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Mehaffy's 1100+ gallon Plywood display in North Alabama
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So I have been going crazy trying to lower phosphate and it just seams like I'm getting nowhere. I have a 1000 gallon tank with about 1200 gallon total volume. Just some quick background I started this tank with a mix of about 200 lbs rock from my old system, 200lbs of Marco and about 200 lbs of dry rock purchased from other reefers. I did minimal testing the first few months other than Calcium, ALK, PH, Salinity and temp. Just figured things needed to have time to balance out and I needed to exercise patience. After about 3-4 months I bought Hanna ULR Phosphorus tester test in PPB. It was showing crazy high Phosphate. It was constantly showing 200PPB which is its max and per their conversion chart that's at least .613 PPM phosphate. So I tried a few things Like GFO which had no effect so then Phosphate E, which also had no effect. I was going crazy wondering where these Phosphates came from but because I did not know the background of all the rock I thought that might be it.
I only have 5 fish in 1200 gallons so not from feeding.
So I bought the Hanna LR Phosphate tester and tonight tested with that and what do you know .03PPM
So now my question is do the Hanna testers go bad? could there be something blocking the light? how do I know whats the real number? I need to either buy a Salifert test kit and compare or send off Triton ICP Test sample and see what that shows?
Any thought or incite is appreciated.
I did paste this in the general equipment forum also,
I only have 5 fish in 1200 gallons so not from feeding.
So I bought the Hanna LR Phosphate tester and tonight tested with that and what do you know .03PPM
So now my question is do the Hanna testers go bad? could there be something blocking the light? how do I know whats the real number? I need to either buy a Salifert test kit and compare or send off Triton ICP Test sample and see what that shows?
Any thought or incite is appreciated.
I did paste this in the general equipment forum also,
Wow that is crazy. I use the phosphorus tester to ( I think) pretty good effect.
Result X 3.0661 / 1000 = phosphate
Right? And you have the correct (Phosphorus) reagent right? The two are different. (I think a friend might have once made that mistake. A friend, mind you. I would maybe not make that mistake).
Lastly, nitrile gloves, no smudges or scratches on cuvettes, stored with RODI inside.
OP
OP
Yes for sure right reagent ULR Phosphorus, I have done a lot of tests and always shows 200PPB. I am sending off a Triton ICP test tomorrow. I picked some up Black Friday. I just though the rock was leaching out a lot of phosphate but now not really sure about that.
Whenever the cuvette turns blue, just stop there. You have too much phosphate. It was blue, right?
OP
OP
Yes it was blue but very light tint of blue
I didn't take in your last lines about the mismatch across the two Checkers.
Tough one. But the Phosphate test result at .03 should not be blue at all IME. And the other should be really blue. Baffling.
Absent a quality LFS or other hobbyist measure, I would say an ICP is the next thing, however you should note that it is well established that ICP results for PO4 come back quite low. @Dan_P and others have written on this and anecdotally I have consistently noted the same. Mine was always about 1/2 or less what my Hanna read. Triton and ATI.
I would do it though, given the huge divergence on your two checkers it should offer a clue.
Hopefully someone else comes along with more ideas.
OP
OP
The phosphate at .03 looked clear it was the ULR Phosphorus that had light blue tint. I just prepared the Triton Test I will ship it in the morning. I may buy a Salifert test kit just to try and figure whats going on. Its just such a huge difference I think it has to be a problem with the Hanna ULR but dont want to assume anything.
I share your confusion on the disparity. Thus all the stupid questions about math and reagents. I use the Phosphorus kit and my LFS uses Phosphate. My FEELING is the phosphorus is better for low range but they've not been that far apart before. Confused for now so I am interested in this dichotomy. Personally, I would play safe on the high side as dinos suck the life out of the reef and me as well.
OP
OP
I have stopped all removal of Phosphate efforts until I get the Triton test and then I will rethink the plan.
I don't have any Dinos but do have a little Cyano and a little Hair algae.
Have you calibrated the ULR? I know they sell the reagent on BRS. Maybe its off....way off
All good with that stop for now. Also fine with some GHA and cyano at this point. Kinda expected, right?
Nitrates now?
OP
OP
Nitrates are @ 5.4 today based on Hanna checker
OP
OP
I looked on BRS but could not find for ULR phosphorus. I will look again.
HI774-11 ULR Phosphate Standards for HI774 Hanna Checker
Ensure the performance of your HI774 Ultra Low Range Phosphate Checker with the HI774-11 ULR Phosphate Standards. Each kit includes two cuvettes, one sealed cuvette that will read at 0ppb of Phosphate, and then another cuvette that is tinted to an equivalent of 100ppb (± 0.10) @ 25°C. Each set...
www.bulkreefsupply.com
is this the right checker you have?
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OP
Thank You for some reason I could not find that one. Yes this is the right one. Again Thank YouHI774-11 ULR Phosphate Standards for HI774 Hanna Checker
Ensure the performance of your HI774 Ultra Low Range Phosphate Checker with the HI774-11 ULR Phosphate Standards. Each kit includes two cuvettes, one sealed cuvette that will read at 0ppb of Phosphate, and then another cuvette that is tinted to an equivalent of 100ppb (± 0.10) @ 25°C. Each set...
is this the right checker you have?
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A Hanna Checker that max’s out with a pale colored solution sounds defective. Testing the device with a standard phosphate solution will determine whether the Checker or the chemical is bad. The ICP measurement of phosphorous in general is too variable to be a useful benchmark.
OP
OP
It seams to be a good time for an update. I have still been fighting Phosphate but I am finally winning the battle. its been a long one. Phosphate was Over .6ppm and now down to .135 so still a way to go but at least its coming down.
I have added a few fish. I have added 6 blue/green Chromis they are cool just because they stay up in the water and swim around together.
I have added a small Leopard Wrasse.
I have also added a tang but there is some indecision about what the tang actually is. I ordered as a Powder Brown but it looks more like a White Cheek but consensuses from others on the forum is it may be a hybrid. Not really sure but I like him and really don't mind its not the powder Brown I ordered. i am going to start slow with some coral. My Pal's are growing again and Green Star polyps are coming out so things seam to be getting there.
Pics Below
I have added a few fish. I have added 6 blue/green Chromis they are cool just because they stay up in the water and swim around together.
I have added a small Leopard Wrasse.
I have also added a tang but there is some indecision about what the tang actually is. I ordered as a Powder Brown but it looks more like a White Cheek but consensuses from others on the forum is it may be a hybrid. Not really sure but I like him and really don't mind its not the powder Brown I ordered. i am going to start slow with some coral. My Pal's are growing again and Green Star polyps are coming out so things seam to be getting there.
Pics Below
OP
OP
Most likely both organics and bound Phosphate. the problem is I can't pull them out because I glued them together with Marco cement for stability. I just have to keep up with the Refugium harvesting algae and GFO. with time I will get the Phosphate at acceptable levels.
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