My Green Slimer went from this...... To this..... PICS--Acro Help Please

[mcarroll]

I use this filter floss- Poly Value Pack

Is this what your talking about?

That is a negative! ;-)

Poly Filter is a color-changing adsorbant resin in the form of a sponge/filter pad made by Poly Bio Marine.

Anyway, as it sorbs chemicals it changes color based on the chemical - blue for copper, for example. I would link you but it's not so easy right now. Google "poly filter" and you'll find tons of info on them - been around for decades and is a very inexpensive, reliable solution. I know many people who run them on established tanks as a standard part of their filter regime. (Not nessary for most people, but good option if you need it.)

Even if your Cu test comes up negative, I would highly recommend you run one of these pads as it may just be something bad other than copper in your tank.

Good luck and don't give up hope!

-Matt

P.S. I did read the thread and I wouldn't point you to regular filter floss as a solution after all that. ;-)

 

[JDK]

UPDATE:

I picked up a Salifer Copper test at the LFS on my way to work yesterday and tested last night when I got home.

There IS copper in the tank! I tested the tank water, fresh RODI water out of the filter, and the tap water itself-

Tank Water- 0.1
RODI Fresh Water- 0.1
Tap Water - 0.1


What do these levels mean? After reading some articles over on that other forum if I can detect it with a hobby grade test kit then it is definately TOO much. Is this correct?

TDS test on the fresh RODI water is reading 1. Going to switch out my DI cartridge on my RODI tonight and test with the new DI resin cartridge (Have brand new one on hand). If it still tests 0.1 I am not sure what to do? I am using and AirWaterIce Mighty Mite 4 stage RODI. 3 membranes and 1 DI resin cartridge. It is only about 9 months old.

I also bought some Seachem Cuprisorb online it should be here this week. Will try and find some polyfilter floss locally before I buy it online.

PS- Blue mille looks terrible. Brown stuff growing on the upper braches which are obviously dead. Should I snip the top off and leave the base?

 

[Young Frankenstein]

Copper = poison ................looks like you nailed it !!!!

 

[Pkunk35]

How can he have a detectable amount of copper in the system while retaining healthy clams and other corals? Isn't copper supposed to be toxic to all invertebrates? And how can your RO DI have copper in it, isn't that stripped out?

Either way, 100% agree that some sort of removal precaution should be done, here is a link to poly filter on amazon, great stuff: Amazon.com: Poly Filter 4 x 8: Pet Supplies

Really hope this is the answer, JDK!

 

[tangs are awsome]

I am sorry to hear your other sps is not doing well also. Think back if you added any water from the fish store when you added fish. Sometimes they dose with copper. One more crazy thing to try is if you have tile in front of your tank make a small puddle. Stand in it bare foot and then stick your hand into the tank. if you get a small shock you have a pump or power head with exposed copper in your system.. I would also try the iron trick if you notice that no algae or other good stuff is growing after this you have to have some kind of pollution. Stop feeding your fish all together. they eat crap off of the walls of the tank and extra coral food . Maybe once a week if you have to. Where is you water source from? is it a store with RO DI water or something else. Water runs through copper pipes before it gets to your house or your local fish store. I had the same problem that's why I am so compashionate about yours. Mine was the water I had been using to mix. I was adding .5 phosphate for a year and finally tested my ro system to find that it was the culprit. A nice DI system fixed that problem. I also lost about $2,000 in coral chasing the problem. In the future try using rubber bands to hold coral in place I know it sounds tacky but it works and when the band goes you can pull it out and use a new one. Epoxy has to many issues. Maybe it is the epoxy that caused your problem in the first place. This is a long shot but how does your refugium look does it have any green plants in it at all or any algae?

 

[tangs are awsome]

Wow you have really big problems just cauhgt the copper thread. DO a 100 % water change now and another %50 change in two days and another in two more days the trick to all of this brother is real ocean water. Buy it import it drive 10 hours to get it this is the only way your source is contaminated you are in real trouble. Please head this advice you NEED REAL OCEAN WATER NOW. Or find a clean source of h20 change out all filters in your ro system and get a tds meter on it asap.

 

[wooboodoo]

Subscribed and I dont want to hijack your thread just have a couple of questions to all of you guys...
I can't complain about my green slimer color (I think) the polyps are fine, but this coral starts dying from the bottom and I have no idea why...
It's very slow process not like usualy few days and coral is gone this one is dying very slowly from about one month...
Here is a pic how it looks right now:

And here from the top:

Thank you in advance for any help.


My other corals doing good and I dont see any problem
here are few for example:

valida

red planet

my montis

or gb

 

[JDK]

How can he have a detectable amount of copper in the system while retaining healthy clams and other corals? Isn't copper supposed to be toxic to all invertebrates? And how can your RO DI have copper in it, isn't that stripped out?

Either way, 100% agree that some sort of removal precaution should be done, here is a link to poly filter on amazon, great stuff: Amazon.com: Poly Filter 4 x 8: Pet Supplies

If my DI resin is used up the RODI could be missing the copper. My fresh unmixed RODI tested the same level as the tank. The tap water out of the sink also tested the same level so it is NOT being removed by the RODI for one reason or another. Going to change the DI resin tomorrow and test the water coming out to see if expired/used up DI resin is the reason the copper is not being removed from the tap water.

Found poly-filter at my LFS will pick some up tomorrow. Also ordered cuprisorb online.

 

[JDK]

I am sorry to hear your other sps is not doing well also. Think back if you added any water from the fish store when you added fish. Sometimes they dose with copper.

Nope. I drip acclimate then net them out. I added fish a few weeks ago. Corals have been going south starting two months ago. This is not logical??????

One more crazy thing to try is if you have tile in front of your tank make a small puddle. Stand in it bare foot and then stick your hand into the tank. if you get a small shock you have a pump or power head with exposed copper in your system..

Already tested for stray voltage with a multimeter. I beileve this was noted earlier in the thread

I would also try the iron trick if you notice that no algae or other good stuff is growing after this you have to have some kind of pollution. Stop feeding your fish all together. they eat crap off of the walls of the tank and extra coral food . Maybe once a week if you have to.

Chaeto grows. Not going to stop feeding fish. How is this related to Copper? My phosphate and nitrate levels are listed almost day by day throughout the thread. Please read.

Where is you water source from? is it a store with RO DI water or something else. Water runs through copper pipes before it gets to your house or your local fish store. I had the same problem that's why I am so compashionate about yours. Mine was the water I had been using to mix. I was adding .5 phosphate for a year and finally tested my ro system to find that it was the culprit. A nice DI system fixed that problem.

Come on man read the thread this is all talked about over the past month. DI? This is one page ago. You have to read ALL new posts to be able to accurately respond.

I also lost about $2,000 in coral chasing the problem. In the future try using rubber bands to hold coral in place I know it sounds tacky but it works and when the band goes you can pull it out and use a new one. Epoxy has to many issues. Maybe it is the epoxy that caused your problem in the first place. This is a long shot but how does your refugium look does it have any green plants in it at all or any algae?

Epoxy has been used for years in this hobby and is not the problem. If reef-grade epoxy is killing corals call the EPA. Yes chaeto grows in fuge this has been discussed in previous posts. How many times am I gonna have to say this. I appreciate your concern and advice but I feel like a record player here.

 

[JDK]

This is the plan of action for copper removal from tank:

1. Switch DI cartridge and test new RODI water for copper. Should be undetectable if the DI is expired and is to blame. Also will use fast flush on RODI unit to flush system out for a good hour or so before new cartridge is installed.
-If copper levels are still detectable after new DI cartridge is installed I will have to find a new source of water. Will first try and get either distilled H2O from the grocery store or Natual Sea Water from the LFS. Will test both for Copper.

2. 100% Water Change with Copper free water and run Poly-Bio-Marine filters from LFS
3. Add a filter sock with Seachem Cuprisorb in a high flow area (media basket)
4. Test tank for Copper- Should be undetectable with Salifert Copper test kit.
5. Save my corals.

If this does not work and I can not get the copper down after copper free water changes/ Poly-Filter / Cuprisorb...... Then I dont know?

Any advice in copper removal from here on out and my plan of action is much appreciated.

 

[Lateral72]

If you change out the the filters (AND the DI resin) on the RODI, and you're still reading Copper in your RODI water, I would suspect an inaccurate test kit.

 

[JDK]

If you change out the the filters (AND the DI resin) on the RODI, and you're still reading Copper in your RODI water, I would suspect an inaccurate test kit.

I was under the impression that only the DI resin removes the heavy metals? Do the filter membranes remove copper as well?

 

[JDK]

Regarding the inaccurate test kit...... I am getting some poly-filter tomorrow which should change colors if copper is present in the tank.

 

[tangs are awsome]

I am not trying to be rude either but you have stated that things in your thread that are not consistant. Now that you have tested the water before you mixed your salt like I sugested in the first reply you are finding a problem. I am only concerned for you and your tank. Just so you know your ro system is only good for 6 months to a year depending on the amount of tds in your paticular area. I do not know what part of town you are from I am going to guess you are land locked because of the inability to get real ocean water. And the DI can start to fail as early as 4 month. May the tank gods have mercy on your tank good luck. If you find a grounding rod is always a good addition to your aquarium as well. If you don't succeed try and try again. Further more any Kent marine products have been found to have copper in them as well I refuse to use any thing made by Kent. They had a big recall. I do apologize if I sound redundant but there are only a few possible problems in a closed system. I am running 100 gallon reef tank and know that stuff will happen when it is least expected.

 

[JDK]

TDS out of tap water = 143
TDS out of RODI = 0

Have tested for phosphates of every type of water in the past when things started getting worse with the acros. Tested tap water, fresh mixed SW. I used red sea salt with is supposed to be real ocean salt from evaporated sea water.

I was under the impression with a TDS at my level an RO membrane would be good for 3-5 years. The DI is another story I realize chloramine and other tap water contaminants can eat DI resins up fast.

What do you find to be inconsistent in the thread? Maybe I can clarify.

 

[JDK]

After changing 3 filters on RODI unit (DI, Carbon, Sediment- unit is an AWI Mighty mite 4 stage) copper is reading 0.

Copper reading out of tap is still 0.1
Copper reading of tank water is a little less blue than the 0.1 reading

Mixing up 20 gallons of fresh RODI water with new filters
Picking up BioMarine Poly-Filter this afternoon.

Mille is almost totally dead on top. Think I will snip the top off and save the base?
JF unknown acro is showing burnt tips and burnt edge at base. This may have been from alk rising a little when the lights were lowered. The lowering of the lights slowed down calcification and ALK consumption causing it to rise above the 8.4-8.6 level I keep it at.

 

[Young Frankenstein]

After changing 3 filters on RODI unit (DI, Carbon, Sediment- unit is an AWI Mighty mite 4 stage) copper is reading 0.

Copper reading out of tap is still 0.1
Copper reading of tank water is a little less blue than the 0.1 reading

Mixing up 20 gallons of fresh RODI water with new filters
Picking up BioMarine Poly-Filter this afternoon.

Mille is almost totally dead on top. Think I will snip the top off and save the base?
JF unknown acro is showing burnt tips and burnt edge at base. This may have been from alk rising a little when the lights were lowered. The lowering of the lights slowed down calcification and ALK consumption causing it to rise above the 8.4-8.6 level I keep it at.

Goooooooooooooo JDK gooooooooooooooooo I am happy for you man, it looks like you got something.

 

[Pkunk35]

Goooooooooooooo JDK gooooooooooooooooo I am happy for you man, it looks like you got something.

+1!

Personally I would keep the mille as is but more as a barometer for any changes in the tank health...although if declining already perhaps it is best to frag what is left.

 

[BlueDartReefer]

First off, do not use "real ocean water". Ever! And before Tangs are Awesome asks- inlet water is probably the most contaminated water on the planet. Artificial Salt Water is a very viable source- stick with it. Second, your RO membrane is good for 3-5 years. Utilizing a TDS meter before and after the DI chamber will notify you when it is time to change either one. In terms of testing for copper, my LFS has some high tech digital kit that test for numerous cantaminates. Aside from something similar, I have no idea which hobbyist test kit would be most reliable. And as you've stated, the best way to remove copper from your system is through the use of Toxic Metal Sponges and water changes. To comment on your dying acros, it is a crap shoot rather or not fragging will save the coral. However, I would try it. I was actually able to save one of three acros that I fragged.

 

[tangs are awsome]

I did not say inlet water. I said real ocean water. God made it, mother nature approved it, and every coral in the world lives in it. Read your RO system instructions I have researched this topic off and on for a year. Please trust me when I say any ro unit that is used for residential work is only rated for 8 months to a year. Go ahead and use your system for five years without changing it see what happens. A good uv sterilizer is should be all you need to cure the water. I just posted a thread on it so lets see what the moral majority says about it. I admit I have only been doing this for a year and a half and there are plenty of people with far greater experience than what I have. However I have read, asked, killed, and overcome some very harsh situations. Good luck with everything. You have figured out the problem I hope that all goes the best as possible for you and your tank. DI resin is $12 a bag to change it out every four or five months verses what you are going through now I think is cheap. Check your ro label on your unit go to google and look up its life expectancy. Please respond and let me know what you find. The beauty of this hobby is everybody is trying to recreate what god has already done. It is truly amazing to see how many different approaches people have to fix one common problem. If all your tests come up at zero and you have real ocean salt use it. I am only trying to suggest what I have found to be a night and day problem solver for the 100 gallon system I am running. I only have a marine biologist, a fish store owner, a coral whole seller, and a 10 year seasoned veteran with a 300 gallon show tank to get advice from. And yes all of these people I know personally and am good friends with. I know them all for better than five years.