I do not see a problem at all in this.If it makes a difference, the stand is for 75-09 gallon tanks. My tank is 30 gallons.
Good question. Yes, I took the doors off temporarily so they don't get in the way while I'm working on the sump.
Additional, I like the idea to close the acrylic lid above the filter socks. Overflow pipes tend to create a lot of airbubbles in the sump which will cause a lot of salt creep.Calling all sump pro's.... In need of serious help figuring out drain placement in the sump/filter socks/etc.
Here's the sump.
As you can see I have one drain hole the leads to one of the filter socks. There was another hole for a second drain/bulkhead above the other filter sock but the previous owner of the sump hacked that part off - they said it made sock changing easier and the drain quieter.
I have a red piece of acrylic I'm thinking about gluing onto the sump and drilling a couple holes for the other two drains.
Sort of like these (minus this sock holder part):
Or am I better off leaving the sump as is - not adding the piece of acrylic and leaving the drains unsupported? Would that really make sock changing easier/the drain quieter?
I've never used filter socks before and don't quite understand how they work in relation to drain pipe placement. I've seen sumps with drain pipes terminating inside the filter sock, and some with separate filter sock and drain compartments. I assume it's easier to change the socks without having a pipe in the way or one that needs to be removed every time the sock is changed. If changing the socks requires too much effort, I'm more likely to go longer between changes...
Next, I have to figure out where the second and third drains should go on the sump.
One drain will go through the hole to the sock on the left side. I'm guessing that will be either the main or secondary drain.
For the other two drains, options are:
-Both empty into the filter sock?
-One into filter sock, and one right beside the sock?
-One into filter sock, and one to the fuge?
-Both into the refugium (second chamber)?
(I didn't take a pic of this plan, so an example from google...)
A couple other things to take into account...
Internal overflow box bean animal plumbing isn't setup yet. So the main full siphon, secondary trickle, and emergency drains can be put in any order. Wanted to figure out sump possibilities before deciding for sure on the internal box plumbing.
The main and secondary drain will terminate 1" below the water line, the emergency about 1" above the water line.
Can anyone tell me what to do here?
That bottle is in one of the earlier pictures... and not in the background at all.
Hiding.Look how many brittle stars I found/salvaged from my AquaSD order!
Put them all in my tank never to see them again. I spend a lot (seriously A LOT) of time watching my tank. Are they hiding or dead?
I think you hit all of my question that I had when I first saw the thread.
That would be my solution too, maybe 1/2" Baltic Birch ply will be good. Its a quality ply that normally doesn't sag. A woodworking store like Woodcraft sells it. Let's hear from the pro's on this one.
Installing the Return plumbing in and on the display tank.
I'm not sure if it's high enough to prevent a good amount of back flow to the sump.
I can raise it by adding additional locline pieces, but unfortunately that will make the nozzle even more obtrusive than it already is.
Nice catch.
