Losing almost all corals

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Wyz1981

Wyz1981

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The only thing I noticed weird was my hammer was still extending but the hammers became micro sized over the couple weeks. Never seen one do that
 
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dieselkeeper

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The damage and stress from any major event can cause corals to die slowly meaning days / weeks or months after the event.
Much like a huge spike or drop in DKH and all is well, then a few weeks or a month later things die off seemingly with ''no cause''.
Sometimes it's what happened well before we notice the coral dead or dying that was a contributing factor or the exact reason.
 
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Wyz1981

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I could post my icp tests but the only thing showing bad is 900 silicates which I found out is coming from my RO. And showing 140 aluminum. I know silicates can cause diatoms but can it kill corals. Tank update today, nothing improving. Still slowly dying off. Move some corals back into old tank and they appear to be doing better.
 
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Next question. Got a salinity calibration fluid and found the Milwaukee meter that I thought was reading high is actually accurate and my salinity is 1.027 or 36 ppt. Can this cause my issue
 
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Wyz1981

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They look hungry to me.
What’s phosphate run at?
Look like you might be right. If I use the Milwaukee phosphate meter and the Red Sea they read 0. I was trusting the Hanna ultra low and it was reading .10. Pretty sure all the 0 readings are correct. Got the Nyos pro phosphate and it reads 0 also
 

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Look like you might be right. If I use the Milwaukee phosphate meter and the Red Sea they read 0. I was trusting the Hanna ultra low and it was reading .10. Pretty sure all the 0 readings are correct. Got the Nyos pro phosphate and it reads 0 also
Only Hanna ULR for phosphate or phosphorus. Make sure the cuvettes are clean inside & out.
 
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Wyz1981

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Only Hanna ULR for phosphate or phosphorus. Make sure the cuvettes are clean inside & out.
Yeah I do. I’m very cautious with that. Don’t know why it won’t read right. I even used the test fluid and it shows accurate. I’ve been doing this quite a lot of years but still fall for faulty tests at times.
 

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I’m not sure what the issue is chemically but from experience I’d assume that the ich product is what’s doing this and some corals are just having a more delayed reaction than others. I would try to mix a batch of salt and dose it and test the mix until it matches your tanks levels and temp and do 2 60% water changes if it’s hit the point there’s nothing to lose.
 

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Look like you might be right. If I use the Milwaukee phosphate meter and the Red Sea they read 0. I was trusting the Hanna ultra low and it was reading .10. Pretty sure all the 0 readings are correct. Got the Nyos pro phosphate and it reads 0 also
I have to dose 5ml Neophos daily in my 180g to maintain 15-30ppm, currently holding at 20ppb or 0.06ppm.
Two weeks after bumping, colour and PE returned.
 
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Wyz1981

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I have to dose 5ml Neophos daily in my 180g to maintain 15-30ppm, currently holding at 20ppb or 0.06ppm.
Two weeks after bumping, colour and PE returned.
I started dosing neo phos yesterday. Going to recheck today. The original Hanna phosphate checked the low range not ULR also agreed with 0. I’m happy the High dollar Milwaukee pro one is accurate though. I guess I should have trusted the manuals tests and the pro Milwaukee more than the Hanna ULR. Hopefully I will start seeing some improvement
 

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I started dosing neo phos yesterday. Going to recheck today. The original Hanna phosphate checked the low range not ULR also agreed with 0. I’m happy the High dollar Milwaukee pro one is accurate though. I guess I should have trusted the manuals tests and the pro Milwaukee more than the Hanna ULR. Hopefully I will start seeing some improvement
Perfect.
Many stress keeping really low nutrients but I found those levels really hard to manage with hobby grade stuff.
So I just elevate them a bit higher to ensure no zeroes ever. C847FC42-3C98-4854-B72A-EA25192E5C6A.jpeg
 
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ScottB

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I started dosing neo phos yesterday. Going to recheck today. The original Hanna phosphate checked the low range not ULR also agreed with 0. I’m happy the High dollar Milwaukee pro one is accurate though. I guess I should have trusted the manuals tests and the pro Milwaukee more than the Hanna ULR. Hopefully I will start seeing some improvement
While I cannot explain why the Hanna ULR isn't "working", if you really are 0 in PO4 I would definitely start there.

So assuming you are deficient in PO4, you can be aggressive with adding Neophos. The rock and sand (aragonite) is going to bind up the first bottle or two. Once the rock saturates a bit, it will begin releasing back into the water assuming it is less saturated.
 
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