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n2585722

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The blue is only applicable to the serial out channel for the old AI fixtures. the 0-10v are both white only in the settings since they only have the one channel. the serial out is actually 3 channels but the blue does both the blue and royal blue on the AI fixture but it has to send out separate signal on the serial out.
 

Ls7corvete

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The blue is only applicable to the serial out channel for the old AI fixtures. the 0-10v are both white only in the settings since they only have the one channel. the serial out is actually 3 channels but the blue does both the blue and royal blue on the AI fixture but it has to send out separate signal on the serial out.
That makes sense, it just confused me that you are presented with settings for white and blue for each channel. I kept trying to set the blue intensity on the white channel. But, I had to ignore the blue setting on white and go to the blue channel.
 

n2585722

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At one time all three outputs only had a intensity setting. Then people with the AI lights complained that there was no way to change the color so they added the blue settings in. I guess they could not use a different function for the AI output so you just disregard the blue settings on the 0-10v outputs. I don’t use the ALC anymore since I have the AVC modules so I tend to forget about the blue settings on the ALC function.
 

n2585722

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I got one off of eBay a while back but it must have been an early version. It doesn’t to have the PWM ability on it like my other one does. It does do the 0-10v ok though. I use the PWM signal for my lighting.
 

purp

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i have a TON of items for sale, hopefully they will be useful to this crew.

 

pjb9166

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I'm looking for (1) PC4 (2-3) switch cables (2-3) temp probes "double pin plug not the itemp" (1) SL1 pH/ORP (1) SID also a handful of connector cables. Otherwise I have all the modules I need as I own the light and Elite. Does anyone have the mentioned items for sale? I'm looking to purchase without playing the eBay game. Please PM me.
 
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n2585722

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I'm looking for (1) PC4 (2-3) switch cables (2-3) temp probes "double pin plug not the itemp" (1) SL1 pH/ORP (1) SID also a handful of connector cables. Otherwise I have all the modules I need as I own the light and Elite. Does anyone have the mentioned items for sale? I'm looking to purchase without playing the eBay game. Please PM me.
Have you checked out this thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/alternatives-to-digital-aquatics-probes-and-parts.439573/ ?
 

pjb9166

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Thanks @philshel shared that info with me and that you are quite one of the to go to's. I actually stumbled across this thread early last year. It helped me setup my Elite at a very basic level. I wound up making a deal with @purp. I got a PC4, SL1, temp probe, SID and a few switch cables. I wound up direct soldering a temp probe and switch for my ATO on my old SL1. For some reason the temperature works bacwards. As the tank cools the value on the head unit goes up and viscera. So I had to set the unit to turn on and off my heater appropriately. Now I did take a itemp probe from a RKL unit that I have. So I'm not sure if different probes where used. I do have a second SL1 but for some reason the values on the head unit says error for temp, pH and ORP. I don't have probes plugged in so I'm not sure if that makes a difference as my other SL1 still gives me values for pH and ORP with no probes. I also have a RKM-SL2. Same thing error for pH, Salinity Temp and I believe one of the switches. Does that mean those modules are bad? I don't want to purchase probes just to find out they are bad modules. Quite expensive test, wouldn't you say? Any wisdom would be Immensely appreciated.
 

n2585722

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There is a link in that thread for buying the parts to make the switch cables. They also have red and black wires with the sockets already crimped to the end of the wire. All you have to do is insert the sockets into the connector.

If the probe reads backwards you may need to reset that port in myreef with the controller up and running. You can check the probe if you have an ohm meter. It should read around 10k at 75 degrees and the resistance should drop if the temp increases and increase in resistance if the temp drops. There is a chart in the thread with the resistance values at different temps. You can also try a temp calibration for that temp port if you know the actual temp of the water it is in and see if that will fix the issue. The probes are the same. The only difference is the connector used on the cable.

As far as the modules with error on the ports some do show error without a probe depending on hardware and firmware of the module. If you have a pH and temp probe you can always connect them to the module in question to test the module Before you purchase more probes.

I was writing a guide for the Elite which I never got around to finishing. They kept changing things up to often. If you want a copy I can email it to you if you pm me an email address.
 

pjb9166

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Thank you for the information. I started reading this entire thread from the beginning. Slow read . I'm sending you a PM to swap emails.
 

debug3000

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what's the latest firmware for elite v2? with the company OOB, this software won't auto upgrade software right?
 

Fábio Cruz

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Looking at your screen it looks like the computer has a lower cersion than what is on the SID, RKL and SL2. see what is actually in the folder on the computer for the appropriate module. I have the following

SID 2.09
RKL 2.08
PC4 2.04
SL2v2 2.22

Those are the highest versions I have. If you want what I have for the modules PM me with you email and I will send what I have for each of those modules.
Danny, you just got a PM. I would like to receive the last firmware version of SL2 v2. Mine is 2.21 and my temp doesnt change or sometimes start drift. Another question, can I use a Neptune pH probe on SL2 and a Reefkeeper original pH probe on SL1 at same time? They should show me the same data after calibration? Thx for your support!!!
 

n2585722

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I have not used Neptune but have used Pinpoint and generic BRS probes before. I don't see a reason Neptune would not work as long as it has the BNC type connector.
 

pjb9166

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Hey All.. Hope all is well.
I'm banging my head against the wall. For the life of me I can't figure out how to calibrate and get a pH probe to work on the SL1 using the Elite. I've tried following videos on YouTube but they are all for the light. When I first installed the probe. It seemed to work. Just wasn't sure that it was correct because I didn't calibrate. When I tried to walk through what I believe should of been calibration when I select save on the home screen the pH stays at the " target" I was calibrating at. Either 7.00 or 10.00
Hope this makes sense and someone could walk me through this. Thank you in advance. Remember this is the Elite not light.
 

n2585722

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I don't remember. I will need to hook up the Elite and try it. I had it disconnected this last weekend. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to fire it up and go through a calibration. I have mostly SL2 modules but the pH should be the same.
 

pjb9166

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Thank you. This is frustrating. Like I said when returning to the home page. The reading simply displays the target that I "calibrated" at. Either 7 or 10.
 

pjb9166

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Ok... Got it.. After watching videos not just on DA Elite and light but others. The calibration sequence seemed to be 7 and then 10. That is not the case with the Elite. It wants 10 and then 7. I was forcing it and therefore would not work correctly. After calibration I dipped the probe back in the 10 solution and got a reading of 9.93. So not so bad.
 

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