Lbacha’s 25g Lagoon & 8g Peninsula zoa & SPS garden

minus9

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Once I get it built I will give some feedback on strength and if the hardware I used is a good choice (there are lots of options lol)
Thanks! I was looking at the 10 series black with two slots and two finished sides for the legs and the standard 4 slot black for the supports and sides. Should be strong enough for this tank?
 
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lbacha

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Thanks! I was looking at the 10 series black with two slots and two finished sides for the legs and the standard 4 slot black for the supports and sides. Should be strong enough for this tank?

It will be plenty strong enough to support the tank the thing I need to test with my build is if it wobbles at all since it is 36” tall. I saw a build where someone used the same frame but for a lagoon 50 they said they saw some slight wobbling but it wasn’t a big concern. This is what makes me feel the 1” series 10 will be fine.
 
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lbacha

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The 1” is going to work great. I was concerned when the box came as it wasn’t very big but I put it together and loosely snugged down all the bolts as I need to take it apart again and it is amazingly strong. I let it hold all my weight and it didn’t move at all. It also goes together really easy. I wish I knew about this stuff years ago

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lbacha

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So here are some options for tank placement

Centered
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To one side with a 1” lip
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To one side with no lip
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I like the off to one side setup as it gives me a nice 12” space to do tests and work on frags. With the tank centered I still have space at the side but it’s a little small. I also like the small lip but I will have to seal the top well to make sure spilled water (it is going to happen) doesn’t get under the tank and cause issues. Flush to the edge means any spills just go down the side of the stand
 

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The one inch lip (to the side) is really nice. I would waterproofed the whole top since your going to be doing testing and frag work on there. How are you going to skin it?
 
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lbacha

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The one inch lip (to the side) is really nice. I would waterproofed the whole top since your going to be doing testing and frag work on there. How are you going to skin it?

I’m probably going with the lip as I think it looks the best

I have a couple options for skinning it. I’m going with removable panels as I want to be able to have easy access to the sump and equipment.

Option 1:
Edge joined 3/4” wood panels. This is what the top is (it’s 1” thick). I will add a bracket to the bottom to sit in the t slot and have magnets at the top to hold it in place.

Option 2:
Build a frame out of 80/20 aluminum with 1/4” black expanded pvc panels and hinges that allow the doors to be removed.

Option 2 will be waterproof and less likely to warp. Option 1 will give a more clean look but edge joined pine can warp and these will be big panels.
 
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lbacha

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So does anyone have any thoughts on the following

Centered overflow with either 1 or 2 returns on each side

Overflow off to one side with a single return on the other side

I don’t plan on running a lot of flow through my returns so I’m thinking a single return with the overflow off to one side
 

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Depends on your budget, flow, and what you like best. I prefer the overflow on one side because it doesn’t restrict flow as much. And it circutlates it in a side to side fashion.
 
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lbacha

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Depends on your budget, flow, and what you like best. I prefer the overflow on one side because it doesn’t restrict flow as much. And it circutlates it in a side to side fashion.

Yeah budget isn’t an issue, I have a gyre for one side of the tank and my thoughts are having the return in front of the gyre so that the water from the sump is quickly dispersed through the tank and then the overflow on the other side.

Other considerations are I was thinking of using 2 xr15’s with RMS mounts so a centered overflow would be better. I think I’m going to get another orphek atlantik v4 though and hang it from the ceiling so that isn’t an issue and if I do go radions I can always build the mount out of 80/20 aluminum so the offset overflow doesn’t matter
 

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Yeah budget isn’t an issue, I have a gyre for one side of the tank and my thoughts are having the return in front of the gyre so that the water from the sump is quickly dispersed through the tank and then the overflow on the other side.
That would work very well. Blowing all the detritus twoards the overflow would work well too.
 
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lbacha

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That would work very well. Blowing all the detritus twoards the overflow would work well too.

Yep that was my thoughts as well, I will be running the tank bare bottom so I plan on cranking the flow. I have a icecap 1k for now for the tank but I wouldn’t be against adding a mp10 or two as well to keep the detritus suspended
 
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lbacha

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582a154ef55d4a37c75b4b9928819b36.jpg


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So has anyone mounted their gyre in a corner like this. It would be the least obtrusive mounting position but I don’t know how it works flow wise.
 

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I assume it would go in a circular patter twarda the overflow, creating a loop. If you could run another smaller pump in the middle it would break up that flow patter and create some really chaotic stuff.
 
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lbacha

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So I’m seriously considering the kessil 360x. I’m a big fans of kessil shimmer and the new one looks nice. With the wider lens 1 should do the trick
 
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lbacha

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That's what I'll be putting over mine eventually. I'll start with the a80, because I have one already, but will upgrade later.

I have a h80 and a a160 tuna sun over my freshwater tank they are great lights and the x series looks really good
 

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