My High Energy Rainbow Garden - Niji No Niwa

Discussion in 'Member Tanks' started by naterealbig, Sep 7, 2018.

  1. Joel B in FL

    Joel B in FL Active Member

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    Hey Nate,

    I tried to do a build thread but I am horrible with follow up on those types of things. We should definitely catch up sometime.
     

  2. rockskimmerflow

    rockskimmerflow Well-Known Member

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    Ahh a beautiful sight!! Sorry I didn't see it sooner, been off this website for a while busy building other ppl their dream systems. I don't think you'll be hurting for power with those two beasts under the hood. Tank is coming along great so far by the looks of your recent updates. Can't wait to see this thing grown out!
     
  3. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Hey Joel, I have the same problem too sometimes - my ability to post consistently waxes and wanes.... I'll be in touch once I actually get some stuff growing....
     
  4. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    No worries, I know things have got to be busy.... Would love to have your job!. I definitely won't be hurting for pumping power, and the same can be said for lighting, as I just received the Giesemann Spectra that I will be using over display

    I'll post updates as I add fish, livestock, and equipment improvements.... Really going for world-class this round!. Thank you for the kind words.
     
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  5. galantra

    galantra Member

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    Loving this build and how much thought you placed in location and use of everything
     
  6. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Hi @galantra - thank you so much for the compliment! I hope if you see any areas for improvements you let me know your thoughts. I appreciate all of the helpful feedback I have received over the time I have been updating this. Just a few more small things to get knocked out, and I'll post some updated pictures and a video of system.

    Be chatting......
     
  7. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Lighting Update:

    since before the build even officially began, I have been planning on using a Giesemann Infiniti w/ 2 x 250w halides over the display. After purchasing the fixture and seeing it in person, I realized the fixture was too narrow, and the reflectors too small to fully light the large footprint of the display.

    After much research and consideration, I then decided I was going to use 3 x Orphek Atlantik V4 Fixtures for lighting.

    After getting everything set up, and realizing I wanted fish in the tank long before I would be able to save enough for the Orpheks, I decided to go ahead and hang the Infinititemporarily. I fired it up, and about fell on the floor when I saw the fixture lit the ENTIRE tank, with absolutely no dim areas.... Complete and even coverage, the perfect slow shimmer.... and I instantly fell in love with halides again.....

    Wanting to up my game a little, I purchased a Giesemann Spectra which came in yesterday. It is hanging over the tank now, and It is official - I will be running 2 x 250w Radiums (Lumatek Ballasts), flanked with 2 x ATI Blue +, 2 x Giesemann Pure Actinics, 2 x Orphek UV LED bars, and 2 x Reefbrite XHO blue LED bars. The tank is jaw-dropping, and I haven't even ordered the LEDs or corals yet!

    More to come.....
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2019
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  8. rushbattle

    rushbattle Jack of Some, Master of None R2R Supporter Partner Member 2019

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    ;Joyful
    Sounds like an awesome plan! Mega blue and should fluoresce like crazy, but with the radiums to balance it out a touch. Imagine me saying that 15 years ago o_O;);Joyful;Joyful
     
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  9. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Lol lol! I'm really excited about it - I think this combo will give me the exact look I'm shooting for... Although I don't want it drowned in blue - I was really hoping to coax out some pigmentation that can be a little tough to do with LEDs.... Was thinking maybe a true 14k look but with a ton of fluorescence (but not the 50k color temp). Perhaps I should go with a whiter halide - 14k Hammy or ushio?

    Or keep the radium, and go with the Orphek blue bar instead of the XHO?
     
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  10. rushbattle

    rushbattle Jack of Some, Master of None R2R Supporter Partner Member 2019

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    I think you should go with your instinct on this one. It’s relatively easy to try another combo down the line if this isn’t exactly what you are wanting.

    Quantum physics is hard enough(!!!), but when you have so many different photosynthetic processes and enzymes, xanthophylls, chromoproteins, fluorescing proteins, the wild variation in human visual perception, wild variation in human preferences, vastly varying coral holobionts dictated by the genetics and niche pressures of each coral specimen, just as a very incomplete and off the cuff start, no way to have a good model to predict any outcome. Trial and error is vastly easier!

    Apologies for the crazy run-on. All I was trying to say is that observing what you like and then trying to iterate from there is likely the most efficient path to what you desire.

    Please keep us up to date with your findings about lighting intensity and spectra once corals are going, it’s hugely helpful to the community and we all love pics of corals to demonstrate your observations!
     
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  11. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Very will said, and you are absolutely right. I will move forward with the original concept. Snooping around tonight on the Reefbrite website, I found I can purchase an Apex-compatible dimming module for the XHOs. I'll start with this, as it is another lever I can use to fine tune, and should satisfy "moon light" requirements as well.

    Yes, I definitely will post lots of pictures as I complete every aspect of the build. Should only be anther week or two now.

    Thank you very much for your valuable thoughts and insight!
     
  12. rockskimmerflow

    rockskimmerflow Well-Known Member

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    I was about to shed a tear if you went all orphek instead of halide hybrid. If inspiring visuals are your aim, halides and LED supplements for that extra hit of blue are perfection. Glad you hung up the fixture first haha. Halides have a much more potent light field than people give them credit for. In the right reflectors with proper spacing, I think halides are actually the most efficient artificial light source for commercial grow of corals indoors. Especially since I find I only need to run them 4-6 hours to sufficiently hit most tanks. I like to run supp LEDs or T5 for traditional 8-12hr cycles, but there is something special about those few peak hours with the halides baking a coral lagoon. I think you'll be rewarded greatly if you stick to 250W SE Radiums. Only bulb I found on the DE side to rival their attractiveness was the XM 250W 20k DE lamps which are sadly no longer made. I pretty much stick with 250W phoenix for DE and Radiums for SE these days. Run a 250W Radium at proper HQI levels and you'll find most ppl who are acclimated to LED tanks would call it yellow lol. I think it's a perfect crisp blue though.
     
  13. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    RSF - If you say it, then it is true!! . I am very happy I decided to hang the Infiniti up as well - I just remember thinking - "no way this light is going to cover the whole tank" - and the bulbs just laughed at me as they sizzled over the scape . Interestingly, the fixture as it is, is only running at 700 watts- only about 100 more watts than would have been used on 6 x XR-15s or the 3 x Orpheks....

    Absolutely nothing I've seen, with the exception of some of the larger t5 fixtures spread the light over this much area.... And I'm even happier with the spectra. Your feedback is very helpful and is helping seal the deal with the Radiums..... I think the combo I'm planning will be great - especially with the dimmable XHOs. I love the light from the halides, and have them timed so I catch the last couple hours of them both running when I get home from work.

    I ran the 400w SE 20k XMs over my last couple tanks - I loved them too and was sad to hear they weren't making bulbs anymore. I do love the super fluorescent colors you can see when running Royal Blues + UV LEDs, but you just lose so much color in the coral (and even more in the fish).... Amazing anyone could call it yellow - although I guess when you think about how most hobbyists haven't ever even seen a halide lit tank it makes sense...

    I assume I'm getting close to 300w with the E ballasts I'm running at HQI setting. Think it would be worth ponying up for the M-80?. I see I can still get these from Hamilton.....

    Thanks for stopping by, the kind words, and the helpful direction.
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2019
  14. rockskimmerflow

    rockskimmerflow Well-Known Member

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    I used to run the magnetic ballasts and kind of prefer them from a purist standpoint - their longevity and reliable bulb driving power vs solid state is indisputable IMO - but I've switched over to the 400W Luxcore electronic ballasts running on the 250W Hqi settings for my 250w radiums these days. Just simpler to mount and package into most installations. I do have a couple of the venerable reflex cube 250 ballasts still running on some client tanks, but when they pass on I'll probably switch in solid state units. I pull 290ish watts each on my kill a watt meter for the 250 radiums running on the luxcores in 250hqi mode. The magnetics pull closer to the 300 - 315W range.

    I'm glad you noticed the wattage comparison as that is the biggest fallacy that gets many of my clients to initially balk at the idea of halide or T5 vs LED. Once you crunch the numbers it almost always comes out a wash in long term overall power and maintenance costs, with the only major difference being up front cost depending on the LEDs being considered.
     
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  15. rushbattle

    rushbattle Jack of Some, Master of None R2R Supporter Partner Member 2019

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    Th efficiency per lumen is about the same in my experience. I run LED for heat reasons. I don’t want to rely on a chiller to keep everything alive.
     
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  16. rockskimmerflow

    rockskimmerflow Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I agree, it really is cooling or heating being the dominant requirement in your locale. I'll usually run T5Ho with LED supps and a fan on a temp controller based cooling solution if a client has a house that tends to run warm or doesn't have AC. If somebody runs AC all the time and keeps a room at 72 then I go halide if feasible since the skimmer reacting cold air and a fan blowing while the lights are on is usually sufficient. I have heard from ppl in colder areas that they actually ended up using slightly more power with less light input because their heaters went on full time once the LEDs were swapped in. I'm glad you avoided needing a chiller as I find those to be the absolute biggest power hogs of any life support system if one is required to maintain temps.
     
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  17. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Yes, this is very true. I've run halides and t5's for the majority of the last 13 years or so of keeping corals, and have never owned a chiller until this system. And even now, I'll only connect it to the hard plumbing when I'm out of town. It won't be used as a life support system, unless I have issues with my AC.... (I've had the unit go out at least once in every place I've lived in Florida) - and this would be necessary regardless of my heating solution with 100+ F Spring, summer, and fall, and sometimes winter....

    It's also the reason I purchased a large generator - with the amount of money and time I'm putting into this system, I simply can't afford to have a catastrophe kill everything.
     
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  18. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Got some fish - it's been slow, as I'm quarantining everything. So far my Oscelaris pair that has been with me for 6 years, a Yellow Mimic, Yellow Eye Cole Tang, Tail Spot Benny, and Royal Gramma. I have a tiny Eibli Mimic Tang and Magnificent Foxface that will be added in about 8 days.

    I'll do a proper photo shoot once I have all the systems connected, and covers buttoned up.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Couple more pics... Playing around with some phone photos and some editing software I got. I know, nothing special...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. naterealbig

    naterealbig Active Member

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    Still not done with the build......

    Here are a few updates though (Pics to come)

    1. Tank is doing very well. Zero ugly phase!. Display doesn't look any different than the last shots I posted. I'm very happy with the rockwork.

    2. Purchased and installed "Holy Grail " lighting system - Giesemann Spectra. Saving up for 2 x Reefbrite XHO bars (already have dimmer). Absolutely incredible light!

    3. Ran LDPE tubing for all dosing and water change tubing. Have been feeling uneasy about its use since installation - not because it's not working, but I'm dreading the frequency of replacement!. I'm currently outfitting my DOS and FX-STP for HDPE (RODI) tubing. Will begin installing once all parts arrive. DOS is currently performing a 4 g daily water change.

    4. Decided to implement a kalkwasser reactor in my setup. Installed reactor in water storage closet. Initially set it up with PMUP, but am not confident about its dosing volume consistency. Going to use FX-STP that was initially installed for calcium reactor, and purchase another FX-STP later....

    5. Still need to organize powerhead and lighting wiring. Need to install some wire mounts and purchase and install blue wire loom for lighting cords. Will probably wait until I have Reefbrites installed before buttoning this up....

    6. Still haven't set up coral QT yet.... Found a busted seam on tank I was going to use originally.... Sourced a new 60 g cube, which is taller than I wanted, but I like the additional water volume. Will plan plumbing system in next few days. Won't be as nice as the display plumbing, but will stick to the grey/red/white theme here.

    7. Current Display stock list-
    a) Pair of 6 yr Snowflake Oscelaris
    b) 2.5" Acanthurus pyroferus (Lemonpeel Tang)
    c) 2.5" Ctenochaetus strigosus (Kole Tang)
    d) 2.5" Gramma Loreto (Royal Gramma)
    e) 1.75" Ecsenius stigmatura (Tailspot Blenny)

    8. Current QT stock list -
    a) 1.5" Acanthurus tristis (Eibli Mimic Tang)
    b) 4" Siganus magnificus (Magnificent Foxface)
    c) 5" Zebrasoma rostratum (Black Tang) - display centerpiece.

    9. On wishlist
    a) small Acanthurus triostegus
    b) small pair Oxycirrhites typus
    c) various small fish to hide in rockwork

    10. Money was burning a hole in my pocket and I purchased 2 x Eclectus mushrooms. One yellow and red, and the other bright orange. Managed to get a Red Devil shroom thrown in for free. My brother will hold these for me until my coral QT is ready to go.

    Going to stick to all mushrooms first- this will make QT much easier. Also going to purchase WWC OG Bounce, Kali Kid Black Mamba Bounce, and Kali Kid Juggernaut Bounce. Then I'll move on to Zoas next.....

    11. Installed Kessil H380 over refugium. I was originally worried that I was going to have a deal with a hot pink beam eminating from my open stand at night, but the light is much cooler than I expected. Gives a very neat look to the inside of the stand when it's on.

    12. Pulled the Algae Barn Chaeto out of QT, and placed in the fuge (been in there 100 days or so). I think I'm just now getting to a point where there are enough nutrients in the system to support its growth. Once it gets to an appreciable size, I anticipate it will buffer my nightly pH drop which will be nice.

    That's all I can think of for now......

    Be good!
     
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