Yes so long as you are running the correct speed of flow through it
My lfs sold me a baby tang with ick.
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jt8791
Active Member
Any feedback on the correct flow speed for UV? I get lost on that one, only kept mine running for a few months till the pico pump died, 300gph. Was gonna set it back up temporarily to see if it helps with what I think is diatoms, bought a cheap 550gph pump to give it a shot. Aqua UV 15w Advantage 2000+, only plan to run this pump for a few days to see if I have the flow right, cheap brand so I don't trust it for long. Freesea, on amazon, was small and easy to take apart for cleaning. According to the chart on aqua uv it should be between 466 and 700 for a reef tank, but not sure if tank size changes that, probably an oversized uv for my 30.
I'm sure a lot of beginners still get lost on the proper flow rate for uv sterilizers and also probably don't want to wipe out their pods and phyto.
Mywifeisgunnakillme
Valuable Member
Every local fish shop has ick.... And Ick isn't a big deal until you lose a (couple grand in pets in your) tank to it..... then you'll change your mind if you have any sense... domesticated animals in tight quarters always have expentially more exposure and problems with disease and parasites (an reef aquarium is nothing like an actual reef...).
QT the fish in an established qt, not really that hard, in the future or if this one is still sick. Just have to plan a qt ready ahead of purchases... Alternatively, TSM Aquatics or other pre-qt'd fish are my impulse buys....
To treat ick, the flow has to very low. BRS has guidelines on its website where is sell them. You want less than 100 (probably better is 50-75) gph gallons per hour for a 15 watt UV is what i remember for parasites.... I know i have the Aqua UV 15 watt hang on and bought the smallest pump i could find, definitely less than 100 GPH, for a 10 gallon tank i use for coral qt's. It will still kill dino's and the like too.
I run a 50 watt UV on a 50 gallon system and the flow is about 200 to 250 measured on GHL. Goes return pump in sump to UV to chiller to tank. Never seen a spot on any fish. I have 120 watt for a 200 gallon, and i believe the flow needs to be less than 600 GPH, or there abouts, can't remember for parasites.
I do qt fish and corals or buy qt'd fish. I would not run a tank without UV now--for no other reason than preventative fish health as to parasites.... I still have tons of pods (they're all over my glass) and i dose live phyto... it's not a big deal, phyto is not going to live in your system anyway--all that phyto and bacteria (supplements) get skimmed out and don't live long term no matter what anyway...
QT the fish in an established qt, not really that hard, in the future or if this one is still sick. Just have to plan a qt ready ahead of purchases... Alternatively, TSM Aquatics or other pre-qt'd fish are my impulse buys....
To treat ick, the flow has to very low. BRS has guidelines on its website where is sell them. You want less than 100 (probably better is 50-75) gph gallons per hour for a 15 watt UV is what i remember for parasites.... I know i have the Aqua UV 15 watt hang on and bought the smallest pump i could find, definitely less than 100 GPH, for a 10 gallon tank i use for coral qt's. It will still kill dino's and the like too.
I run a 50 watt UV on a 50 gallon system and the flow is about 200 to 250 measured on GHL. Goes return pump in sump to UV to chiller to tank. Never seen a spot on any fish. I have 120 watt for a 200 gallon, and i believe the flow needs to be less than 600 GPH, or there abouts, can't remember for parasites.
I do qt fish and corals or buy qt'd fish. I would not run a tank without UV now--for no other reason than preventative fish health as to parasites.... I still have tons of pods (they're all over my glass) and i dose live phyto... it's not a big deal, phyto is not going to live in your system anyway--all that phyto and bacteria (supplements) get skimmed out and don't live long term no matter what anyway...
You'll need to read or look up the flow speed from the manufacturer. I own 3 units and all of them have a different recommendations for flow speeds to combat algae or pests.
Wyvern
Active Member
If it's ONLY ich I shrug it off, if you ever want corals there is a high chance you will introduce Ich unless you QT them for 76 days.
The second you cross contaminate your gear, all that hard work may have been a waste.
Strong fish and a good diet with UV will control it, but fighting and new additions can cause an outbreak.
Now Velvet? That is reason to go nuclear and fallow.
Also, I will not buy from a LFS, I assume they have every desiese under the sun.
The second you cross contaminate your gear, all that hard work may have been a waste.
Strong fish and a good diet with UV will control it, but fighting and new additions can cause an outbreak.
Now Velvet? That is reason to go nuclear and fallow.
Also, I will not buy from a LFS, I assume they have every desiese under the sun.
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