Plus - there is a trend nowadays for people to limit aeration in order to reduce salt spray. As you alluded to, at night the CO2 level can then rise, dropping the pH. I need to know the AM and PM pH for my systems to ensure that isn't an issue.Anybody who experiences out of ordinary numbers.
My nano is right by my bed so the numbers can drop real low at night.
Also, anybody running kalk must monitor PH.
Dr Tim once said at a MACNA speech that in a case of biological filter failing nitrite will show up before ammonia. Also, If there is a die off of snail or a fish, so long as your bio-filter is healthy there should be no ammonia spike, only nitrate.Everyone says ammonia... but if something is really going wrong quickly, you should test things in this order: Alk, pH, Nitrate, Phosphate. That is (currently) the most influential parameters that effect coral health like RTN and polyp bailout. If all of these things are in the clear, something probably died in your tank and is beginning to nuke it, ie. mass snail die-off or a fish is rotting in the rockwork. Therefore..., ammonia would almost certainly be tested more than nitrite, making nitrite the least tested parameter. There's especially no reason to test for nitrites outside of a cycle unless you have confirmed you're getting a mini-cycle from die-off. Additionally, there is new evidence that corals absorb nitrite, so you may not even be able to register nitrite if you do have observable ammonia.
TIL! Very cool. I'll have to relisten to some MACNA speeches.Dr Tim once said at a MACNA speech that in a case of biological filter failing nitrite will show up before ammonia. Also, If there is a die off of snail or a fish, so long as your bio-filter is healthy there should be no ammonia spike, only nitrate.
What do you do once you know your PH? Nothing - just watch it change!Among many others, anyone with an Acropora dominant tank.