Monica's Nano Build: 21g ADA-Inspired NPS Tank

monicalooze

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The tank (as of 04/16/20)
See my first post below this list.

TL/DR Design Constraints + Vision
No visible equipment and no background. The tank should evoke an effortless, casual tide pool in my living room with sponges, NPS corals, oddball filter feeding inverts, gorgonians, macros, mushrooms, and zoas. I did not exactly start with an NPS tank design, but I fell in love, and I'm taking on the challenge with enthusiasm.


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Equipment
Tank: 21g UNS 90L
Stand: UNS 90U
Powerheads: 1 Vortech MP10 (not added yet - will only add if necessary)
Filtration: Oase Biomaster 600 thermo canister filter (heater is integrated)
"Return + Overflow": Dymax Lily Pipes Aquario Neo Flow Pipes (made out of PETG - more flexible than acrylic, not breakable like glass)
ATO: Kamoer X1 doser (pre-calculated evaporation amount)
Light: 36" ONF FlatOne - Blue/White spectrum + hanging kit

Planned
Cooluli Concord 20L mini fridge (for liquid food)
RedSea ReefDose 4 Channel Doser (for liquid food)

Biological filtration
CaribSea Fiji Pink
KP Aquatics premium maricultured live rock
Marinepure Ceramic Bioballs (filled the entire canister)
PNS ProBio Purple Non-Sulfur Bacteria (both food and dissolved nutrient reduction)

Planned

Pacific oysters

Chemical filtration
Chemipure Blue Nano (only when necessary)

Livestock
Fish
4 Thread Fin Cardinalfish

Planned
8 more Thread Fin Cardinalfish
Orange Spotted Blenny (maybe)

Sponges
Bright Red Encrusting Ball Sponge
Red Photosynthetic Plating Sponge

Planned
Yellow ball sponges
Purple vase sponge

Corals
Zoanthids (random rock covered in a few cheap varieties)
Discosoma mushrooms (blue + red)
NPS Yellow Finger Gorgonian
NPS Purple Sea Whip
Purple Candelabra Gorgonian
Purple Frilly Gorgonian (with symbiotic neon yellow micro starfish)
Golden Plume Gorgonian (I think)
Gold Candelabra Gorgonian (I think)

Planned
Gorgonia ventalina (my holy grail - if I can get one)
NPS Chili Coral
More NPS gorgs
Superman discosoma
Ricordia Florida
Maybe a candycane + hammer coral

Macros (currently in safekeeping in my 10g cube)
Blue Hypnea
"Wyld" Dragon's Breath
Caulerpa prolifera (eaten by Ken the Mithrax crab [see safekeeping])

Planned
Blue scroll algae

Inverts
2 Nassarius Snails

Planned
Fighting conch
Standard clean up crew (trochus, cerith, astrea, etc.)
Red Fire Shrimp
Flame Scallops
Purple tiger scallop
Scarlet hermits
Barnacles
Pacific Oysters (also for filtration)
Sea Apple (yes, I know the risks)
Common Sea Star
Coco worms
Fan worms
Christmas tree worms + porites

Live Rock Hitchhikers
~3 Red Mithrax Crabs (from live rock)
Myriad unidentified crabs (from live rock)
Brittle + Serpent Stars (many)
Tunicates (several different kinds)
Encrusting sponges (red, blue, yellow, gray)
Fan worms (many different kinds)
Spaghetti + Medusa Worms
Small scallop (?)
Copepods
Bristle worms
Snapping shrimp
Unidentified worms (if I find a Bobbit Worm I will burn my house down)
Astrea snails (both dead - Leopard Polyclad Flatworm attack)
Leopard Polyclad Flatworm - living in a bowl in my kitchen

Additives + Food
Reef Nutrition Live Phyto Feast
Reef Nutrition Roti Feast
Reef Nutrition Roti Feast
Hikari Spirulina Brine Shrimp
Reef Frenzy Nano

Planned
PNS YellowSno
PNS Probio purple non-sulfur bacteria
Other additions as necessary

My first post
Hey everyone!

I'm just starting to plan my new nano build, but I'm hoping that starting a build thread will help me keep track of my progress better than last time...

I currently have a 10g Waterbox AIO that's been up for almost a year, but I have never been satisfied with it aesthetically. I don't fancy the black background, and although I have an extremely minimal set up (no skimmer, ai prime on the bendy arm, placed on furniture rather than a stand, etc.), it's somewhat of an eyesore when mixed with my vintage decor. This is not to insult anyone's tank; it just isn't working for me.

Cue my new inspiration: Takashi Amano FW tanks. I am absolutely enthralled at the minimalism, extremely thoughtful aqua-scaping, and the ikebana-like (Japanese flower arranging) vibe of these tanks. So why not start a freshwater tank? ....because I love the salt water challenge and uniqueness of having a literal tide pool in my living room. And I love the ocean.

So for this first post, I am looking for opinions and suggestions on the following plan (bonus points if you have a similar set-up)! I'm a designer (big surprise), so I've set the following constraints to encourage creativity and unique solutions.

1. Equipment must either not be visible or be extremely minimal (i.e. no big black power heads showing, disguised lights).
2. Lighting must look relatively normal and natural. I want this to look like a natural reef rather than cosmic bowling.
3. The stand must look like furniture, ideally with a mid-century modern credenza vibe (if I can pull it off).
4. Filtration methods must be simple and natural - I'm not a gear head.

In short, I want it to look like a casual tide pool in my living room...

Inspo:
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TL/DR: I want a minimalist, Japanese freshwater inspired reef tank that looks and feels as natural as possible, and I would like your opinions and suggestions on the following plan:


The tank
UNS 75S Shallow
1629894603058.png

Dimensions:
Length: 29.52"
Width: 17.72"
Height: 11.81"
Glass thickness: 8mm
Volume: 26 gallons

Lighting
ATI Straton + Kessil H80 Fuge Light
I will build or buy a rectangular lampshade to disguise the light and make it look more proportional to the tank.

Dimensions:
Fixture Size: 18.5"x18.5"
Lighting area: 15.7"x15.7"

*Concern: this light is wider than the tank. I'm still a new reefer, so I don't know if this could be mitigated by hanging the light higher? Otherwise, I'd probably have a custom tank made.

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The overflow

Mame Overflow OR (ideally) FW Glass lily pipes, but I have concerns about using a canister filter
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Filtration
KP Aquatics live rock shipped in water
Refugium
Filter Floss
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Substrate
Bahama Oolite Live Sand

*Concern: Very fine sand can blow around....but I'm not planning SPS, so the flow doesn't have to be that strong...
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Pumps
Varios 2 - if there is room in the sump

Sicce?
I'd like a DC pump if possible...
2 Nero 3 (or Nero 5 if needed) power heads, but hidden in the back, behind the rock
xv

*Concern: will hiding power heads behind rocks be an issue?

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Sump
Looking for recommendations here - I run an AIO now, so I don't know that much about sumps.
10g?


Heater
Innovative Marine Helios PTC Smart Heater - 200 watt
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Fish + Inverts
TBH - I think I want a single dwarf lion fish, but I have heard they can be hard to feed, and I don't think they can be housed with other fish.
If the lion fish can be housed with other fish, I would add 3-5 blue green chromis, although I have heard they sometimes kill each other.
And if not a lion fish, I want a maroon clown
Tuxedo urchin
Long spine urchin (maybe a bad idea?)
Fighting conch
Snails
If I go with the clown, I'll add a BTA
If I don't go with the lion fish, I'll add a fire shrimp and pom pom crab
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Coral+Macro algae
Softies and LPS, but not many - maybe macro algae of some kind
Thinking easy gorgonians, nepthia/sinularia, zoas, maybe a candycane, mushrooms, and maybe an acan or torch
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Controller + other gear
Profilux vs. Apex vs. Coral Vue Hydros???
Tunze ATO



Well....if you made it this far, I commend you. Thanks for all your feedback!!
 
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Devaji

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I like it. everything except the clown fish those there mean real jerks. haha

I am a reefer who will be setting up his 1st planted FW aquascape this fall. ( hopefully )

i'll be fallowing along to see how this goes. I am interested in the overflow.
 
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monicalooze

monicalooze

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I like it. everything except the clown fish those there mean real jerks. haha

I am a reefer who will be setting up his 1st planted FW aquascape this fall. ( hopefully )

i'll be fallowing along to see how this goes. I am interested in the overflow.
Given how many things are out of stock, I have a feeling it's going to be a while before I can actually start the build.
 

Devaji

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as far as sumps go there are kits you can buy and drop in 10-40 gallon tanks.
or just use 1/4" plate glass and silicone about 75%+ cheaper.

link:
https://www.fijicube.com/collections/sump-diy-kit
check out there tanks too. your's quite shallow with sand and rock does not leave much room for the gorgs to grow.

all depends on the features you are after. but those sumps kits are nice I hear.
 
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monicalooze

monicalooze

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as far as sumps go there are kits you can buy and drop in 10-40 gallon tanks.
or just use 1/4" plate glass and silicone about 75%+ cheaper.

link:
https://www.fijicube.com/collections/sump-diy-kit
check out there tanks too. your's quite shallow with sand and rock does not leave much room for the gorgs to grow.

all depends on the features you are after. but those sumps kits are nice I hear.
I was actually just thinking about that. Re: shallow with gorgonians. I might go back to the drawing board on the tank. It'll still be UNS 20-25 gal, but I may do the more standard rectangle.
 

lynaea75

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I’m just gonna put this here for you:

although maybe you already saw that thread?
gorgs and macros and lots of pretty!
 

howaboutme

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I'm doing a UNS 75s build right now. I don't have a build thread for that but if you click on my current tank's build thread (link below and under my screen name on the left) you can see some images of the build. I also have more photos here:

Do you have the tank? If not, good luck getting one. I pre-ordered earlier this summer and had to wait 2.5/3 months. Amazing tank though. I am using a fijicube sump and overflow and drilled the tank. I did tons of research and looked into the mame stuff. But honestly, I'd look somewhere else. Anything that is over the back is a non-starter for me. Those glass pipes are more gimmicky and more suited for freshwater. You'll likely get algae all over the pipe. Also, no, you don't want the light to be wider than the tank. Good luck!
 
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monicalooze

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I'm doing a UNS 75s build right now. I don't have a build thread for that but if you click on my current tank's build thread (link below and under my screen name on the left) you can see some images of the build. I also have more photos here:

Do you have the tank? If not, good luck getting one. I pre-ordered earlier this summer and had to wait 2.5/3 months. Amazing tank though. I am using a fijicube sump and overflow and drilled the tank. I did tons of research and looked into the mame stuff. But honestly, I'd look somewhere else. Anything that is over the back is a non-starter for me. Those glass pipes are more gimmicky and more suited for freshwater. You'll likely get algae all over the pipe. Also, no, you don't want the light to be wider than the tank. Good luck!
I know it's going to take forever to get everything. I have to build the stand and do a whole bunch of other stuff. Taking my time.

I'll look at the Fiji cube....I just *really* don't want an overflow visible, but you're right, the external overflows make me nervous. And as for the algae on the glass pipes...I was planning to get two Mames so I can just drop one in H2O2 and switch it out quickly.

I like the look of the lily pipes, but I've only seen a few people doing it. Dosing and ATOs seem like major liabilities in those tanks, but man are they pretty....

and I'm now looking at Giessemann T5 fixtures that are sized more appropriately. Talked to someone at ATI and he practically laughed at me because of how overpowered that light would be for a nano. I wish they made smaller lights that looked like iPads.
 
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monicalooze

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After some thought and your recommendations, I have more questions and I'm going to change a few things up.

I have big questions about lighting and the overflow design....

A tank switch
UNS 75S Shallow ----> UNS 60U
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There will be more space for tall corals and macros to grow vertically in this tank. I have also been having a heck of a time trying to find lights I like that will work with the dimensions of the shallow tank. This is a 20 gal, which is a bit smaller, and I really love small tanks.

Dimensions:
Length: 23.62"
Width: 14.17"
Height: 14.17"
Glass thickness: 6mm
Volume: 20 gallons

Lighting recommendations needed

I started with the ATI Straton light fixture because it is SO sleek, but the dimensions don't work with smaller tanks AND when I spoke with an ATI rep, he basically laughed at me because the light is SO over powered for a 20 gal tank.

I also wanted the ATI straton because it's an LED that can mimic T5s, and with macros + the color spectrum, I'm leaning toward FW LEDs or T5 fixtures....

Options:

T5 options:
Giesemann 4x24 Matrixx II (unfortunately not dimmable in this size, but it's very sleek)
ATI 4x24 Sunpower Dimmable (dimmable, but a bit clunky)

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LED options:
ONF Flat ONE Plus Pendant LED Light - blue/white 24"
UNS Titan 24"

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Overflow option struggles

As I mentioned, I want to go with a glass Mame overflow or glass lily pipes (but I don't think they can be connected to a sump....only a canister filter), however I'm obviously worried about the possibility of flooding. The way that I plan to mitigate that issue is through the Varios 2, which has a flood switch, and the Mame has a venturi siphon. BUT....a drilled overflow would still probably be the safer option.

Does anyone have ANY ideas about how to create an overflow can actually be hidden?

I looked at the Elos + Fijicube corner overflow options, but they don't make anything small enough, and they're black.

Is it possible to DIY overflows (YIKES)....I thought I could actually make it out of frosted light light blue acrylic with an opaque back and hide it in the corner. But....that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Or if I had it custom built, could I ask for that?

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TIA everyone!
 

howaboutme

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I'd suggest you go w/ LEDs because of tank size. T5's are governed by the bulb length as much as anything.

You will likely regret the mame or lilly pipe. Overflows are black for a reason. It's so algae doesn't grow inside. You also want an external overflow. That means the only thing in the tank is the weir. You have to drill of course. Did you look at my pictures? It will give you an idea. You can do the 400 gph fiji box. Remember, only the weir is inside the tank. The picture you posted above has the entire overflow inside, which takes up room in an already small tank. And, you still have to drill (this time on the bottom). Good luck.
 
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monicalooze

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I'd suggest you go w/ LEDs because of tank size. T5's are governed by the bulb length as much as anything.

You will likely regret the mame or lilly pipe. Overflows are black for a reason. It's so algae doesn't grow inside. You also want an external overflow. That means the only thing in the tank is the weir. You have to drill of course. Did you look at my pictures? It will give you an idea. You can do the 400 gph fiji box. Remember, only the weir is inside the tank. The picture you posted above has the entire overflow inside, which takes up room in an already small tank. And, you still have to drill (this time on the bottom). Good luck.
Totally looked at the pictures; thank you for sending the link! I'm honestly less concerned about the space being taken up inside the tank and more about how to best *not* see it at all.

Your design has a black PVC pipe down the back in addition to the black overflow box. I might be trying to do something impossible, but I want a reef in a clear box. I think the corner overflow would be easiest to disguise with rock. If I could build one that isn't black and partially disguise it with rock, algae would still be less noticeable than a big black box....IMO. I also want a minimalist aqua scape, so disguising both the plumbing and a box would be difficult without making the concession to add more rock.

It's an expensive and time-consuming hobby. Not only is it about art, science, problem solving, ambiguity, and learning, ultimately it should also be about aesthetic appeal. I keep looking at my 10g Waterbox while thinking about how much I hate the black background because it doesn't look right in my living room....but I love my pets and my tiny ecosystem. If my house had a different style...more modern, perhaps, it would be fine.

Maybe I should just do fresh water....o_O:eek::D;Nailbiting;Dead

Edited for clarity.
 
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Colt13

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We have similar aesthetic tastes, I’m currently gathering equipment for a similar objective on a future build. I am going with an external overflow, specifically Modular Marine in white. I’m going to be doing a white background (but spaced back a few mm so it gives a sense of depth) which will allow it to blend in.
As for lighting, you could get away with a single radion xr30 or hydra 32/64. If you just want low light corals a 32 would be fine. If you don’t want shadows though either 2 32’s or a T5 would probably be best
 
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monicalooze

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We have similar aesthetic tastes, I’m currently gathering equipment for a similar objective on a future build. I am going with an external overflow, specifically Modular Marine in white. I’m going to be doing a white background (but spaced back a few mm so it gives a sense of depth) which will allow it to blend in.
As for lighting, you could get away with a single radion xr30 or hydra 32/64. If you just want low light corals a 32 would be fine. If you don’t want shadows though either 2 32’s or a T5 would probably be best
A white background could work. I'll look into the overflow. I had no idea it existed! Keep me posted on how it's going.

How are you going to place the background a few mm back....I like that idea. What material?
Sometimes I wish I wasn't so obsessive. But I don't want to give it up, and apparently I like making things even more challenging...
 
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monicalooze

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@Colt13
As for lighting, you could get away with a single radion xr30 or hydra 32/64. If you just want low light corals a 32 would be fine. If you don’t want shadows though either 2 32’s or a T5 would probably be best
I think I want to go with something wide, sleek, and thin. It looks like the FW ONF one is also rated for saltwater....
 
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monicalooze

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Tank, Stand, Light - final decisions

OK! I believe I've figured out my main set-up, including the tank, stand, and light, which were still up in the air. Additionally, I believe I finally have a plan for an overflow that will be aesthetically pleasing AND less of a liability than the glass Mame overflow. I need to prototype it before I make the final decision, and if it doesn't work, the Mame will be plan B.

I decided against reinforcing my own furniture. It seems like too much risk, and the UNS stands are both attractive and they are able to hold tanks smaller than the top area, which is important to me for aesthetic purposes.

I'm going with a UNS Long tank because I like the form factor and the proportions with the stand. It's not quite as tall as the 60U, but I think it'll accommodate a beautiful aqua scape.

I also decided to take the plunge, and get the ONF light I mentioned in my previous post. The light comes in two versions....the blue + white can be used for corals and macros, but it hasn't been tested with SPS (except I'm not interested in SPS). Inappropriate Reefer did a 6 month trial of this light and it worked extremely well. I can create a T5 look that's dimmable, wifi enabled, and still has a customizable spectrum if needed.

I mocked up a few options in Illustrator, and I like this set-up best:


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Proposed Overflow Solution

As I mentioned in my previous post, I like the Elos/Fiji cube style corner overflow with a drilled bottom. Because I don't like the black box, I am going to prototype a version made out of frosted sea glass-colored acrylic, with the goal of using glass eventually. The design will effectively be the same, but the color will be different.

I believe I can effectively hide an overflow that's a more subtle color and on the side.

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I think I'm getting somewhere...next step is to order the components so I don't have to wait a year to get them...hopefully.
 

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I'm aware of the center brace; I've done a lot of reading. As for the back opening, when was the last time you looked at UNS stands? The current specs on open backs are in the image below.
 

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