large island reef tank with center overflow ?'s

Mechanic907

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i am in the planning process of building a large acrylic island style tank with center overflow, tank will be 8'x4'x30", i haven't decided if i will do sand or bare bottom. eventually i would love to keep 1-2 blue spot rays in the tank as well as move my 5 tangs from my 230 waterbox. i know i will do a large sump, but am wondering about drains and return pumps. i currently run A cor 20 on my waterbox and have been happy with it, i would like to utilize 2-3 1.5" drains and either run 2 cor 20's or go with 2 external pumps like the isaki or reeflo style. the return pipe plumbing will come up through the center overflow with 6-8 lineloc style return nozzles in various locations on the overflow, and possibly a couple of return pipes located through out the display for extra circulation. any thoughts or input on the return side of things would helpful.
 

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Here's a video you may find interesting of a large peninsula (roughly the same water volume as what you're planning). It's in German, but they go into a fair amount of detail with the construction, installation and sump.

 
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Mechanic907

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Here's a video you may find interesting of a large peninsula (roughly the same water volume as what you're planning). It's in German, but they go into a fair amount of detail with the construction, installation and sump.

t

that is a beautiful tank, my german is definitely not that good lol
 

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The central overflow idea is intriguing. I envision a bare-bottom setup for higher flow and low maintenance.

1. On your returns - you could aim them straight down to push the detritus out to the edges of the tank, then, perhaps set up a circular pattern of flow with some vortecs to collect all the detritus into a corner of your choosing for easy removal. Or, maybe set up an outward spiral of flow. Lots of great options to think about. Just make sure that you can easily reach the area where the detritus needs to be siphoned.

2. I assume you have a sump below the tank, and not a basement fish room. If so, you could stick with two or three of the COR 20s for simple plumbing - so long as heat is not an issue. Reeflos can be pretty loud, at least the big pressure rated ones that I have used (marlin, manta, tiger).

3. make a ventilation plan

4. 3, 1.5 inch drains in a beanimal style would serve you well. That is what I am running and it easily handles 6000 gph silently.

5. make plans to vacuum detritus into a filter sock in your sump. Much easier than trying to do it with water changes.

6. Be careful about keeping rays and do your research. You might have to build your aqua scape and everything around that animal.

7. That german tank is sick, but, has a remote fish room and looks like a low to moderate flow setup. I love the way they hide the circulation pumps.

Just a few ideas...
 

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I have a tank build a little larger (800g) but also using a similar concept. I was going to go with a center overflow but choose to use four “tower” overflows. These are 3” PVC pipes that hold a 1 1/2” intake and 3/4” return, each. There is a box on top of the towers to hold the bulkheads and PVC fittings. There are a bit ugly but I glued sand on the PVC pipe and small Marco rocks on the top boxes. this all ties into my aquascape design. Somewhat. :)

If I were to do it again I would not be opposed to a center overflow. My tank is viewable on all sides so I wanted to not block any side of the glass or see any power cords.

I was going to use the Cor 20 but was worried it wouldn’t push enough water. It’s rated high enough until you add the head pressure. Then it was much lower than what I wanted. I went with the Reeflo hybrid. I will start with the lower flow wheel and switch to the larger one if need be. With head pressure I will have between 2,000gph to 3,000+GPH to work with. I estimate each 1 1/2” intake, with full suction, will bring at least 1,200gph to the sump each.

to increase water flow I added two more 2” intakes in the bottom of the take feeding 4 returns. I am using the reeflo pumps for these as well. These should move about 3,600gph each.

I have found with my other tanks I am always looking for more flow, not less. So I am glad I have a total of 6 intakes and 8 returns pushing up to 1 GPH

obviously I can lower the flow but always want the option.

my only recommendation would be to plan for as much flow as you would ever want. This assumes you also don’t want electrical cords viewable from internal flow pumps.

just my thoughts.
 
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Mechanic907

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I have a tank build a little larger (800g) but also using a similar concept. I was going to go with a center overflow but choose to use four “tower” overflows. These are 3” PVC pipes that hold a 1 1/2” intake and 3/4” return, each. There is a box on top of the towers to hold the bulkheads and PVC fittings. There are a bit ugly but I glued sand on the PVC pipe and small Marco rocks on the top boxes. this all ties into my aquascape design. Somewhat. :)

If I were to do it again I would not be opposed to a center overflow. My tank is viewable on all sides so I wanted to not block any side of the glass or see any power cords.

I was going to use the Cor 20 but was worried it wouldn’t push enough water. It’s rated high enough until you add the head pressure. Then it was much lower than what I wanted. I went with the Reeflo hybrid. I will start with the lower flow wheel and switch to the larger one if need be. With head pressure I will have between 2,000gph to 3,000+GPH to work with. I estimate each 1 1/2” intake, with full suction, will bring at least 1,200gph to the sump each.

to increase water flow I added two more 2” intakes in the bottom of the take feeding 4 returns. I am using the reeflo pumps for these as well. These should move about 3,600gph each.

I have found with my other tanks I am always looking for more flow, not less. So I am glad I have a total of 6 intakes and 8 returns pushing up to 1 GPH

obviously I can lower the flow but always want the option.

my only recommendation would be to plan for as much flow as you would ever want. This assumes you also don’t want electrical cords viewable from internal flow pumps.

just my thoughts.
great info thank for sharing, i have a tank quote now and will be placing a deposit on it shortly, i was looking at using the synergy reef 60 series sump (was suggested the 72 series by synergy), they suggested using 2 of the 60 series instead of a single 72. i haven't got that portion figured out yet as this is a large project, tank is 8-12 weeks out also.
 

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great info thank for sharing, i have a tank quote now and will be placing a deposit on it shortly, i was looking at using the synergy reef 60 series sump (was suggested the 72 series by synergy), they suggested using 2 of the 60 series instead of a single 72. i haven't got that portion figured out yet as this is a large project, tank is 8-12 weeks out also.
Can I ask who is doing the tank build? Are you using low e glass? Euro brace?

I used Miracles and couldn’t be happier. Great service and great price.

I suspect using two pumps will be better.

it’s a cool build you’re doing. Can’t wait to see it come together. My tank build was over 6 months build time! For various reasons.

but I keep hearing glass is harder to get and way more expensive. I broke a piece of a glass wall when I brought my tank in and it’s 2.5x the price it was a year ago!

here is a picture of my current build. Plumbing is coming together.

758E3F1E-CA5C-4913-9937-77C58E7F2B63.jpeg
 

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great info thank for sharing, i have a tank quote now and will be placing a deposit on it shortly, i was looking at using the synergy reef 60 series sump (was suggested the 72 series by synergy), they suggested using 2 of the 60 series instead of a single 72. i haven't got that portion figured out yet as this is a large project, tank is 8-12 weeks out also.

Did they give you any insight into how to plumb the two 60s?
 

srcleary

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Did they give you any insight into how to plumb the two 60s?
I have four intakes. I plumbed two into each sump. Each has its own return pump. So in that sense they are independent.

then I drilled holes in each sump and used 2” bulkheads and 2” PVC to connect them together. This should balance them should one have more water in it.

the challenge for me was the skimmer. Because I am using an external skimmer, I am pulling water from the line that connects the dumps and returning into both sumps. I have gate valves on on each intake and each return to help me balance the system. I also have flow meters to see exactly how much water the skimmer is pulling from each sump.

Of course I have not run this yet as I am still plumbing but in theory it should work. :cool:

are you running internal or external skimmer?
 

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I have four intakes. I plumbed two into each sump. Each has its own return pump. So in that sense they are independent.

then I drilled holes in each sump and used 2” bulkheads and 2” PVC to connect them together. This should balance them should one have more water in it.

the challenge for me was the skimmer. Because I am using an external skimmer, I am pulling water from the line that connects the dumps and returning into both sumps. I have gate valves on on each intake and each return to help me balance the system. I also have flow meters to see exactly how much water the skimmer is pulling from each sump.

Of course I have not run this yet as I am still plumbing but in theory it should work. :cool:

are you running internal or external skimmer?

Likely two internals (each rated a bit over half the system volume for redundancy). I'm still in the planning phase.
 
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Mechanic907

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Can I ask who is doing the tank build? Are you using low e glass? Euro brace?

I used Miracles and couldn’t be happier. Great service and great price.

I suspect using two pumps will be better.

it’s a cool build you’re doing. Can’t wait to see it come together. My tank build was over 6 months build time! For various reasons.

but I keep hearing glass is harder to get and way more expensive. I broke a piece of a glass wall when I brought my tank in and it’s 2.5x the price it was a year ago!

here is a picture of my current build. Plumbing is coming together.

758E3F1E-CA5C-4913-9937-77C58E7F2B63.jpeg
titan aquatics is who i got the quote from, it will be acrylic and probably on an 8/20 aluminum stand.
 
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Mechanic907

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I have four intakes. I plumbed two into each sump. Each has its own return pump. So in that sense they are independent.

then I drilled holes in each sump and used 2” bulkheads and 2” PVC to connect them together. This should balance them should one have more water in it.

the challenge for me was the skimmer. Because I am using an external skimmer, I am pulling water from the line that connects the dumps and returning into both sumps. I have gate valves on on each intake and each return to help me balance the system. I also have flow meters to see exactly how much water the skimmer is pulling from each sump.

Of course I have not run this yet as I am still plumbing but in theory it should work. :cool:

are you running internal or external skimmer?
i was thinking along the same lines although im not sure i will connect the two sumps, if i use one dedicated the the closed loop system and use the other for normal return flow idk maybe that would act as a redundancy in case one or the other system pumps fail i still have flow through the other sump until it could be fixed. i was looking at an external skimmer as well. but am still in the planning stage of the supporting equipment.
 

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i was thinking along the same lines although im not sure i will connect the two sumps, if i use one dedicated the the closed loop system and use the other for normal return flow idk maybe that would act as a redundancy in case one or the other system pumps fail i still have flow through the other sump until it could be fixed. i was looking at an external skimmer as well. but am still in the planning stage of the supporting equipment.
I am running an oversized skimmer and was way too big for the sump. I also wanted the room in the sumps

if you ran internals it would make sense not to connect the sumps at the bottom but you might still want to connect toward the top to help prevent overflow on one sump. May not be needed but might be an added safety.

I also love having the return pumps external but of course I also know there is greater risk of flooding. Especially with the ATO!
 

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I am running an oversized skimmer and was way too big for the sump. I also wanted the room in the sumps

if you ran internals it would make sense not to connect the sumps at the bottom but you might still want to connect toward the top to help prevent overflow on one sump. May not be needed but might be an added safety.

I also love having the return pumps external but of course I also know there is greater risk of flooding. Especially with the ATO!
I also have learned that the less I have in the sump, the easier it is to keep them clean and help keep nitrates down.

I am not sure if you mentioned if this will be a reef or fowlr? I am always fighting Nitrates with my predator fish so I am also using part of the sumps for a refugium and for a deep bed, low flow, denitrifying bed. Having everything external really helped make room for all of this.
 
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I also have learned that the less I have in the sump, the easier it is to keep them clean and help keep nitrates down.

I am not sure if you mentioned if this will be a reef or fowlr? I am always fighting Nitrates with my predator fish so I am also using part of the sumps for a refugium and for a deep bed, low flow, denitrifying bed. Having everything external really helped make room for all of this.
i think i am leaning more towards external pumps as well, i am planning on reef setup. i think i should have plenty of flow with the center returns on the overflow tower and 6 1" returns towards the bottom of the tank with RFG'S on them. i plan on "hiding" them with rock work but not enough that i cant get to them to clean the RFG's. my current sump on my waterbox 230 is to small and it is crammed with all sorts of equipment, so if i do 2 sumps that would leave a lot of room for other stuff.
 

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I’ve never had an external return pump, but have an Abyzz a200 that I’m putting in the sump for the next build (500 gallon). I feel like there’s more flexibility for where it sits in that last chamber and the Abyzz is super efficient so there’s not much heat transfer.
 

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i think i am leaning more towards external pumps as well, i am planning on reef setup. i think i should have plenty of flow with the center returns on the overflow tower and 6 1" returns towards the bottom of the tank with RFG'S on them. i plan on "hiding" them with rock work but not enough that i cant get to them to clean the RFG's. my current sump on my waterbox 230 is to small and it is crammed with all sorts of equipment, so if i do 2 sumps that would leave a lot of room for other stuff.
I think “lots of room” it’s real plus on these large systems.
 
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Mechanic907

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I got the tank layout finalized and will order it after the first of the year, I will be building the stand instead of the 80/20 route. Tank is gonna be 12 weeks min so that gives me time to convert the garage into the new fish room. I will start a new tank build thread once I start that and building the stand.
 
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Mechanic907

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good news the tank is ready for shipping, now the wait for the long trip up to alaska.
 
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