Keep losing fish?

eman79

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Hi,

New to the forum here. I have had my Red Sea Reefer 250 up and running since January 2020. I have been loosing fish after 2-3 months each time I have introduced them. I test my water weekly to ensure my levels are in line. I did have an Ich issue 1 time and Velvet issue 1 time in which I have let the tank cycle with out any fish for 5 weeks each time to let the Ich/velvet cycle out. I recently started to quarantine my fish on this last go around. I quarantined 2 clown fish for 30 days with copper treatment for 14 of those days. I then repeated the process when I purchased a Khole Tang. The 2 clowns and Khole Tang were in my main tank as follows, Clowns 2 months and the Khole Tang 1 month. Khole Tang went missing within 24 hrs 2 weeks ago. I searched my aqua scape and didn't find him anywhere? Keep in mind within 24 hrs gone, I can only assume my cleaning crew went to work. Last week I lost both clown fish. No signs of disease or illness. All 3 where eating and showed no signs of any concerns. I have a Foxface and Coral Beauty in quarantine right now for the past 5 weeks and they are healthy and eating. Not sure where to go from here. Any help or feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks for your time all!
 

gentlefish

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I am sorry for your experience. That’s a lot of information and yet a broad question. Especially nowadays I do not find that new fish are as hardy and healthy than back in the days.
Copper 14 days only works if you have a secondary QT tank and observe for another 30 days. You would have to run the timeline here if you are convinced about the absence of ich and velvet.
35 days fallow is to short to guarantee absence of ich and velvet in the DT.
Your Kole can not possibly die of ich or velvet within 24 hours of possible exposure to a parasite.
How are inverts doing? How are corals doing? Is it “just” the fish affected? Is there a possiblity of external toxins? (Air freshener/fragrance/combustion)? Any reason to believe in O2 deficiency? Did you start with dry rock (hitchhiker?)
 
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eman79

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I am sorry for your experience. That’s a lot of information and yet a broad question. Especially nowadays I do not find that new fish are as hardy and healthy than back in the days.
Copper 14 days only works if you have a secondary QT tank and observe for another 30 days. You would have to run the timeline here if you are convinced about the absence of ich and velvet.
35 days fallow is to short to guarantee absence of ich and velvet in the DT.
Your Kole can not possibly die of ich or velvet within 24 hours of possible exposure to a parasite.
How are inverts doing? How are corals doing? Is it “just” the fish affected? Is there a possiblity of external toxins? (Air freshener/fragrance/combustion)? Any reason to believe in O2 deficiency? Did you start with dry rock (hitchhiker?)
Thank you for your reply. I wasn't aware based on research that the 30 day cycle would be to short of a time frame to guarantee absence of ich and velvet. This is good info to know! Inverts are doing great no issues at all. The small coral frags I have are fine, no issues. Recently introduced those frags a month ago after treating and quarantining them for 30 days in a separate QT tank (Fishless). Once in a while I have used Frebreze in my home when I clean. I avoid spraying near my tank when used. 02 is a good question, any recommendations on how to test for this? I have an MP40 in my tank. I started with dry rock purchased from BulkReef Supply.
 
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eman79

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5 weeks fallow is half the recommended time for parasites.
72-76 days is the documented time, not to say the cycle is not broken earlier.
Some strains are more resistant.
Thanks for your reply. I was unaware the recommended time was 72-76 days based on what I have researched. Good to know now.
 

tripdad

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Observe the tank at night, in the dark with a red light. Maybe place a bait on the bottom. You never answered if this was a dry rock start or live rock start so I'm assuming a live rock start. 24 hours seems way to quick to be disease related death.
 

New&no clue

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another thought, have you had your water sent out to be tested. There could be something in there that wouldn't show up on a regular test. What about stray voltage, have you checked that and do you have a grounding probe in your tank?
 

Tom Giddens

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Observe the tank at night, in the dark with a red light. Maybe place a bait on the bottom. You never answered if this was a dry rock start or live rock start so I'm assuming a live rock start. 24 hours seems way to quick to be disease related death.
He said dry rock from BRS
 

gentlefish

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Missed it, thanks.
O2 can be tested via Apex probe. But I would not go that far. I look for O2 depletion. Medication, dinoflagellates, extremes in bioload and extreme temperature and if the waterfall/skimmer allow for introduction of O2. Two thumbs up on aforementioned ICP testing and ground probe (just connects your water to the ground wire of the electric outlet).
Fish disease still makes it on the list. Most fish will show behavioural changes or body changes prior to their passing.
Toxins may affect more than just your fish. If you run carbon the risk here may be lower (maybe higher risk for HLLE).
 
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eman79

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Observe the tank at night, in the dark with a red light. Maybe place a bait on the bottom. You never answered if this was a dry rock start or live rock start so I'm assuming a live rock start. 24 hours seems way to quick to be disease related death.
Dry rock start from the start. I agree 24 hrs for a disease doesn't make sense. Thanks for the feedback!
 
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eman79

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another thought, have you had your water sent out to be tested. There could be something in there that wouldn't show up on a regular test. What about stray voltage, have you checked that and do you have a grounding probe in your tank?
Thanks, no voltage issues. Any recommendations on testing companies?
 
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eman79

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I went with ATI because you test both your salt and RODI water.
Ok, big thanks. I just ordered an ATI kit. Look forward to seeing what they come back with. Until then I will be keeping my other 2 fish in quarantine.
 

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