LEDs to replace 250W MHs for a 72” x 36” footprint

t5Nitro

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I had a Orphek on my tank and switched to 8 bulb ATI T5 fixture, which currently is over my tank with an OR3 blue plus LED bar. T5 smokes the LEDs, but prior to this tank I ran halides on my 125g. They just run really hot, but the visual and performance is unparalleled by anything out there.

If I were going to trial anything in the LED world again it would be ATI Stratton or A500x kessil. The halides are just the best. Everything else is a hopeful runner up.
 

bobnicaragua

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those are lumen bright mini pendants. The reflectors are still in great shape, though the outside housings are a bit worse for wear after 11 years.

What ballast would you recommend for 400W bulbs?
Reef Brite ballasts are pretty efficient and small, that would be my choice with hamilton or Reef Brite bulbs. If you are going to run Radiums, you might want a little more oomph..
 
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crvz

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I’m getting about 1000 PAR when I measure at the water level under the bulbs, and ~500 about 12” into the tank, so they’re great for most of the area. Just not happy with the back 1/3 of the tank. Maybe I could add a pair of kessil 360s to cover that area instead of doing a wholesale change.
 

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Hmm. I have a 300 gallon deep dimension set up as a 360' walk-around island. The reef runs diagonally from the left "rear" to the right "front", so I needed to keep my coverage foot print and PAR throughout the reef. I replaced six 250W metal halides with this approach:
0MA0ET6.jpg

That's a bank of ViparSpectra for baseline diffused PAR at about 250-300 at the rubble line for a 12 hour photo period. I'm currently running 30% white and 75% blue. Array fixtures are configured 165W 300W 300W 300W 300W 165W, primarily for full coverage front to back and side to side. Removed the stock LED lenses and installed an acrylic diffuser sheet I used on previous fixtures. *Use a PAR meter to set them up or you'll cook the coral* This arrangement provides an incredibly strong yet diffuse light to the reef, something akin to solid bank of six foot VHO T12s from front to back of the aquarium (yeh, I used to run those back in the day as well), only with the ability to shift the color balance and intensity without having to change out bulbs or raise/lower the fixture.
I backed them up with a series of six Kessil A360WE for a six hour peak mid day, bringing the system to about 300-350 PAR at the rubble line and around 450 at the reef top. This also brings the strong "glitter lines" I liked from my halide days, and mimics what I see snorkeling in shallow water - with very high CRI.
Representative power draw from just the LEDs running at about the same level as stated above:
3mAW04U.jpg


And then with the Kessils all on:
jOS73WX.jpg


They grow coral pretty well. Here's a shot from the "right side" end of the reef:
1CmOW5T.jpg


Here's a video from a few months back (yeh, I know, I'll never make a million bucks with my cell phone movies...) during feeding time:


And one from more recently where everyone is waiting for feeding time (and I need to adjust the white balance before taking a quick video...):


It gives a hint of what it looks like, but nothing really beats standing in front of it, or behind it, or sitting in any one of a number of locations around it...

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Ray :cool:
 

A. grandis

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I’m assuming this is gonna cost me in the $3k range if I do it. I was thinking of three of the Neptune Sky units, as I like the integration stuff with the Apex, but I’m not convinced. Granted $3k buys me a LOT of radium bulbs, so in theory I could stick with what I’ve got and just replace bulbs more often.
Technically speaking you only need to replace the bulbs every 12 months. Get the $3K and spend it on something else. Get some nice frags, for example! You already got the best type of lights for reefs in the world over that tank! Or you can change your MH fixtures for more coverage, and even add T5s to it! Your fixtures were designed for deep application, not for spread.
 
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djf91

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Hmm. I have a 300 gallon deep dimension set up as a 360' walk-around island. The reef runs diagonally from the left "rear" to the right "front", so I needed to keep my coverage foot print and PAR throughout the reef. I replaced six 250W metal halides with this approach:
0MA0ET6.jpg

That's a bank of ViparSpectra for baseline diffused PAR at about 250-300 at the rubble line for a 12 hour photo period. I'm currently running 30% white and 75% blue. Array fixtures are configured 165W 300W 300W 300W 300W 165W, primarily for full coverage front to back and side to side. Removed the stock LED lenses and installed an acrylic diffuser sheet I used on previous fixtures. *Use a PAR meter to set them up or you'll cook the coral* This arrangement provides an incredibly strong yet diffuse light to the reef, something akin to solid bank of six foot VHO T12s from front to back of the aquarium (yeh, I used to run those back in the day as well), only with the ability to shift the color balance and intensity without having to change out bulbs or raise/lower the fixture.
I backed them up with a series of six Kessil A360WE for a six hour peak mid day, bringing the system to about 300-350 PAR at the rubble line and around 450 at the reef top. This also brings the strong "glitter lines" I liked from my halide days, and mimics what I see snorkeling in shallow water - with very high CRI.
Representative power draw from just the LEDs running at about the same level as stated above:
3mAW04U.jpg


And then with the Kessils all on:
jOS73WX.jpg


They grow coral pretty well. Here's a shot from the "right side" end of the reef:
1CmOW5T.jpg


Here's a video from a few months back (yeh, I know, I'll never make a million bucks with my cell phone movies...) during feeding time:


And one from more recently where everyone is waiting for feeding time (and I need to adjust the white balance before taking a quick video...):


It gives a hint of what it looks like, but nothing really beats standing in front of it, or behind it, or sitting in any one of a number of locations around it...

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Ray :cool:

Beautiful reef. That honestly does look very close to halides.
 

rgulrich

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@crvz - If you want to stick with additional halide fixtures, the Lumenbrite like you're running are a good choice. I ran those for a couple years with decent SPS results at the rubble line. I ran six and they provided full coverage for the DD footprint.
One I'd think seriously about if I was to go back to halide would be the Geisemann. They put out a good product (one of my friends ran one of their six foot LED fixtures over his reef and it worked great), and their technology seems top notch. Probably be a good special order from an online dealer, and I'm not sure how well it would mix with your current fixtures.
What to look out for: I maxed out the circuit those six halide fixtures were plugged into. @2.4 amps per fixture, they simply maxed out a standard 15amp household circuit. So, plan on running a seperate circuit only for the lighting and nothing else as the breaker will definitely let you know about the load, especially if you accidentally plug in a vacuum cleaner...or turn on the old stereo...
250w halides do put out some heat. When I was running six here in MD, our a/c was having some challenges keeping up. Even with a/c, I still ran a chiller - a lot. I still do run a chiller, but not nearly as much.
Tough decision, and its going to be a few bucks no matter which way you choose to go. If I can help anymore, please let me know.
If you're up near my neighborhood in MD sometime, you're more than welcome to come take a peek at reef and look at options.
Cheers,
Ray
 

A. grandis

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A. Grandis, what pendant/reflector would your recommend instead?
Something like the Cozumel. The right application matters. You might have to upgrade to 400W bulbs though to get the best out of the system (27" high!). It doesn't matter how much you want to save... when you get a big tank you need big lights! That is just the way it is. Quality needs numbers and power. It's not only for the sps.. zoas, anemones, softs... prime light comes with energy power. Your system will be amazing and you know that!


They are out of stock right now. I would call Hamilton and ask when they will be available. So many people bought that fixture!! Lot's of people going back to halids lately. Even public aquariums are going back to halides.. The energy you offer to your system needs to be accordingly to the surface area and deepness to have the optimal results, period. Halides are still the closest you can get to the sun. Get some T5s on the side and you will call it the best day of your life! No regrets!
And you'll still have some money left from that 3K! Buy an Acro for me and grow that colony profusely! LOL! Cheers!
 
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crvz

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Something like the Cozumel. The right application matters. You might have to upgrade to 400W bulbs though to get the best out of the system (27" high!). It doesn't matter how much you want to save... when you get a big tank you need big lights! That is just the way it is. Quality needs numbers and power. It's not only for the sps.. zoas, anemones, softs... prime light comes with energy power. Your system will be amazing and you know that!


They are out of stock right now. I would call Hamilton and ask when they will be available. So many people bought that fixture!! Lot's of people going back to halids lately. Even public aquariums are going back to halides.. The energy you offer to your system needs to be accordingly to the surface area and deepness to have the optimal results, period. Halides are still the closest you can get to the sun. Get some T5s on the side and you will call it the best day of your life! No regrets!
And you'll still have some money left from that 3K! Buy an Acro for me and grow that colony profusely! LOL! Cheers!

Thanks. I am growing a few Acros on the floor of the tank right now (a red planet I have completely covered a rock and is starting to table), so I don't think the pendants I have are wholly insufficient. I've run T5 in years past, and I liked them, but the middle bracing on this tank drone me to do MH pendants. I just want more in the back.

You've all done a great job of convincing me not to give up on MH. I'll look into augmenting a few things. I think I could add a pair or trio of Kessils behind the MH, that might be just what it takes to scratch my itch.
 

Nick Steele

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If you can get the Coral Care G2 price from BRS, I would strongly consider those. For 3k you could get 6 of 'em! Note that when you actually put them in the cart there is an extra discount... so 6 would be $3400!

3 SKY, 3 of the new Orphek Icons, 3 Stratons, 3 Radion G5 XR30 will all probably work. Especially if you keep the XHO's as fill light if needed.
Do you have a clue as to why they are sooooo cheap on BRS? I might think about grabbing two for my 100g upgrade next year.
 

A. grandis

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Thanks. I am growing a few Acros on the floor of the tank right now (a red planet I have completely covered a rock and is starting to table), so I don't think the pendants I have are wholly insufficient. I've run T5 in years past, and I liked them, but the middle bracing on this tank drone me to do MH pendants. I just want more in the back.

You've all done a great job of convincing me not to give up on MH. I'll look into augmenting a few things. I think I could add a pair or trio of Kessils behind the MH, that might be just what it takes to scratch my itch.

The Red Planet Acro I mention above.

25AAC364-579F-4529-B82A-11FB3B1AF80E.jpeg
Very nice Acro! I have 2 X 250W halides on a Giesemann Spectra only for zoas over a 75gal., so if I had a 27" tall tank I would probably run 400W bulbs over it with a spread angled fixture. Like I've said... and I think you didn't fully get it... you pendants are designed to punch the light deeper down. So 250W bulbs work for that application. If you would choose a fixture with a wider angle to spread that light, 400w would be the next step.
You can also put T5s there and it will be much better than kessils, cause it would actually complement the halides and fill in all the spots with it's amazing distribution. Gotta love Acros!
 

rtparty

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Do you have a clue as to why they are sooooo cheap on BRS? I might think about grabbing two for my 100g upgrade next year.

BRS has put them on clearance to clear inventory. They aren't selling well at all.

I'll take it though. Grabbed one to replace the GHL Mitras over my wife's tank. The Mitras and Aquatic Life hybrid should basically offset the cost. I see it as a major win in my book
 

Nick Steele

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Oh interesting!!!! In my eyes the lights seem to be awesome and haven’t really seen any bad reviews on them besides being too white which imo isn’t a bad thing I hate the winded look.
 

rtparty

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Oh interesting!!!! In my eyes the lights seem to be awesome and haven’t really seen any bad reviews on them besides being too white which imo isn’t a bad thing I hate the winded look.

The only negative things I've seen come from those that don't run them. The weight can be an issue for a lot though so I understand that. Tank mounting isn't an option.

I'm super stoked to grab one at almost 40% off. I had points to pay for the controller.
 
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crvz

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The only negative things I've seen come from those that don't run them. The weight can be an issue for a lot though so I understand that. Tank mounting isn't an option.

I'm super stoked to grab one at almost 40% off. I had points to pay for the controller.
Do you have a link to these lights? I’m not sure I found the ones you’re talking about.
 

oreo54

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Do you have a link to these lights? I’m not sure I found the ones you’re talking about.
Not sure where they get 40% off from though..
Review:
 

rtparty

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Do you have a link to these lights? I’m not sure I found the ones you’re talking about.

Extra 20% is taken off at checkout.
 

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