Shanel

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I'm super excited about this build. The Red Sea Reefer XXL 625. Tried to track all the progress as best as I could.

Day 1:
Modifying the filter
It's an AquaMaxx AF-1 Automatic Filter Roller. First thing is the 4 rods that hold it together are extremely brittle. There are some thicker rods they sent me after the first ones broke. I found the filter leaks between the seams. To counteract this I siliconed all the pieces together. After that I replaced the inlet fitting with a 1in bulkhead fitting. I took an inlet screen and super glued a piece of plastic to the end. I found just having it open as it comes from the factory, it blows the paper on the bottom up and then unfiltered water goes around the paper. I had to cut the ends of the nut on the bulkhead fitting so the paper guides could be removed and reinstalled. I found there was water flowing around the sides of the paper on the vertical ends to counteract this I used silicone tape to decrease the contact points between the paper and the walls. This is the same filter I use on my freshwater tank.
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Modifying the sump
I had to split the pump chamber in half to get the filter roller installed. There was not enough space where the factory plumbing went to. I drilled a 50mm hole between the filter roller chamber and the factory water inlet chamber. Next I cut and siliconed an extension over the refugium chambed for my fuge lights. The glass was too thick and the lights would not fit.


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Leveling the tank
I removed the floors of the cabinet and started the process of getting everything level. After adjusting and readjusting I finally got all the angles level.

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Day 2:
Installing the plumbing.
I purchased the return fittings for the smaller reefer tanks part number 42221. Bought some metric to 1in adapters. I can't remember exactly the metric size it was. All the bulkheads have the same size fittings. So the red sea return fittings fit both of the drains as well. Next I plumbed the filter roller with 2 unions and a gate valve to regulate the flow. After that i plumbed the emergency drain. So I had to compromise in this situation. To get the plumbing out of the way I actually created sort of a p-trap. Not really what I had intended but sacrifice is part of life. Besides if all goes well there won't be water in there but when something does fail ( and it will) its easy enough to pull out the pipe and drain it after the problem is fixed. Next i plumbed the return. I used an aquastation dc12000 pump with wave maker controller. I have used these pumps on my last tank and I'm using one without the wave maker turned off on my freshwater tank to drive the waterfalls. They are quiet and have served me well. Knock on wood. I used the georg fischer check valve and added a hose bib. Now I'm stuck on the uv sterilizer. I can't get a straight answer on if the aqua Ultraviolet 35 watt will fit. I'm planning on putting on the left side stand wall. There is 24 inches of space to mount something there. The body of the sterilizer is 20 inches. Nobody can tell me what the overall length is with the electrical connector installed. So no more plumbing until the problem is resolved.

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The weekend is coming up and more work to do.
 
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Shanel

Shanel

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So I reached out to BRS about the UV Sterilizer. Here is what I got back.

Your Question: what would be the overall length of the unit with the electrical connector installed, taking into consideration bending the wire at a 90deg angle without damaging it?

Answer: Hey there,
Thanks for reaching out to us. The length of the UV would not include the cord when installed and would make sure you have a couple of inches extra for a proper installation without bending/damaging the cord. If you have any further questions please let us know. Take care!

Don't you hate it when people don't answer your question? At least be honest and say I don't know. So I fire this email back to them.

Thanks for not answering my question. Way to loose a Sale!

So I get this back

Hey Shane,
Unfortunately we don't have exact dimensions and would recommend reaching directly out to the manufacture for such. Take care!

Pentair Eco-Systems (Formerly Emperor Aquatics) – 1-877-347-4788 [email protected]

So they give me the wrong manufacturers info. It happens and people make mistakes. The sad thing is I'm the customer trying to buy from them and not trying to buy from the manufacturer. That's not really customer service in my book. They want the sale they should contact the manufacturer if they don't know the info about the product they sell.

Emailed UV Ultraviolet and here is how that went

Question:
I would like to buy the Classic 25 watt uv sterilizer. I'm not sure if is going to fit in the space I have which is 24 inches. The length of the sterilizer body is 20 inches but it does not say the total length of the sterilizer with the electrical connector installed. I need to know the required space to install this sterilizer without damaging the wiring.

Answer:
Thank you for your inquiry. The Transformer connection (Transformer Cap and Davis Connector) is an
additional 2-1/2".

So here we go again. At least this time we got 1/2 an answer. Fired my response back.

Are you telling me it would fit or are you telling me it wont fit?

This was the response I was hoping for.

You stated you have 24" in length available, the UV is 20" plus 2-1/2" for the Transformer Cap and
the Davis Connector. The electrical cord should flex enough to clear a wall. We're talking about a horizontal
install with the inlet / outlet pointing up to the bottom of the tank, correct? You're dealing with a tight fit so you
want to make sure your measurements are accurate.The UV would need to be removed to change the Lamp.
We can give you the measurements, but the decision is ultimately yours to make when deciding whether or
not to install.

Finally got my answer. Sadly it was like pulling teeth.

UV Sterilizer is now on order.
 
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Shanel

Shanel

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Day 3:
I siliconed some Key Largo Prime Cut Rock to the back wall and skimmer. I had to do this in stages and let the silicone dry between the rocks that were being stacked on top of one another. Ran out of both rock and silicone. That never happens, LOL.


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Day 4:
Installing the lights. These are Popbloom Reef LED's. Model Turing 30. Installing 4 of them. I'm also installing 2 Orphek 24" UV/Violet LED Light Bar's.

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The wiring is not long enough to keep all the power supplies inside the cabinet. So I have to make extensions for the power supplies. I tie strapped the wiring at the lights and then cut the ends right below the tank. Installed water resistant connectors on the ends of the harnesses. I tagged all the harnesses with numbering so that if I ever have to trace any wiring it will be easy.

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Next came the power supplies. Added connectors to the ends.


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Mounting the power supplies. I used some 3D printed universal brackets for the Popbloom power supplies. The Orphek power supplies came with mounting tabs. Installed a surface mount outlet fot the Orphek lights. Cut the excess wiring and installed new 120v outlet plugs. Ran out of time for the day. TBC

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Shanel

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Day 5

Installing the doser pump and tank. Decided on a coral box setup. Read a lot of mixed reviews about this system. Figured I'd give it a shot. Installed the doser unit and outlet for power. I bought Cobalt Aquatics Premium Silicone Tubing in different colors. Used 1/4 tubing holders to secure the tubing. I Installed the holders backwards so the open end of the holders were facing the cabinet. This made them more secure. Installed check valves in the mount at the sump. Installed check valves in the suction lines of the doser heads. From reading reviews on this setup this was the preferred method of install. I did notice the tubing didn't really go on the fitting really tight. Reading the reviews most used clamps. The system came with some orange Silicone Tubing that fit tight. I install the tubing on all the fittings and cut the ends right at the fittings. After that the Cobalt Aquatics Tubing fight really tight. I feel confident that there will be no leaks. Then I finished installing the outlets for the lights.

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Day 6

I installed the Aqua Ultraviolet Classic 25 watt on the left wall of the sump cabinet. It was like putting a jigsaw puzzle together. I used the aquastation DC5000 pump i had on my previous tank. I plumbed it in so it's also my backup pump. I can open one valve and close another to get water returning back to the tank. I'm planning on adding a flow sensor to dial in the flow on the uv light later. Installed a check valve on this pump as well.


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Day 7

Installing 2 Aqamai KPS's and 2 KPM's. I opened up the controllers and soldered new input and output wiring onto the boards. Installed a power supply and fuse panel in the cabinet to power all 4 of them. Installed the cabinet led light controller. Next was the 24v power supply I'll use for the sump pumps. After that I installed the eb8 energy bar and wired all the 120 outlet ends.

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Day 8

Installed some of the outlets in the sump cabinet. Mounted the ballast for the uv light.

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Day 9

Siliconed and epoxyed Marco Premium Flat Cut rock to the back wall. Another jigsaw puzzle.

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Still more to do. It's never ending..
 
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Shanel

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Day 10,

Installed Apex head unit. I ran the probe wiring through it's own raceway. So when I was setting this up the probe holder fell off the glass and landed inside the sump. Only fell like 15 inches at best. This junk broke from the fall. Apex's probe holder is very brittle and magnet is not so strong. You'd think for 40 dollars it would be tough. Got out the superglue and back in business. Seems to be holding well right now. I didn't realize the EB8 had issues with shutting off under low wattage. So I'm going to install my EB832. Had to relocate the previously installed EB8.



Day 11,

Installed the EB832 and finished wiring all the 120v outlet ends. Installed the drivers for the sump pumps. I found these BLDC motor controllers and they accept 0-10 volt input to control the speed. So i figured I could hook these up to the VDM. Installed a fuse panel for the 24v power



Day 12,

Wiring the I/O ports on the Apex head unit to the float switches in the sump. Installed raceway and outlet housing with brush plate. Installed connectors on the float switchs. I have 1 float in the skimmer. Trying to find one just a bit smaller to it doesn't trip when it's 1/2 full. Thought I found one but when I measured it out it was too short so looking for one in between. 1 have a dual float and single float in the return pump chamber. Dual float for the ATO and single for low water level detection. Put 1 float in the overflow lid and one in the top of the sump to detect high water level. Both wired on the same input. It won't let me know which take is has high water level but will let me know there is an issue.



Day 13,

Installing the Apex add on modules. I have a PM1 that will be used for 6 rocker switched. PM2 will be used for an additional 6 rocker switches. VDM for controlling the sump pumps. FMM for the flow sensor that will be installed in the UV Light return pipe, 2 water leak sensors that will go under the stand and the 24v port will be used to power a relay. The relay will then in turn control the power to all the switched. This way the Apex could turn off some or all of the switches, haven't decided yet. LSM will run the moon lights.
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Shanel

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Day 14,

Finished wiring pumps and level sensors in the sump. Installed 2 led light bars in sump. Installed and wired ATO pump. Used 1/4 push to connect union with a hole drilled in the center as a siphon break. Shaped tubing to route into the stock Red Sea ATO shut off vale (Float type). Started routing the wiring for the FMM, PM1, PM2 and pump controllers. Installed the flow sensor for the UV Light.

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Shanel

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Day 15,



Building the interface controller. This will interconnect the rocker switches with the apex. With these lighted rocker switches you can't ground the apex inputs. Soldered some reed relays to a circuit board. The rocker switches control the relays and the relays ground the inputs. The rocker switches will also control the Aqamai KPS's and KPM's relays. The relays are installed in the ground circuits of the powerhead controllers input power (12v). The Skimmer, UV Pump and Return Pump are also controlled by relays. The relays are tied to the EN and GND (on/off) circuits of the BLDC motor controllers. The rocker switches control the relays. The 2 FMM modules 24v accessory ports control two relays. These relays supply power to the switches. One controls the Feed Mode Switch Power and the other controls the remaining switches power. The Feed Mode can be started by the apex or by a momentary rocker switch. The apex controls the feed mode relay and switches off the power to the switches. This turns off the Skimmer Pump Relay, UV Pump Relay and the Aqamai KPS Relay. By doing this the reed relays turn off and the apex see the inputs are not grounded any longer. So the apex will turn off both Reactor Outlets and the UV Light Outlet. Next cut out some wood to build the Rocker Switch Box. Glued and Screwed the pieces together and filled the voids with wood filler.

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Shanel

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Day 16,

Sanded and put second layer of filler on Rocker Switch Box. Installed the switch interface. Installed the KPS and KPM Relays. Wired the 12v power and ground. Wired the KPS and KPM Relays. Wired the FMM Relays. Sanded the Rocker Switch Box and painted it.


Day 17,

Sanded the Rocker Switch Box and put second coat of paint. Started wiring the back of the tank. Ran raceways on the back side of the tank and cabinet. Started building and installing the extension cables between the lights and the power supplies.


Day 18,

Installed 2 Apex AFS. Installed 2 fans on sump chamber cabinet. Installed the led light controller and ran extension harness from controller to light. Install Ultralife Titanium Ground Probes in the display tank and in the Return Pump Chamber.


Day 19,

finished wiring the back of the tank and cabinet. Wired the led light bars for 2nd cabinet in the stand. Secured the wiring inside tge cabinet. Wired the Energy Bars and ground probes into an APC. Installed an intake pipe to skimmer from Co2 scrubber. Installed a skimmer cup drain. Reassembled the sump.


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Shanel

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Day 20,

Finished installing the Co2 scrubber. Installed the Apex Display. Tried to put final coat on Rocker Switch Box but was raining and paint blushed. Mounted and adjusted the doors. Turned on the Apex and mapped the 120v outlets. Next I will have to research how to program the Apex. This is my first one so it's new to me. Few things left but after programming the pumps and installing the Switches it's ready for water. Then i need to build the screen cover and mount 2 led light bars. Then just playing around with the programming. I see the light at the end of the tunnel. Hallelujah!

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Shanel

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Day 21 & 22,

It took 2 days to fill this tank. I guess my RO/DI/UV filter only puts out about 100 gallons a day. I added about 1/4 gallon of 12% peroxide to the tank to disinfect it. Programed the KPS & KPM pumps. I forgot what a cluster the Aqamai app is. I'm hoping I can find or build pump drivers that I can hook up to apex. No luck so far so any help would be appreciated. Read up on programming the apex. Turned on both reactors, return pump, uv pump, uv light & skimmer. The Return Pump runs good at 70%. The UV Pump runs good at 80%. Set the flow for the UV Light at 400 GPH. This gives me 90,000µw/cm². Now the Skimmer right now is set to 60%. It will not run at 100%. The controller just faults out with a solid red light. The controller is a WS55-180. Tried swapping with another controller but does the same thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated on this. Turned on all the lights. Now with everything running and lights at 100% it uses too many watts for my battery backup. Now I have to rewire 2 outlets to even out the wattage per Energy Bar. Then I will add a second battery backup. Next comes a real mystery for me. After running this the GFI tripped. Found that the ground probe i put in the display tank was wicking water all the way to the plug in the battery backup. I have no idea how this is possible. Again help is needed. I adjusted the ATO Float Switch and programmed. Seems to be working out good. Pump runs about 1 minute every 4 to 5 hours. Programmed the Float Switch & the Defer time for the skimmer. Calibrated the ph probe. The continuity probe is a royal pain took 6 times to pass calibration. After calibration it read over 39. All day long is been creeping to a low point of 23. Then climbing back up to 32. I calibrated my refractometer with 35. Tested the water and its right on at 35. Hope I can get this stuff figured out.

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hi recommend ground probe in both dt an sump,dif circuits if possible, roll drip loops on weeping keep eye on ,in past i have slipped rubber washer on gp from sump just below top of sump,lil loose secured with plastic tooth pick ;) :)
 
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Shanel

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Actually I have two ground probes, one in the return pump chamber and one in the display. They are Ultralife Reef Products AULGP10 Ultra-Ground Titanium Ground Probe. The picture i posted only shows the sump probe connection. I had already removed and traced back the display tank probe to figure out which one was wicking. I don't understand how the water could travel like that. The wire has a loop in the top which is higher than the water level. I still don't understand how to keep the water from traveling between the wire and the wires sleeve.
 
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Shanel

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20200922_193530.jpg


In the corner between the overflow and the light arm mount is where the probe is. The rod travels behind the rock so it's kinda hidden.


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This is the sump mounted probe. I want to make sure this one doesn't start wicking. Look to the right of the float switches.
 

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