almost final, and I will have to draw the 'fuge separately, as it's not part of the sump.

 

[aquavista99]

That is one amazing sump!!!

 

[ScottW]

Very nice indeed!

 

[kattz]

For those who are new to the hobby or don't know, a sump is not a sump is not a sump.

Five basic functions of the sump:

1. Add to the total water volume - this is huge, as the more water you have, the less sensitive to change the system becomes. Adds stability.
2. Provide a "settle out" point for detritus
3. Filter and polish the water, and add surface area for the exchange of gases
   
4. Heat, cool, and condition the water through heaters, chillers, and dosing - dosing away from the DT is always preferable. Grow pods, turf algae, and remove P04/N03.
5. House all of that equipment you don't want in the DT.

If you don't use a sump, add one, even to a biocube.

This sump design above is specifically designed for maximum efficiency. It does everything above, will provide for all of the subsystems, auto water changes, more efficient temperature control, and so forth. Without the reactor canisters, it is 24" wide, and 58" long with a height of 22". Normal water depth is 7.5". Panels are removable to completely clean out the sump.

If anyone is interested, I'd be happy to explain the various functions.

Kev

 

[kattz]

I'd like to thank my good friend Tim for an excellent deal on 200-250 pounds of Marco dry rock for the project. Thanks, buddy!

Kevin

 

[kattz]

 

[aquavista99]

Very nice!!!

 

[kattz]

So the project is ON HOLD.;Rage

Lighting has been the show stopper. I had been planning on using a 6' Hamilton Cebu Sun fixture with digital ballasts from Reef Brite. However, the future of MH in the US is dim (no pun intended) due to "green" issues.

Meanwhile, Philips came out with the CoralCare LEDs and I waited for a US release. Nothing. Contacted Philips, no plans for moving to US in the forseeable future according to them.

So not sure what to get for lighting. Waiting on the next real lighting innovation. Or a change in the market for MH.

 

[hatfielj]

Go with T5's and Reefbrite blues. That's pretty much all Jason Fox runs and I've run this in the past with great results as well. You don't need to wait for "next real lighting innovation." That's kind of crazy

 

[kattz]

I hear ya, but how would you configure those T5's? That's where my thought process fails me. The 300DD basically is made up of three 22 X 34" openings. So I was going to use one CoralCare module for each bay.

Now, I've had great results with ATI dimmable Sun Power units and a 90g LPS/SPS mixed reef. So I considered 3 of:
- a 6 bulb 24" unit
- a 8 bulb 24" unit
- a 6 bulb 36" unit
- a 8 bulb 36" unit.

Bulb change $ annually... yowza.

This is because you can only get 60" T5 bulbs and the tank is 72".

OR

One 72" Cebu Sun with 3 250w or 3 400w MH bulbs, the 60" X 4 T5's, and Reef Brite blues.

OR

Three 24" Cebu Sun with one 250w or 400w, the four 24" T5's in each one, and Reef Brite blues.

A friend has the 24" Reef Brite units. Too expensive for me for what they are, although they look great.

 

[Alexander serrano]

Following

 

[kattz]

Also, I've been communicating with d2mini over the past two or three years and I really admire his fish room. Mine will be similar to his. Hey, why change a good thing?

 

[Lazys Coral House]

All lighting works well, LED, MH, T5. There are pros and cons to each but in the end; its the reefer that really makes the difference.

 

[FoD]

I'm running T5 and LED combo over my 250dd. I'm using 48" T5's. You could go 60". The LEDs I just did are from RapidLED. COB arrays. Basically like 4 Kessils (actinic only). Cost me less than $300 for all the LED. I'll get pics for you later tonight when I get home, if you'd like.

 

[hatfielj]

You could just do a 60" T5 fixture and just accept that there will be slight shadow from the bracing. Supplement with 2 reefbrite blues . That would be plenty of light on that tank and would look great.

 

[Toomnymods]

I went with a 72" giesmann infinity fixture which uses 3 250 watt hqi 14k phoenix bulbs and 4 80 watt t-5's the look is amazing not a single shadow in the tank..