My journey of having velvet

bobssecrtsn

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So my luck just ended when my fishes got velvet. I’ve lost my powder brown, Sail fin and royal gamma. Not sure how I got it but it hit quickly.

I had no time to get a QT set up so I had to use my sump ThAts been in storage and all equipment I’ve been gathering to set up a frAg tank over the years.

the livestock includes:
Purple tang
Yellow tang
5 blue chromis
4 clown fishes
tomini tang
Red head Solon fairy wrasse
Sixline wrasse
File fish

I’m afraid this 35 G sump will be to little to home all these fishes. But I’ll try by best to use prime..

Since I can only use 1 QT my procedures list is
So far I’ve tranfered all fish over. With the same water.
i will start using :
rally ruby bath 80 min
Dose QT with CP 30 days. Trying not to do Waterchanges in between

QUESTION:
I have nitrofurazone powder. Should I dose the same time as CP?

I also purchased some general cure as well just to have on hand. As well is kanaplex, metro, and focus.

Sadly as I’m writing I’ve lost my sail fin and powder brown.

77F8EE5D-7D70-4EDF-8061-D724074B42DE.jpeg 812D3CF0-AA1C-48A4-850A-223D87C5FC0C.jpeg 69F48951-8379-45F3-BB20-DA62FD91F41B.jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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Sorry to see this. Does appear as velvet. Some behaviors associated with a fish with velvet are :
- Scratching body against hard objects
- Fish is lethargic
- Loss of appetite and weight loss
- Rapid, labored breathing
- Fins clamped against the body
- rapid breathing and mucus around the gills

Fish with velvet will typically stay at the surface of the water, or remain in a position where a steady flow of water is present in the aquarium. As the disease progresses outwards from the gills, the cysts then become visible on the fins and body. Although these cysts may appear as tiny white dots the size of a grain of salt, like the first sign of Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease, what sets Oodinium apart from other types of ich is that at this point the fish have the appearance of being coated with what looks like a whitish or tan to golden colored, velvet-like film, thus the name Velvet Disease.
Remove fish from main tank and give them a FW dip or bath and then place them into a QT with good aeration provided. Treat the fish in the QT with a copper-based medication. Although many remedies contain the general name as ich or ick treatments, carefully read the box to be sure it is specifically designed to target Oodinium. My choice is coppersafe at 2.25-2.5 therapuetic level at 80 degrees monitored by a reliable test kit (no api brand either)
While Ruby Rally Pro addresses velvet, it will take longer opposed to copper safe or even Copper Power
 

TastesLikeChicken

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I’ve been doing a lot of research lately and I believe people tend to make the medicated quarantine process unnecessarily complicated.

This is what I would do in this situation. You know the pathogen you are dealing with - marine velvet. So the very first goal will be to aggressively treat marine velvet. I say aggressively because velvet is so lethal so quickly. My recommendation would be to either use copper or chloroquine phosphate. Start at therapeutic dose (you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping it up and it’s really not necessary) and treat the fish immediately.

I wouldn’t add anything else. Keep it simple. Once the 30 day treatment (30 days after the last physical evidence of the disease) has been completed then you can consider prophylactically treating for other things if you think it necessary.

Stick with what works, copper or CP. Treat the known pathogen which is actively killing your fish. Once you are in the clear you can focus on other things.

Good luck.
 
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bobssecrtsn

bobssecrtsn

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Question for all, can I leave my live rock in QT while dosing CP? Or will the rock absorb the meds?
 

LAReefer4Life

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Question for all, can I leave my live rock in QT while dosing CP? Or will the rock absorb the meds?
CP should be dosed without bio filter to maintain levels. Bacteria will reduce the the medication. luckily CP has a wide therapeutic range (20-80 mg/gal).

Read this article

 
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bobssecrtsn

bobssecrtsn

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CP should be dosed without bio filter to maintain levels. Bacteria will reduce the the medication. luckily CP has a wide therapeutic range (20-80 mg/gal).

Read this article

Thanks for the info, I decided to go with my gut and remove the rocks before adding the meds, with that being said Here’s how it is now. Super tight on space and I was stressing out on the amount of fish in the QT. So instead I put a 5 gallon bucket with a heater and airstone and put my 5 chromis in there. Since they are hardy fishes they I have some wiggle room. And left the 5 gallon bucket in the qt tank.
 

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Jay Hemdal

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So my luck just ended when my fishes got velvet. I’ve lost my powder brown, Sail fin and royal gamma. Not sure how I got it but it hit quickly.

I had no time to get a QT set up so I had to use my sump ThAts been in storage and all equipment I’ve been gathering to set up a frAg tank over the years.

the livestock includes:
Purple tang
Yellow tang
5 blue chromis
4 clown fishes
tomini tang
Red head Solon fairy wrasse
Sixline wrasse
File fish

I’m afraid this 35 G sump will be to little to home all these fishes. But I’ll try by best to use prime..

Since I can only use 1 QT my procedures list is
So far I’ve tranfered all fish over. With the same water.
i will start using :
rally ruby bath 80 min
Dose QT with CP 30 days. Trying not to do Waterchanges in between

QUESTION:
I have nitrofurazone powder. Should I dose the same time as CP?

I also purchased some general cure as well just to have on hand. As well is kanaplex, metro, and focus.

Sadly as I’m writing I’ve lost my sail fin and powder brown.

77F8EE5D-7D70-4EDF-8061-D724074B42DE.jpeg 812D3CF0-AA1C-48A4-850A-223D87C5FC0C.jpeg 69F48951-8379-45F3-BB20-DA62FD91F41B.jpeg

Stepping in a bit late here:

First, we heed to clarify - when you say CP you mean chloroquine phosphate, not Copper Power. For some reason, people here have been using the term CP for the latter.

You should NOT remove the rocks during a chloroquine treatment. CP often causes ammonia spikes, and the more nitrifying bacteria you have in the tank, the better. Do make sure the sump does not receive any UV light - from a sterilizer or a light fixture..

The powder brown doesn't have Amyloodinium/velvet, it has later stage Cryptocaryon, ich. The sailfin is likely the same. It is possible for fish to have BOTH infections at once, but this looks like mostly ich. The way to tell the two infections apart is that with velvet, the fish stop feeding and begin breathing very fast in 24 to 36 hours. With ich, they get sicker more gradually and continue to feed and breath normally until a few days before they die.

I need to mention that with either velvet or ich, once fish loss has occurred, it is very difficult to impossible to stop the problem before additional losses take place.

I don't see any indication that nitrofurazone is called for here.

Here is a link to an article I wrote on chloroquine:


Jay
 
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bobssecrtsn

bobssecrtsn

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Stepping in a bit late here:

First, we heed to clarify - when you say CP you mean chloroquine phosphate, not Copper Power. For some reason, people here have been using the term CP for the latter.

You should NOT remove the rocks during a chloroquine treatment. CP often causes ammonia spikes, and the more nitrifying bacteria you have in the tank, the better. Do make sure the sump does not receive any UV light - from a sterilizer or a light fixture..

The powder brown doesn't have Amyloodinium/velvet, it has later stage Cryptocaryon, ich. The sailfin is likely the same. It is possible for fish to have BOTH infections at once, but this looks like mostly ich. The way to tell the two infections apart is that with velvet, the fish stop feeding and begin breathing very fast in 24 to 36 hours. With ich, they get sicker more gradually and continue to feed and breath normally until a few days before they die.

I need to mention that with either velvet or ich, once fish loss has occurred, it is very difficult to impossible to stop the problem before additional losses take place.

I don't see any indication that nitrofurazone is called for here.

Here is a link to an article I wrote on chloroquine:


Jay
Thank you for the information! I do have nitrofurazone

but I was wondering if I should dose it in conjunction with prime and chloroquine phosphate?

would it be wise to have the bathroom light on during the day ? I’m not sure when to feed the fish.

to also your question, yes I am using chloroquine phosphate,

the tank is in a bathroom that is isolated by light, only light it gets is the bathroom light.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Thank you for the information! I do have nitrofurazone

but I was wondering if I should dose it in conjunction with prime and chloroquine phosphate?

would it be wise to have the bathroom light on during the day ? I’m not sure when to feed the fish.

to also your question, yes I am using chloroquine phosphate,

the tank is in a bathroom that is isolated by light, only light it gets is the bathroom light.

O.K, no issue with UV light then. I would not dose nitrofurazone in this case.

Jay
 

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