Moving an Aquarium Questions

[Hugh Mann]

So, my old lady doesn't much like the sound of the various equipment running on my 55 gallon aquarium, and has politely requested moving it to my basement. Fortunately for her, my tank is currently torn down to bare glass undergoing treatment for Velvet. I figure once that is done in a couple weeks, would be the ideal time to make the move, but have a few questions.

Reading about moving an Aquarium, lots of people seem to recommend buying new substrate, but never say why? So why would that be recommended? Currently have 40lbs of crushed Coral sitting fallow in a bucket, likely infested with velvet so switching that wouldn't be a problem, just wondering why it is often recommended.

In my head it's as easy, and from reading it should be as easy as putting fish in buckets, draining the water, moving, setting up, reassemble, refill and reintroduce the fish. Since I have to reassemble my rockwork and everything too, the fish would probably be out of the tank 2 hours, tops. Just confirming it is that straight forward.

While I'm on the subject, I plan to upgrade to at least a 125 in August, possibly a 150/180 if I can get a good price. Would it be much the same then, for moving to an entire new tank. Same rocks, filters, water, so I wouldn't have to cycle the new aquarium at all, right?

 

[35ppt]

People like to tell people to replace the sand because people's sand beds are usually filled with detritus and whatnot. And if you were having Po4 issues the Po4 will be bound to the sand. Both of these issues can be fixed with relative ease. I always just thoroughly rinse the sand. And if you have bound up Po4 you can treat it just like you would treat rocks.

When setting up the new tank you want to reduce the amount of time the rocks are out of the water as much as possible. You can also use paper towels and saltwater to keep them damp but I would focus more on reducing the time they're in the air. You want to avoid as much die off of bacteria as possible. It may be beneficial to plan out what you want to do with your rocks as much as possible before doing anything in order to reduce time out of water. Another thing to keep in mind is oxygen and temperature for the fish in buckets.

 

[Hugh Mann]

Thanks for the info. No po4 issues, but it was a bit dirty. Will just give it a good rinse before re adding.

As for the rock, does it need to be heated/have flow? Or just sit in salt water? It's going to be a few weeks before I can put it back in my tank due to the velvet treatment, and I don't have the equipment to keep 85lbs of rock wet, warm and flow.

 

[35ppt]

Thanks for the info. No po4 issues, but it was a bit dirty. Will just give it a good rinse before re adding.

As for the rock, does it need to be heated/have flow? Or just sit in salt water? It's going to be a few weeks before I can put it back in my tank due to the velvet treatment, and I don't have the equipment to keep 85lbs of rock wet, warm and flow.

Yep, if you want to use that rock without any cycle upon reuse you've got to keep the bacteria alive and that means keeping it wet, warm, oxygenated and fed. It can be very basic stuff and it's always a good idea to have a backup heater and powerhead. And it can be stored in a brute or tote, anything food safe that will hold water.

There was a study where they stopped feeding nitrifying bacteria for a month and upon reintroduction of ammonia the bacteria were able to process something like 85% of the ammonia almost immediately so they do bounce back fast but I would give a few ghost feedings or drop in some ammonia a few times over the week.

 

[35ppt]

I feel like I'm missing something. How are you keeping your rocks alive right now if your tank is dry?

/Your fish are in copper or CP QT right now?

 

[Matt Carden]

I've had 200 lbs of rock and sand in 2 - 55 gallon pickle barrels since September waiting for me to be done repairing/redesigning my SCA 150. Yes I kept a heater and a powerhead and occasional feeding.

 

[Hugh Mann]

Tank has water, and am treating the fish with copper in my DT, after taking out all the sand and rock, as I don't have a QT tank. I put my sand in a 5 gallon bucket, and most of my rock in a tote with water, a powerhead (only one), and a small heater. Don't need to keep it all alive, as my tank will have a small bioload (4 fish) after reassembly due to fish death.

I'll try and source a bigger container to fit as much as possible inside. As for feeding, is there any sort of specific source of ammonia, or what? I skipped this step setting up my tank by starting with already established live rock.

 

[Matt Carden]

You will have a mini cycle while the bacteria repopulate your now dead rock. This would start as soon as you add the dry rock so before fish would be ideal. This is the ammonia you want to feed bacteria:

I got this from Ace hardware but I'm sure you should be able to find it somewhere if they're closed. Just make sure it doesn't have soap or surfactants.

 

[35ppt]

You will have a mini cycle while the bacteria repopulate your now dead rock. This would start as soon as you add the dry rock so before fish would be ideal. This is the ammonia you want to feed bacteria:

I got this from Ace hardware but I'm sure you should be able to find it somewhere if they're closed. Just make sure it doesn't have soap or surfactants.

What he said.

This is what I've been using. I looked up the MSDS on this and it's just diluted ammonia:

 

[fishguy242]

hi in my opinion,if you open the sand bucket will smell like sewage,put in yard!,go bare bottom or replace

 

[Matt Carden]

guaranteed to smell like sewage if no circulation

 

[35ppt]

guaranteed to smell like sewage if no circulation

I know this first hand, my first tank came with a putrid bucket of sand. lol

 

[Rapidtransport28]

Tank has water, and am treating the fish with copper in my DT, after taking out all the sand and rock, as I don't have a QT tank. I put my sand in a 5 gallon bucket, and most of my rock in a tote with water, a powerhead (only one), and a small heater. Don't need to keep it all alive, as my tank will have a small bioload (4 fish) after reassembly due to fish death.

I'll try and source a bigger container to fit as much as possible inside. As for feeding, is there any sort of specific source of ammonia, or what? I skipped this step setting up my tank by starting with already established live rock.

I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to ever put copper in your DT.
Other that are more seasoned should chip in.
Double check on that please

 

[Hugh Mann]

Thanks for that everyone. I don't really want to have to buy more if it can be avoided, so I'll just toss it into the rock tote. Would it be beneficial to rinse it first, or would any accumulated waste/other debris provide food for the bacteria? Does it need light too? For long term storage.

 

[Hugh Mann]

I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to ever put copper in your DT.
Other that are more seasoned should chip in.
Double check on that please

I was told that's usually because the rock and sand can absorb and release the copper, playing havoc with dosage levels. Since my rock is all out, I would assume it would be okay. But with my current resources and the timeline of velvet, it was this or the fish die. Worst case I can buy a cheap used tank in six weeks.

 

[fishguy242]

i would give it a quick blast w a hose but not bleach ,let the bacteria help feed the cycle where you are at rt now as far as light i would say no..opinion only ,interested in others thoughts on this too..

 

[35ppt]

I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to ever put copper in your DT.
Other that are more seasoned should chip in.
Double check on that please

He removed the rock and sand so it will be fine as long as the tank and equipment are thoroughly cleaned and cuprisorb/carbon/polyfilter can be used as a precaution. I used my current DT as a large QT when I had a larger tank and now it's full of coral and inverts.

 

[fishguy242]

I was told that's usually because the rock and sand can absorb and release the copper, playing havoc with dosage levels. Since my rock is all out, I would assume it would be okay. But with my current resources and the timeline of velvet, it was this or the fish die. Worst case I can buy a cheap used tank in six weeks.

and go 75 you'll love the x floor space over 55

 

[35ppt]

i would give it a quick blast w a hose but not bleach ,let the bacteria help feed the cycle where you are at rt now as far as light i would say no..opinion only ,interested in others thoughts on this too..

+1 all that.

How long was the tank up? Is the rock you kept alive nice live rock covered in coralline? If so then I would keep the coralline alive with a cheapo light.

 

[hikermike]

Well.... you only really need 1 live rock to start a tank. This will quickly do the job. I'm now at the point where it only takes 3 days to cycle a new tank but too many members here will totally freak out if they heard how I do it. Due to a number of circumstances I've made 3 tank changes in the last 6 months...the last today becuz the the 45 yr old tank I found under the garage (an AGA now called Aqueon) sprung a nasty leak after 3 months in service (Why?). Today was no sweat as I saved the water and just replaced wastage. Also reused all rock and sand...after placing it in a bucket and decanting of the dirty water. All times had 100% survival including new corals although some took a long time adjusting to their new setting/siteing. Each time I'm always disatisfied with my aquascaping as it is never like it was before but wait....happens each time...means I actually liked the new scape...just needed to get used to it. (and let the engineer gobies do their thing!) Moving into a new same sized tank is like planting a garden...there's never enough soil/water left to fill the hole!. PLEASE NOTE: It may take only 3 days to fully cycle a new tank but it still takes 6 months to a year for the tank to MATURE! I know of no way to speed that up.