Mehaffy's 1100+ gallon Plywood display in North Alabama

SirCrush32

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Time for a little update I will get new pics in the next day or two. I have now dosed an entire 2 liter bottle of PhosbanE and the Phosphate is at least at a measurable level. For the longest time the Hanna ULR Phosphate checker always showed 200PPB which is the highest reading it will show so I really had no idea how bad the Phosphate was. I now have it down below 100PPB but ran out of PhosphanE so I have more ordered from BRS which should be here in a couple days.
I am also having a little trouble with lights. I rebuilt the MH/T5 fixtures I had but the MH lights seamed to be fine I had only replaced the Ballasts on the T5 lights. Now the old MH ballasts (they are 15years old) are not working right. The lights come on but after about 15-30 minutes they start flickering like strobe lights. I also have some Kessil A360X that are not working right. So I have to make some serious lighting decisions. Like spend a few hundred or a few thousand. I could by new MH ballasts. The Reefbright digital from BRS are about $200ea I would need 4. Or I could rethink the entire lighting plan and go all LED. The MH ballasts are a lot cheaper but the MH are Hot, need new bulbs every 12 months and use a lot more power. The MH are just damed expensive up front. If I go Neptune SKY or Ecotech Radion XR30 I would most likely need 9 units at almost $900 ea. My wife has put up with this project and really supported but she might just freak out if I tell her I want to spend$8000 for some lights o_O o_O o_O
Tell her its just money you can't take it with you. :D If you can open up some of the lights and take pics of the board, I might have something laying around to help you. Possibly I could see if I have enough stuff build you a board, but I will have to go look which I don't have a problem doing.
 

bnord

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I did more fiberglass work today. This is so far the most time consuming and just plain nastiest part of the build. I will be extremely happy when the fiberglass work is complete. Right now all seams have 2 or 3 layers and all flat surfaces have 1-2 layers. I have used about 3 1/2 gallons out of the 5 gallons of polyester resin I bought. I may have to order some additional resin. I still have a lot of fiberglass cloth left so will not need any more of that.
IMG_3529.JPG
Following late - stunning work
 

Monkeynaut

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Time for a little update I will get new pics in the next day or two. I have now dosed an entire 2 liter bottle of PhosbanE and the Phosphate is at least at a measurable level. For the longest time the Hanna ULR Phosphate checker always showed 200PPB which is the highest reading it will show so I really had no idea how bad the Phosphate was. I now have it down below 100PPB but ran out of PhosphanE so I have more ordered from BRS which should be here in a couple days.
I am also having a little trouble with lights. I rebuilt the MH/T5 fixtures I had but the MH lights seamed to be fine I had only replaced the Ballasts on the T5 lights. Now the old MH ballasts (they are 15years old) are not working right. The lights come on but after about 15-30 minutes they start flickering like strobe lights. I also have some Kessil A360X that are not working right. So I have to make some serious lighting decisions. Like spend a few hundred or a few thousand. I could by new MH ballasts. The Reefbright digital from BRS are about $200ea I would need 4. Or I could rethink the entire lighting plan and go all LED. The MH ballasts are a lot cheaper but the MH are Hot, need new bulbs every 12 months and use a lot more power. The MH are just damed expensive up front. If I go Neptune SKY or Ecotech Radion XR30 I would most likely need 9 units at almost $900 ea. My wife has put up with this project and really supported but she might just freak out if I tell her I want to spend$8000 for some lights o_O o_O o_O
What would the energy savings be like to go LED? Power is pretty cheap around here but, I understand MH are pretty hungry for electricity.
 
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mehaffydr

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What would the energy savings be like to go LED? Power is pretty cheap around here but, I understand MH are pretty hungry for electricity.
Not really sure what the energy savings would be. The typical LED unit seams to be 100 to 150 watt and my MH are 250 so fore sure some savings but I don't really think I will see it on my electric bill.
 
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mehaffydr

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Thought I would just do a quick update on the build as things have slowed quite a bit.
I am still working to lower phosphates I have dosed 3 liters pf Phosban-E so far and they have dropped but still extremely high right now at .42.
I also have Cyno (go figure) with those out of control Phosphates. So tonight I added 1mill Hydrogen Peroxide per 10 gallon of water
Also trying to get things balanced out with auto top off. I had a scare last week and left my top off pump running and ran an entire Brute trash can of RODI into the system. Lets just say its a good thing I have 1200-1300 gallons because it did not seam to hurt anything. I did drop the salinity down to 28.2 and I am now slowly bringing it back up.
Good news is that the out of control algae has almost all disappeared so the refugium and lowering of Phosphate is helping.

No new fish additions as I really just need this tank more stable first.
Below is pick from today not much different than the last one.
IMG_4320.JPG
 

Cabinetman

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Try some seaklear industrial pool phosphate remover. It’s a lot more concentrated. I have about a 700ish gallon system and just 10mil of it does a number on my phosphate if I dose it into my skimmer
 

McPuff

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Try some seaklear industrial pool phosphate remover. It’s a lot more concentrated. I have about a 700ish gallon system and just 10mil of it does a number on my phosphate if I dose it into my skimmer
Does it have any effect on your fish? I read another thread where someone was using pool grade phosphate remover and noticed that even at low levels they were seeing a big change in fish (tang) behavior.
 

Cabinetman

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Does it have any effect on your fish? I read another thread where someone was using pool grade phosphate remover and noticed that even at low levels they were seeing a big change in fish (tang) behavior.
I’ve been using it for years. Just don’t add any more than 2-3 mils at a time in a system your size and you’ll be fine. I have lots of tangs..
 

bnord

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great to see it up and holding steady, and have been catching up on your build since the night the braves clinched - both amazing stories of grit, determination and phenomenal skill - amazing!

I get to Oakwood for work every now and then - how close are you?
 
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Sleepingtiger

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Just started reading this thread. Great build. Incredible work.

Anyone who wants to learn how to build a plywood tank should use this thread as a reference.

I am a DIYer and one of the things I hate the most is over engineered work. Yes its good that you over engineer on some things, but not its not really necessary to use 2x6 framing for a stand on a 55g tank. This build I feel is perfectly engineered.

One of the things I would of done differently is instead of using pocket holes and screws. I would of probably invested in a Domino XL. Stronger than any screw and makes wood joinery a breeze. Saves time from drilling, countersink and filling screw holes.
 
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mehaffydr

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great to see it up and holding steady, and have been catching up on your build since the night the braves clinched - both amazing stories of grit, determination and phenomenal skill - amazing!

I get to Oakwood for work every now and then - how close are you?
I'm only about 5 miles from Oakwood. Your welcome to come by.
Thanks for the support.
 
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mehaffydr

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Just started reading this thread. Great build. Incredible work.

Anyone who wants to learn how to build a plywood tank should use this thread as a reference.

I am a DIYer and one of the things I hate the most is over engineered work. Yes its good that you over engineer on some things, but not its not really necessary to use 2x6 framing for a stand on a 55g tank. This build I feel is perfectly engineered.

One of the things I would of done differently is instead of using pocket holes and screws. I would of probably invested in a Domino XL. Stronger than any screw and makes wood joinery a breeze. Saves time from drilling, countersink and filling screw holes.
Thanks.
That's definitely a cool tool but would have been quite the investment for 8 connections. that's about $200,00 per connection. Seriously I would like to have that tool. Of course I could find all kinds of uses for that if I had it.
 

bnord

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I guess I should be clear I am talking about Oakwood just NW of Huntsville AL.
thanks and indeed I was thinking Oakman, when I wrote Oakwood - near Jasper, and not near Huntsville - would still like to see your tankAND pond - it could be my next project
 
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mehaffydr

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You are welcome to visit just let me know when your in the area
thanks and indeed I was thinking Oakman, when I wrote Oakwood - near Jasper, and not near Huntsville - would still like to see your tankAND pond - it could be my next project
 

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