Let’s Mix it Up! Designing and Using a Water Mixing Station

homer1475

Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
View Badges
Joined
Apr 24, 2018
Messages
11,677
Reaction score
18,662
Location
Way upstate NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
What kind of hoses is everyone using to pump water to their tanks? I’m not too excited about using braided vinyl.
I bought this drinking water hose for campers so that I knew there were no impurities. I cut the ends off of the hose and put plastic ends on that I needed. There are different lengths available and it's easy enough to pick up at the local Wally World.
I used the same, with the exception I used 1/2", and did the same thing(cutting the copper ends off). I found it way cheaper then braided vinyl, and holds it's shape better.
 

waterskiguy

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 23, 2013
Messages
265
Reaction score
248
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Great write up mate. I'm in the process of planning / starting to make mine.

Im using 2 blue 55Gal drums. I have a question for anyone that might be able to answer, I couldn't find uniseals where I live so I got bulkheads but obviously the barrel sides are curved. Can anyone see any issues with putting the bulkheads in the base and building a stand to lift the barrels off the ground enough to fit all the plumbing? I was going to build a stand for it anyway, and this way more of the water would be able to drain out too.
I used regular flat bulkheads in the bottom of my blue barrels and they worked fine. I'd recommend using unions to relieve the pressure on the bulkhead and tubing from the bottom of the barrel flexing. You might want to us some silicone sealant to make sure the seal is tight. I seem to remember having a small leak, when i first set mine up. I don't really remember what it was, that was leaking, but I took my whole setup apart, sealed it with silicone and it's been okay for the last year and a half.
 

shaneclaussen

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
24
Reaction score
5
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks for responding so quickly.

Yea, here's what I've used for the last 7+ years:

1599086968619.png


80G (maybe 75G) + 40G + 40G. 80G acts as RODI storage and helps to minimize TDS creep. I have the ability to move water from either of the 40Gs to the other 40G, and/or recirculate either of the 40Gs, and the middle ball valve on the top is plumbed to my sump (so I can pump in RODI or SW). I have 120G display, so if I've cranked up my auto water change to 20%, I go through that 40G in a week or less, so I've always wanted to get a SW container that's larger.

I'm about ready to re-plumb this so I was looking at what others had done. After looking at yours, I realized I could get more efficient utilization of the space. I figure I can replace those two 40s I have with either 55s or 80s. By doing that I can go from the three containers I currently use down to 2 which simplifies the plumbing and has the additional benefit of enabling me to mix more salt at one time.

Can I assume this is the tank you purchased (Ace Roto-Mold) (doesn't appear like they NSF certified these):

1599087405102.png




I measured and I have space for 2 of the 80G variants so that's what I'm currently contemplating:

1599087482947.png


I'm trying to verify these containers are translucent so I can see the water level inside.
 
OP
OP
dbl

dbl

It Takes Less Energy to be Nice
View Badges
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
15,945
Reaction score
90,195
Location
SW Florida
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thanks for responding so quickly.

Yea, here's what I've used for the last 7+ years:

1599086968619.png


80G (maybe 75G) + 40G + 40G. 80G acts as RODI storage and helps to minimize TDS creep. I have the ability to move water from either of the 40Gs to the other 40G, and/or recirculate either of the 40Gs, and the middle ball valve on the top is plumbed to my sump (so I can pump in RODI or SW). I have 120G display, so if I've cranked up my auto water change to 20%, I go through that 40G in a week or less, so I've always wanted to get a SW container that's larger.

I'm about ready to re-plumb this so I was looking at what others had done. After looking at yours, I realized I could get more efficient utilization of the space. I figure I can replace those two 40s I have with either 55s or 80s. By doing that I can go from the three containers I currently use down to 2 which simplifies the plumbing and has the additional benefit of enabling me to mix more salt at one time.

Can I assume this is the tank you purchased (Ace Roto-Mold) (doesn't appear like they NSF certified these):

1599087405102.png




I measured and I have space for 2 of the 80G variants so that's what I'm currently contemplating:

1599087482947.png


I'm trying to verify these containers are translucent so I can see the water level inside.

The 55 gallon version you pictured above looks just like the ones I have. Here is the link to the ones I actually purchased. As I've said before, the shipping is the killer if you can't find them locally.


 

Bleigh

The best bad influence
View Badges
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
9,074
Reaction score
22,373
Location
Charlotte, NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0

Let’s Mix it Up!

There is one undeniable fact in this hobby – WE ALL NEED WATER! In fact, two types of water. Clean fresh water (FW) run through a quality RODI system and the obvious saltwater (SW). Secondly, we all know what a water change is. This is not an article on whether or not water changes are required or necessary, nor is it an article to discuss frequency. Your research and ultimate reefing philosophy will determine those answers for you.

Water changes can be done using something as simple as a 5 gallon bucket. If that is how you currently do it, and you’re okay with that, you can stop reading and move on. But if you’re looking for something a little more formal, and might I add potentially easier, you may want to continue reading. I’ll try not to bore your too much!

My personal goal was to never lift another bucket again…simple as that. So I started searching the internet for ideas. Between Google, forums, Yourtube and Mytube, I quickly realized I didn’t need to recreate the wheel. There is a plethora of designs out there to choose from…pick one. Remember, imitation is the highest form a flattery!

The most critical component of making water is obviously the RODI unit. All I will say is, if you don’t have one yet, get one! I am of the opinion that having control of your water is vital. Making your own (nothing against LFS’s, I love mine) is about the only way to insure you know the exact quality of your water.

The Equipment

Subject to the design you choose, here’s a simple breakdown of what you will and/or may need:

  • RODI unit you already have or will be buying (hint-hint)
  • A shut-off valve and float switch – no flooding necessary!
  • Water storage containers with lids – two of them preferably
    • One for FW, and one for new SW
    • These should be food-grade quality containers, preferably they will be NSF Approved
    • Size determined by your needs/system capacity
    • The grey Brute trash cans are very common and often used
    • Although more costly, the water storage containers found online and in farm supply stores work nicely as well
  • Plumbing
    • I like to use good old PVC (we usually have some laying around anyway right)
    • Ball valves, T’s, Elbows and Unions
  • Connections – Plumbing in to container walls and/or tops
    • Bulkheads for flat surfaces
    • Uniseals for curved surfaces
  • Pump for mixing
    • If designed properly, you can use one pump for mixing and distribution
  • Powerhead and Heater – resides in the SW container
  • A switched Power strip for easy control (optional)
  • Hose long enough to reach your display/sump/top-off reservoir
    • Or if you have the ability to hard plumb to your display, even better.
The Location

Obviously this will be unique to your environment. My biggest suggestion is in a controlled environment, meaning it’s heated and/or cooled depending on your climate. If you’re lucky enough to have a fish room, then it’s pretty obvious! If not, then maybe it’s a spare closet, the laundry room, the garage or basement may work if temperatures are at least somewhat stable. Note: Garages and basements, particularly non-insulated ones, can cause issues with RODI unit production during extreme temperatures, so choose your space wisely.

You may have to get creative. In my case, my wife wanted me to redo the foyer. Through intense negotiations (which I rarely win) I was able to commandeer the coat closet that had become the dumping grounds for all things junk. I took that space, which happened to back to our laundry room. So she got a new foyer and I got the perfect spot for a mixing station. Use your creativity and you’ll be surprised what you can come up with.

One thing you do have to keep in mind is access to water supply and drainage. That RODI unit you already had or will be getting soon (hint-hint) doesn’t come with its own water! That’s why a laundry room works great. You’ll have both the supply and drain for the washing machine right there at your disposal.

The Assembly

By now, you should have already flattered someone by using their design, but here is a breakdown of the basics. To try to make this easier, the image below is a picture of mine just after setting it up. I’ve labeled things and will refer to this image moving forward.

3.jpg

You can see my RODI unit mounted above. The lettered items are “equipment” and the numbered items are “valves”. This is merely for reference and by no means the only (or best for that matter) way of putting together a mixing station.
The main idea of doing all this is to mix and move water, so at a minimum, your new mixing station should be able to:
  • Transfer water between containers
  • Pump/circulate water within the SW mixing container for well, mixing!
  • Pump both FW and SW to the display and/or top-off reservoir.
  • You will want to be able to empty the containers in case of prolonged power outage or a visit from Mr. Murphy - the inevitable pump failure.
In both containers, you’ll need a connection towards the bottom. In the SW container, you’ll also want one towards the top of the container. This will allow circulation within the container for mixing. Your containers will determine how this accomplished – uniseal or bulkhead.

The Operations – (Using the picture above for reference)

Your RODI system will produce FW and be stored in the first container A. You will use this FW for top-offs, as well as supply your second container B with water that will become your new SW after mixing. With this design, and the turning of a few valves, pump C does all the work. Said differently, no more buckets!!! So let’s move some water:

For discussion purposes, assume all valves are closed (like pictured) at the beginning of each task – represented by numbered items below. I would recommend closing all valves at the end of any task to lessen the chances of cross-contaminating the FW and SW. You will also need a hose with a ball valve on the output end. Again, if you can hard plumb to your display/sump/ATO reservoir, all the better.

  1. Move FW to top-off reservoir in the stand under display (in my case)
    • Attach hose to the outlet of valve 2 (there is a hose bib converter on the end of that valve)
    • Open valves 2 and 4, turn on pump C to fill reservoir via hose
  2. Move FW to the SW container Bfor mixing
    1. o Open valve 1 and valve 4, turn on pump C to pump over to container B.
  3. Mixing new SW
    • o Put salt into container B
    • o Open valve 1 and valve 3, turn on pump C and begin mixing salt via circulation
    • Editor Note: In my case, I built a shelf over my mixing station, so I purchased the hopper D to add salt. Totally unnecessary if you have access to the top of your container.
  4. Move SW to Display for Water Change
    • Open valves 2 and valve 3, turn on pump C to pump SW to display via hose
  5. Empty Containers without pump due to power outage or visit from Mr. Murphy
    • Attached hose to end of either valve 5 or 6, and open the valve. Gravity will do its thing
Heating:

I have a heater inside container B. I only heat just prior to using the SW. Some will argue this is not necessary dependent on the quantity of your water change, which may very well be true. But since I have the heater already, I just try to match the display.

Water Storage and Continued Mixing:

This is another area of debate among hobbyists. We’ve all seen the threads asking “How long can I keep mixed saltwater?” And “Should I keep it mixed”. There are far too many choices/options to discuss here. Me personally, I mix up about 50 gallons at a time. I mix and heat just prior to performing a water change.

When it comes to storing your RODI water, the important factor is to keep it sealed as tightly as possible. Very simply put, RODI water has been stripped of all things bad, and if allowed, it will try to grab those bad things back! So an air tight lid is best and no stirring necessary.

Over time your containers interior may build up some nasty’s and need to be cleaned. An annual cleaning (or more often if necessary) is recommended – let vinegar be your friend.

Extras

You may have noticed on my station a couple things under the RODI unit. In addition to a powerhead and heater, I also have a salinity monitor and thermometer inside the SW container. I didn’t want to drill a hole in the lid, so I came up with this.
4.jpg
Are there fancier ways of doing this, sure? Did I have this stuff already lying amongst my fish stuff, heck yes! It works great and is essentially air tight once the uniseal is capped with the PVC. Lastly, although I do not have a picture, all the interior items in my SW container are zipped tied to a long piece of PVC that rests inside the container. So if need be, I can pull that one piece of PVC out and bring all the equipment with it. That is the one thing I thought of myself!!!

Let your imagination run wild with one goal in mind…what you can do to make things easier on yourself. This hobby can be difficult enough on its own. Something as simple as a well-designed mixing station can make your weekly/bi-weekly/monthly/whenever water changes a little easier.

I hope this has helped at least give you an idea of the what’s and how’s of a mixing station. Don’t be afraid to put yours together. Having control of the water quality will be something you will never regret. Never lifting another bucket isn’t bad either.

Happy Reefing!
Where was this when I was planning mine! Great info!
 

Daniel

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
236
Reaction score
406
Location
California
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
These mixing stations are amazing! Wondering if there are any folks who've done more smaller setups (portable even) where casters, wheels or some sort of portability was built into the design? I think with a lot of the more "semi-permanent" or "permanent" set-ups, you are kind of committed to a specific area. Just curious if there were any designs with mobility built in mind?
 

BZOFIQ

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
4,663
Reaction score
3,957
Location
NYC
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
Thanks for responding so quickly.

Yea, here's what I've used for the last 7+ years:

1599086968619.png


80G (maybe 75G) + 40G + 40G. 80G acts as RODI storage and helps to minimize TDS creep. I have the ability to move water from either of the 40Gs to the other 40G, and/or recirculate either of the 40Gs, and the middle ball valve on the top is plumbed to my sump (so I can pump in RODI or SW). I have 120G display, so if I've cranked up my auto water change to 20%, I go through that 40G in a week or less, so I've always wanted to get a SW container that's larger.

I'm about ready to re-plumb this so I was looking at what others had done. After looking at yours, I realized I could get more efficient utilization of the space. I figure I can replace those two 40s I have with either 55s or 80s. By doing that I can go from the three containers I currently use down to 2 which simplifies the plumbing and has the additional benefit of enabling me to mix more salt at one time.

Can I assume this is the tank you purchased (Ace Roto-Mold) (doesn't appear like they NSF certified these):

1599087405102.png




I measured and I have space for 2 of the 80G variants so that's what I'm currently contemplating:

1599087482947.png


I'm trying to verify these containers are translucent so I can see the water level inside.


Yes, they are translucent. I just got the 80G in.

Shipping pretty much doubled the price of the tank.
 

ID-Reefer

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
458
Reaction score
642
Location
Boise
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Finally finished my mixing station. Working wonderfully so far. The quick connect hose is great for filling the tank which I’m in the middle of filling. I have a valve and short piece of straight pipe on the end of the hose which works great. My Husky Shelf is working great I’ve had both 65 gal tanks completely full and it is solid. Also holds my extra salt, sand, dosing mixtures etc.

I went with clear PVC pipe which is really nice so I can see the water moving and know where it is at. I have valves on both sides so I can access RODI water or salt water without running the pump and clear the line if needed.

Big thanks to the OP and to others who have posted in this thread. I’ve used several stations Shown here as inspiration for my own. Cheers.
D308A7B2-CA3E-4CF1-86AF-7E3DC6B83D41.jpeg
937B6DA2-67A5-4E8A-9C95-9DFBAF329F87.jpeg
 
OP
OP
dbl

dbl

It Takes Less Energy to be Nice
View Badges
Joined
Mar 13, 2014
Messages
15,945
Reaction score
90,195
Location
SW Florida
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Finally finished my mixing station. Working wonderfully so far. The quick connect hose is great for filling the tank which I’m in the middle of filling. I have a valve and short piece of straight pipe on the end of the hose which works great. My Husky Shelf is working great I’ve had both 65 gal tanks completely full and it is solid. Also holds my extra salt, sand, dosing mixtures etc.

I went with clear PVC pipe which is really nice so I can see the water moving and know where it is at. I have valves on both sides so I can access RODI water or salt water without running the pump and clear the line if needed.

Big thanks to the OP and to others who have posted in this thread. I’ve used several stations Shown here as inspiration for my own. Cheers.
D308A7B2-CA3E-4CF1-86AF-7E3DC6B83D41.jpeg
937B6DA2-67A5-4E8A-9C95-9DFBAF329F87.jpeg

That turned out great...congratulations.
 

BZOFIQ

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
4,663
Reaction score
3,957
Location
NYC
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
Can I assume this is the tank you purchased (Ace Roto-Mold) (doesn't appear like they NSF certified these):

1599087405102.png




I measured and I have space for 2 of the 80G variants so that's what I'm currently contemplating:

1599087482947.png


I'm trying to verify these containers are translucent so I can see the water level inside.

Both the SP0080-RT and SP0055-MM are listed as NSF certified.

 

Taki

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
69
Reaction score
35
Location
Montreal
Rating - 0%
0   0   0

Let’s Mix it Up!

There is one undeniable fact in this hobby – WE ALL NEED WATER! In fact, two types of water. Clean fresh water (FW) run through a quality RODI system and the obvious saltwater (SW). Secondly, we all know what a water change is. This is not an article on whether or not water changes are required or necessary, nor is it an article to discuss frequency. Your research and ultimate reefing philosophy will determine those answers for you.

Water changes can be done using something as simple as a 5 gallon bucket. If that is how you currently do it, and you’re okay with that, you can stop reading and move on. But if you’re looking for something a little more formal, and might I add potentially easier, you may want to continue reading. I’ll try not to bore your too much!

My personal goal was to never lift another bucket again…simple as that. So I started searching the internet for ideas. Between Google, forums, Yourtube and Mytube, I quickly realized I didn’t need to recreate the wheel. There is a plethora of designs out there to choose from…pick one. Remember, imitation is the highest form a flattery!

The most critical component of making water is obviously the RODI unit. All I will say is, if you don’t have one yet, get one! I am of the opinion that having control of your water is vital. Making your own (nothing against LFS’s, I love mine) is about the only way to insure you know the exact quality of your water.

The Equipment

Subject to the design you choose, here’s a simple breakdown of what you will and/or may need:

  • RODI unit you already have or will be buying (hint-hint)
  • A shut-off valve and float switch – no flooding necessary!
  • Water storage containers with lids – two of them preferably
    • One for FW, and one for new SW
    • These should be food-grade quality containers, preferably they will be NSF Approved
    • Size determined by your needs/system capacity
    • The grey Brute trash cans are very common and often used
    • Although more costly, the water storage containers found online and in farm supply stores work nicely as well
  • Plumbing
    • I like to use good old PVC (we usually have some laying around anyway right)
    • Ball valves, T’s, Elbows and Unions
  • Connections – Plumbing in to container walls and/or tops
    • Bulkheads for flat surfaces
    • Uniseals for curved surfaces
  • Pump for mixing
    • If designed properly, you can use one pump for mixing and distribution
  • Powerhead and Heater – resides in the SW container
  • A switched Power strip for easy control (optional)
  • Hose long enough to reach your display/sump/top-off reservoir
    • Or if you have the ability to hard plumb to your display, even better.
The Location

Obviously this will be unique to your environment. My biggest suggestion is in a controlled environment, meaning it’s heated and/or cooled depending on your climate. If you’re lucky enough to have a fish room, then it’s pretty obvious! If not, then maybe it’s a spare closet, the laundry room, the garage or basement may work if temperatures are at least somewhat stable. Note: Garages and basements, particularly non-insulated ones, can cause issues with RODI unit production during extreme temperatures, so choose your space wisely.

You may have to get creative. In my case, my wife wanted me to redo the foyer. Through intense negotiations (which I rarely win) I was able to commandeer the coat closet that had become the dumping grounds for all things junk. I took that space, which happened to back to our laundry room. So she got a new foyer and I got the perfect spot for a mixing station. Use your creativity and you’ll be surprised what you can come up with.

One thing you do have to keep in mind is access to water supply and drainage. That RODI unit you already had or will be getting soon (hint-hint) doesn’t come with its own water! That’s why a laundry room works great. You’ll have both the supply and drain for the washing machine right there at your disposal.

The Assembly

By now, you should have already flattered someone by using their design, but here is a breakdown of the basics. To try to make this easier, the image below is a picture of mine just after setting it up. I’ve labeled things and will refer to this image moving forward.

3.jpg

You can see my RODI unit mounted above. The lettered items are “equipment” and the numbered items are “valves”. This is merely for reference and by no means the only (or best for that matter) way of putting together a mixing station.
The main idea of doing all this is to mix and move water, so at a minimum, your new mixing station should be able to:
  • Transfer water between containers
  • Pump/circulate water within the SW mixing container for well, mixing!
  • Pump both FW and SW to the display and/or top-off reservoir.
  • You will want to be able to empty the containers in case of prolonged power outage or a visit from Mr. Murphy - the inevitable pump failure.
In both containers, you’ll need a connection towards the bottom. In the SW container, you’ll also want one towards the top of the container. This will allow circulation within the container for mixing. Your containers will determine how this accomplished – uniseal or bulkhead.

The Operations – (Using the picture above for reference)

Your RODI system will produce FW and be stored in the first container A. You will use this FW for top-offs, as well as supply your second container B with water that will become your new SW after mixing. With this design, and the turning of a few valves, pump C does all the work. Said differently, no more buckets!!! So let’s move some water:

For discussion purposes, assume all valves are closed (like pictured) at the beginning of each task – represented by numbered items below. I would recommend closing all valves at the end of any task to lessen the chances of cross-contaminating the FW and SW. You will also need a hose with a ball valve on the output end. Again, if you can hard plumb to your display/sump/ATO reservoir, all the better.

  1. Move FW to top-off reservoir in the stand under display (in my case)
    • Attach hose to the outlet of valve 2 (there is a hose bib converter on the end of that valve)
    • Open valves 2 and 4, turn on pump C to fill reservoir via hose
  2. Move FW to the SW container Bfor mixing
    1. o Open valve 1 and valve 4, turn on pump C to pump over to container B.
  3. Mixing new SW
    • o Put salt into container B
    • o Open valve 1 and valve 3, turn on pump C and begin mixing salt via circulation
    • Editor Note: In my case, I built a shelf over my mixing station, so I purchased the hopper D to add salt. Totally unnecessary if you have access to the top of your container.
  4. Move SW to Display for Water Change
    • Open valves 2 and valve 3, turn on pump C to pump SW to display via hose
  5. Empty Containers without pump due to power outage or visit from Mr. Murphy
    • Attached hose to end of either valve 5 or 6, and open the valve. Gravity will do its thing
Heating:

I have a heater inside container B. I only heat just prior to using the SW. Some will argue this is not necessary dependent on the quantity of your water change, which may very well be true. But since I have the heater already, I just try to match the display.

Water Storage and Continued Mixing:

This is another area of debate among hobbyists. We’ve all seen the threads asking “How long can I keep mixed saltwater?” And “Should I keep it mixed”. There are far too many choices/options to discuss here. Me personally, I mix up about 50 gallons at a time. I mix and heat just prior to performing a water change.

When it comes to storing your RODI water, the important factor is to keep it sealed as tightly as possible. Very simply put, RODI water has been stripped of all things bad, and if allowed, it will try to grab those bad things back! So an air tight lid is best and no stirring necessary.

Over time your containers interior may build up some nasty’s and need to be cleaned. An annual cleaning (or more often if necessary) is recommended – let vinegar be your friend.

Extras

You may have noticed on my station a couple things under the RODI unit. In addition to a powerhead and heater, I also have a salinity monitor and thermometer inside the SW container. I didn’t want to drill a hole in the lid, so I came up with this.
4.jpg
Are there fancier ways of doing this, sure? Did I have this stuff already lying amongst my fish stuff, heck yes! It works great and is essentially air tight once the uniseal is capped with the PVC. Lastly, although I do not have a picture, all the interior items in my SW container are zipped tied to a long piece of PVC that rests inside the container. So if need be, I can pull that one piece of PVC out and bring all the equipment with it. That is the one thing I thought of myself!!!

Let your imagination run wild with one goal in mind…what you can do to make things easier on yourself. This hobby can be difficult enough on its own. Something as simple as a well-designed mixing station can make your weekly/bi-weekly/monthly/whenever water changes a little easier.

I hope this has helped at least give you an idea of the what’s and how’s of a mixing station. Don’t be afraid to put yours together. Having control of the water quality will be something you will never regret. Never lifting another bucket isn’t bad either.

Happy Reefing!
I would like to build exactly this. Would you mind providing me with a parts list?
 

BZOFIQ

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
4,663
Reaction score
3,957
Location
NYC
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
Anybody with the 80-Gallon Upright square tanks like below. Do you use the steel band that is sold as an accessory or do you feel it is not needed?

1606838934938.png
 

BZOFIQ

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
4,663
Reaction score
3,957
Location
NYC
Rating - 100%
8   0   0
I would like to build exactly this. Would you mind providing me with a parts list?
The square tanks he uses are SP0055-MM by Dan Hartog (Ace-Roto) there is also an 80-gallon version by the same company, model SP0080-RT

Here is a similar setup using the same tanks.



Warning: shipping on these tanks pretty much doubles it's price.
 

Max93

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 12, 2019
Messages
745
Reaction score
369
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
How do you drill the hole for the saltwater tank so you can mix it in tank B? I have zero knowledge if drilling circles and putting a bulkhead.
 

don_chuwish

Smells something fishy
View Badges
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
Messages
3,013
Reaction score
3,386
Location
A better place
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Thank you! So I’m assuming that the bulk head diameter will match the size of the hole saw right? So 2” bulk head, get a 2” hole saw.
You need to be careful there. A bulkhead for a 1" pipe does not get a 1" hole. Check the bulkhead you buy - make the hole just slightly larger than the threaded part that passes through the hole. Also, no need for an expensive hole saw - you're just going through plastic.
 

Max93

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jan 12, 2019
Messages
745
Reaction score
369
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ea
You need to be careful there. A bulkhead for a 1" pipe does not get a 1" hole. Check the bulkhead you buy - make the hole just slightly larger than the threaded part that passes through the hole. Also, no need for an expensive hole saw - you're just going through plastic.

thank you, that makes sense.
 

homer1475

Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
View Badges
Joined
Apr 24, 2018
Messages
11,677
Reaction score
18,662
Location
Way upstate NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
While I wouldn't buy an expensive hole saw, I would still buy a hole saw for this application.

$19.99 for a 16 piece hole saw from BRS that covers 99% of the typical hole sizes.


Think I got one even cheaper from Harbor Freight.
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

    Votes: 73 51.8%
  • Gate valves.

    Votes: 72 51.1%
  • Check valves.

    Votes: 36 25.5%
  • None.

    Votes: 31 22.0%
  • Other.

    Votes: 9 6.4%
Back
Top