Kole tang looks faded and white

Jason_Mack · May 3, 2021

Hello. I may be over reacting, but hopefully someone can help. I woke up Sunday (yesterday) morning to find my French angel laying dead on the bed of my tank (yep that sucked and the kids were just as sad). Now I think my Kole tang looks faded and has white spots. I have treated it for Ick before but the white spots don't look exactly like ick. I do think my cow fish has ick and just last night I set up a quarantine tank. If I can catch the Maui (Kole tang), I was thinking of adding him as well, but didn't want to subject him to a 2 week copper bath / stress if I didn't have to. My Blue hippo tang has a few white spots but I was just going to give him extra worms and food to help, unless I should try and get him. Any advise would be very helpful as I am starting the copper treatment when I get home from work. Thanks!

Uncle99 · May 3, 2021

If you diagnos ick on any fish, then it will likely find all others.
While some fish seem to be able to recover, or may have a natural resistance, I would treat every fish in a simple QT environment, if your sure it’s ick, in addition to copper, TTM and Hypo are other options, but not sure about puffers, never treated one of those.

As for the DT, it must run as usual with tiny feedings for 72 days, I still follow the 72-76 day fallow as it has been 100% successful.

In tank treatments do not work, they may ease the transfer, but not eradicate it.

Jason_Mack · May 3, 2021

Thank you so much, I really appreciate you taking the time to help. I was hoping with my Pentair 40 watt UV light I would never have to worry about ick again, I guess I was wrong. I do have a valentini puffer, but for some reason just the two tangs and my cow fish always get sick. Now the fun begins to tear down my seascape trying to catch them.

Uncle99 · May 3, 2021

Jason_Mack said:
Thank you so much, I really appreciate you taking the time to help. I was hoping with my Pentair 40 watt UV light I would never have to worry about ick again, I guess I was wrong. I do have a valentini puffer, but for some reason just the two tangs and my cow fish always get sick. Now the fun begins to tear down my seascape trying to catch them.

Your not wrong, I think UV can reduce the parasite but only those in the free swimming stage, what’s in the sand or on the rock are not affected, but run at slow flow, can help.

If going fallow, have a read about the actual period, I know 72 is safe but some believe it can be shorter in duration.

Once the parasites cycle is “broken” in the DT and fish recovered your clean again.

nereefpat · May 3, 2021

I see ich. I agree with removing all fish and treating them, while keeping the display fishless. Our disease guy Jay Hemdal is currently recommending 45 days fallow to be enough.

Lost in the Sauce · May 3, 2021

nereefpat said:
I see ich. I agree with removing all fish and treating them, while keeping the display fishless. Our disease guy Jay Hemdal is currently recommending 45 days fallow to be enough.

45 days at a minimum of 81 degrees per his own direction. After reading and re reading his updated qt thread, I keep seeing people throw out the 45 day number and not mention that you need to have your tank at minimum 81°. The omission of that important piece of info can and will screw up a lot of hard work in going fallow if not also included.

Jason_Mack · May 3, 2021

Perfect, will start that tonight. Is there any issue with the 81 degrees regarding my cow fish? I thought above 78 degrees and they can die? only because I don't want to mess this up, I have: (2) tangs, (4) clowns, (1) coral beauty, (1) goby, (1) blenny, (1) valintini puffer, (2) damsels, and (1) 6 line wrasse. Just so I am crystal clear, I am treating them all with copper for (45) days in my QT at 81 degree's? I am going to purchase a Hanna Copper tester, just alone on the shear terror of screwing this up... Well, I'll raise a drink to me waking up every hour for the first few nights to check on my fish.