MH & LED Mix Help with par/photo period

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wrassie86

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It all depends on your coral plans and placement. I nor anyone else can tell you what's best par for your system since we have not seen it and have no clue on your stocking plans.
Good answer. No I have LPS that line the bottom. And starting to restock SPS for midway and top of rocks. I've had issues with dinos that wiped the tank out, those seem to be gone now. The few SPS I have now seem to be doing well and growing, but have lost a lot of color.
 

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Good answer. No I have LPS that line the bottom. And starting to restock SPS for midway and top of rocks. I've had issues with dinos that wiped the tank out, those seem to be gone now. The few SPS I have now seem to be doing well and growing, but have lost a lot of color.
Recovery is always slow.
2 things to consider to help with dinos. Is start dosing live phytoplankton and some redsea ab+ and also use some of the reefbrite liverock enhance.

My new system was dealing with Dino and cyano issues for a while. I dosed the 3 mentioned above and it cleared them both up within days. I continued dosing all 3 weekly , 1 every other day for over a year. Really seemed to get the system stable and aged without a real ugly stage.
 
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wrassie86

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So I have run into a problem I forgot about the last time I tried to use these vipaspectra lights, and that is when the lights are on i get a small shock when putting fingers in the water. that shock is not there when lights are off. My tank has a wooden canopy and the lights sit on a metal rail system adjustable for pretty much accommodating any lights. there are no light cords touching the glass, I do have a ground probe in my sump. not sure what gives here or how to fix it. Rubber pads under the lights maybe?
 

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So I have run into a problem I forgot about the last time I tried to use these vipaspectra lights, and that is when the lights are on i get a small shock when putting fingers in the water. that shock is not there when lights are off. My tank has a wooden canopy and the lights sit on a metal rail system adjustable for pretty much accommodating any lights. there are no light cords touching the glass, I do have a ground probe in my sump. not sure what gives here or how to fix it. Rubber pads under the lights maybe?
Odd, drivers and board are generally grounded to your house ground.
See this image and ground points:
KtbChbB.jpg

 
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wrassie86

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The house power outlet the lights are plugged into is an older outlet, possible 30 years old, I was swapping them all out and never got to that one or a few others. guess I start there and rubber pads where the light frames contact my metal rail system. I did just have the lights apart to clean the fans and heat sink and things looked ok.
 

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The house power outlet the lights are plugged into is an older outlet, possible 30 years old, I was swapping them all out and never got to that one or a few others. guess I start there and rubber pads where the light frames contact my metal rail system. I did just have the lights apart to clean the fans and heat sink and things looked ok.
If the lights plug has all 3 post there shouldn't be an issue with grounding.
 

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If the house outlet has no ground then the plug makes no difference.
Everyone should have one.. ;)
 
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If the house outlet has no ground then the plug makes no difference.
Everyone should have one.. ;)

I have one of those, the last 2 lights light up showing the outlet is correct. but funny i tested one of the older outlets on the opposite side of the room and get open ground, that outlet may be on a different leg.
 

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If the house outlet has no ground then the plug makes no difference.
Everyone should have one.. ;)

A 30 yr old house would be fully grounded to pass building codes. In most places houses even 2x that are.
 

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A 30 yr old house would be fully grounded to pass building codes. In most places houses even 2x that are.
Never rule out DIY.... ;)
I don't "assume" with stuff like this
What do you think the below means?
I was swapping them all out and never got to that one or a few others.
 
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A 30 yr old house would be fully grounded to pass building codes. In most places houses even 2x that are.
I wish that were fully true in my case. closer to 60+ years old (tank is in a newer addition) the deed was the building permit. inspections were not so much then if any. there was a time when I was considered mostly back woods. not anymore.
 
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Never rule out DIY.... ;)
I don't "assume" with stuff like this
What do you think the below means?
What that means is, when I bought the house the outlets were aged and heavily used over the years there were some you plug in a cord and it would fall out onto the floor lol. not to mention they were brown.. wife wanted them white.
 

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What that means is, when I bought the house the outlets were aged and heavily used over the years there were some you plug in a cord and it would fall out onto the floor lol. not to mention they were brown.. wife wanted them white.
Thanks...so no switching from 2 prong to 3 prong.

As noted above one should never assume things ... :)

Now if it' s your light what path could it take to your water?

Wood and glass are poor.
Saltwater and metal are good conductors.
Obviously..

Your light to the metal rails to.....?
Last, the water to you to ground.

A bit more.

Ground probe in sump should have taken care of it afaict.

Test outlet where it is plugged in.
 
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Thanks...so no switching from 2 prong to 3 prong.

As noted above one should never assume things ... :)

Now if it' s your light what path could it take to your water?

Wood and glass are poor.
Saltwater and metal are good conductors.
Obviously..

Your light to the metal rails to.....?
Last, the water to you to ground.
Yes, no switching from 2 prong to 3 prong and outside ground poles seem to be in good condition with no broken connections.

Well now were at the part that confuses me. The lights sit directly on the metal rails, the metal rails are screwed to wood canopy 16 inches above the water. The canopy is all wood.

The shock or buzz from the water doesn't feel like the normal broken heater or leaky ac pump shock... its different, more of just I'm here but not going to kill you.. just enough to feel.

Either way I got some rubber pads, going to see if they work or not.
 

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Do the vom on volts thing... probe in tank.. probe to known good ground.
Lights on and off..
More out of curiosity


Like I said, not sure why you aren't shunting it to ground with the probe.
 
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Do the vom on volts thing... probe in tank.. probe to known good ground.
Lights on and off..
More out of curiosity


Like I said, not sure why you aren't shunting it to ground with the probe.
So that was a good read and I think problem solved. I wound up grounding my light rail to an extra lead off my grounding probe. but I do wonder if the filtering circuit for 1 or more of my lights is the problem. and time for a new grounding probe.
 
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Finally got my 3 new 250watt ballast in, took power measurements and got 270 watts from the wall on the 250 setting and 285 watts on the super lumens setting, what difference from the old ballast. my hami 20k bulbs went from a blueish to a nice white with hint of blue, decided to ditch the viperspectras and went back to 4 t5s and 2 blue led bars. tank looks so much better!
 

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Finally got my 3 new 250watt ballast in, took power measurements and got 270 watts from the wall on the 250 setting and 285 watts on the super lumens setting, what difference from the old ballast. my hami 20k bulbs went from a blueish to a nice white with hint of blue, decided to ditch the viperspectras and went back to 4 t5s and 2 blue led bars. tank looks so much better!
Post the pics
 

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