Luc Vogels's 300+ gallon CoralCare Reef

FLSharkvictim

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Gorgeous build but I see you like to push your luck by installing your system on your laminate or wood floors A? Sooner or later, you're going to get some water on that floor. I am not talking but it overflowing, I am talking about the little drips that accumulate after a while. That's why I did my build on tiles in my FL room where my system sits and did wood floors throughout the house. Wish you all the best!
 
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Luc Vogels

Luc Vogels

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Gorgeous build but I see you like to push your luck by installing your system on your laminate or wood floors A? Sooner or later, you're going to get some water on that floor. I am not talking but it overflowing, I am talking about the little drips that accumulate after a while. That's why I did my build on tiles in my FL room where my system sits and did wood floors throughout the house. Wish you all the best!
Well.. that is one of the reasons why I am building the aquarium room in the garage. When the garage is finished I will empty the display tank (or move it temporary to the garage) so I can redo the floor in the living room . The aquarium stood there for 5 years and you can see some effects on the floor (but honestly, it is very limited). The new floor will be made with tiles (and floor heating).
A tile floor is much more practical to clean when you drip water over it. Thanks for your comment!
 
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Luc Vogels

Luc Vogels

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New week... new picture update!

In the upper left corner of the aquarium room I placed a shelf that will house the RODI unit.
I also mounted a water tap, power distribution socket and a drain. This way I am able to keep the cabling as short as possible.

The fragtank itself will be lid with 4 Coralcare fixtures.
I installed a Mupro rail frame so I can easily install and move the Coralcare fixtures above the tank. 4 lamps should be sufficient light for the fragtank :p ;).

The construction for the osmosis tank is now covered with water resistant multiplex.
I also placed multiplex against the wall but was short on material (hence the white L on the wall).
This will be hidden by painting the back of the osmosis tank black.

I also finished the technical cabinet (doors are now installed) and created a shelf (on the right side of the fragtank) on which I will place the dosing equipment and fluids.
The shelf is completely sealed and I installed a small drain (for safety). If a fluid container starts to leak or drip, the content will not end up in the aquarium.





Any tips or suggestions about the build?![/QUOTE]
 
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Luc Vogels

Luc Vogels

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Coming a long nicely, I am excited to see how you make your CArx, so please provide lots of pics:)
I finished the installation of my DIY calcium reactor.
The reactor now holds about 25 kilogram of media and keeps the Kh/Calcium levels extremely stable.

Something about the reactor:

The system runs on a 8-bit Atmel microcontroller and steers 3 channels (1 dosingpump, 1 C02 valve, and the circulation pump).
All control decisions are based on two inputs; A potentiometer to set the speed of the dosingpump (ml/hour) and a float switch to read the c02 saturation status in the chamber.
By knowing when you enable the outputs and reading back the status of the float switch you can determine if the system is working properly.

A simple example.. if you enable the C02 valve you expect that the saturation chamber is getting filled with c02 (and eventually hit the float switch so it changes state).
If this does not occur within a few minutes we know that the c02 bottle is empty.
Another example... We detected that the saturation state of the chamber is reached... then we wait i.e. 5 minutes so the c02 level in the chamber should be reduced.
If we check after 5 minutes that the state of the float switch is not changed, we know that the c02 valve is still open --> malfunctioning valve

based on these simple rules (and some additional logic to prevent false triggers during e.g. startup) the system works reliable and maintenance free.

The noticed that the new reactor of pacific sun also use the same principles.

 
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Luc Vogels

Luc Vogels

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Good news! The system in the garage is running. All the equipment that was previously in the cabinet under the display tank is now moved to the garage.

Glad to conclude the pipes in the floor are not leaking ;p

Pictures will follow. First have to install the remaining equipment and tidy up the electronics (wires)
 
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Luc Vogels

Luc Vogels

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This week I made a start to the electronics cabinet what houses all controls.

My previous control system was based on Philips Dynalite system.
The system is very reliable, but offers very limited features/use for aquarium control.
It is designed as an home automation system (security, lighting and blinds control) but I had them laying around so I used them as much as possible.

For the new cabinet I decided to expand this system with some real brains!
The main tank parameters will now be monitored (and controlled) by an Neptune Systems Apex controller.

The Apex controller will measure all tank parameters:
PH, ORP, Salinity, Temperature, Flow (5! sensors), water level and control the CoralCare lighting.
The dynalite system communicates with the Apex (via an I/0 interface) and is able to enable/disable certain outputs based on the readings from the apex (e.g. the skimmer, flowpump, Chiller, RODI.....)

The cabinet now contains:
12 relais channels that switch 24V (time based control, destined for the dosingpumps (fluids and food)
8 relais channels that switch mains voltage ((apex) event based, destined to enable/disable the skimmer, chiller, UV...)
8 additional relais channels to switch 24V ((apex) event based, destined to enable/disable flowpumps, returnpumps, auxiliary pump)

These inputs can be controlled via the Apex, 2 button pads on the cabinet, and touchscreen in the living room near my display tank.

I tried to run most of my equipment from a 24Vdc supply.
The system is supplied from a 20Amp 24V power supply to decrease the amount of seperate power supplies (and increase the overall system efficiency). Each device that is runs from the 24V bus is fused individually to prevent the supply from failing when one of the outputs has technical issues.

Tomorrow I will start with the wiring of the system (what is going to be a lot of work).. Will keep you up to date. Next week a package from Apex will arrive containing flow sensors, optical sensors, VDM module and the FMM... can't wait to start using these!




 

Ashish Patel

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I ordered the PVC duct raceway and its great to see how it looks open.. I am going to install some fans inside the cabinet, you do you plan to vent.
 
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Luc Vogels

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I ordered the PVC duct raceway and its great to see how it looks open.. I am going to install some fans inside the cabinet, you do you plan to vent.
Hi Ashish,
There is about 3mm between the doors and the enclosure of the cabinet. This is sufficient for some natural convection flow through the cabinet. I will monitor the temperatures, but do not expect much heat increase. The dissipation (power consumption) of the cabinet is also limited due to the efficient components.
 
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Luc Vogels

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Package arrived today :)!

Awesome, can't wait to get these going.





@Terence , Thanks for the opportunity and T-shirt ;)

Now I have to figure out how to convert these English pipe standard threads to metric pipe dimensions :)
 
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Luc Vogels

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Last week I installed my new osmosis filter.
It is a professional grade medical device (Gambro WRO 300 + WSF 300).
The unit has a high water throughput/output and produces very clean water.
There is a water softner system in front of the main filter so it is easier for the machine to produce clean water.

This filter ran for 20.000 hours and is out of service for medical (dialysis) applications, but performs still more than good enough for our aquatic application!
The unit will be controlled from my main control cabinet to generate osmosis water for water changes and to compensate for the daily vaporised water.

The shelf on which the device is placed is directly attached to the drain.
So if (for some reason) one of the connections is dripping or leaking, it will not fall in the below aquarium.





Fits like a glove :)
 

Terence

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Package arrived today :)!

Awesome, can't wait to get these going.





@Terence , Thanks for the opportunity and T-shirt ;)

Now I have to figure out how to convert these English pipe standard threads to metric pipe dimensions :)
You are certainly welcome!

Remember that the threads are BSPP so you can use most of the fittings that should be easier to find over there than here. Make sure to let us all know so that I can do the right thing when we adapt the product for the EU customers.
 
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Luc Vogels

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You are certainly welcome!

Remember that the threads are BSPP so you can use most of the fittings that should be easier to find over there than here. Make sure to let us all know so that I can do the right thing when we adapt the product for the EU customers.
I already implemented a few sensors and my first impressions are certainly positive.
I will write an update about it when I tested it a bit further. Finding the correct fittings was no issue at all..
I documented all the progress so you can expect detailed feedback.
 
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Luc Vogels

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Update about two smaller projects I finished this weekend.

Two switchable distribution boxes.
I stripped the original wiring and routed individual 1.5mm^2 phase/neutral wires for each socket.
I am going to place these boxes below the frag tank stand (one on the left, other on the right side) and they are used to switch equipment like the chiller and skimmer.



I found a nice cable for the project. 12x1.5mm^2 flexible stranded cable :p

Dosing station
I used OEM dosing pumps from the brand Kamoer.
They are durable, precise and very cost efficient (about 8 euros per pump head).
The 24Vdc are being switched from the main control cabinet.
I have 12 switchable 24V lines, so I took precautions to support potential expansion of the amount of pumps.

Another idea I had is to use 24V valves to implement tube cleaning function.
This could be handy for dosing Phytoplankton or Iron based supplements.

Example: We have two bottles (one filled with osmosis, the other with a to be dosed fluid).
We have a normal dosing pump and two valves. The one end of each valve is connected to the pump, the other end to a fluid container (both a different one).
Enable valve one (what is connected to the osmosis water) --> Start the pump and it will such osmosis into the tube (and eventually dose it in the aquarium).
Open valve two and close valve one --> The pump now sucks the to be dosed fluid in the tube.
Keep going until there is sufficient fluid dosed (or in the line).
Open valve one and close valve two --> Keep pumping osmosis until the entire tube is again filled with osmosis.
This prevents any clogging of the line and reduces the time a fluid stays in the tube (what is a bad think for i.e. Phyto).

What about it.. good idea or nonsense?

I think I will make a small testsetup before I really implement it. I got the valves already.





 

acesq

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reefwiser

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Luc what is the plastic box called could use something like that for a project. [emoji3]
 
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