My Monti and Anacropora are Peeling

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Just quick observation, your phosphate is quite low at 0.03. I made observation some time ago that I kept loosing monti and anacropora when phosphate was that low or I had sudden decreased in phosphate. Level between 0.05-0.1 works better for me. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
Thank you, good observation - the reason it is so low is that my corals consume so much that if I even skip one day of not feeding them it will drop - I run a large frag tank plumbed into a display tank. After I feed the readings are more in the 0.1-0.15 range.
 
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I think Miami Reef already told you the checker is no good at low levels. There are actually a few threads on this scaring people.
Post #8 is RHF saying the same.
I hear you and I have read the article. I also just did another test, now it is showing me 0.08 - can this also be a false reading? I get it when it is in 0.02 range, but this seems that it is really off.
 

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Triple check your salanity and your other parameters and make sure you have a decent level of mag. When I had red dragon it was always a canary coral for me. Maybe double check your temp and make sure there is no stray current as well. It’s normally something very simple and going back to the basics and keeping things simple is always the best approach when something is off.
My mag is at 1440 right now, temperature is at 76.5-77
 

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@aquaticlog

Are you still seeing die off? Is it spreading to other corals? Could this be a bacteria thing? And I can not remember, do you have a UV? I remember the video you taking the one you had apart, just didnt know if maybe you put one back on there.
 
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@aquaticlog

Are you still seeing die off? Is it spreading to other corals? Could this be a bacteria thing? And I can not remember, do you have a UV? I remember the video you taking the one you had apart, just didnt know if maybe you put one back on there.
I still see some moderate die off and polyps are not extending. I had a tiny UV running in the past but have not been running it for a few months (could coincide with the start of the issues, but not quite), it is a 9w turbo twist on a 400 gallon system, so doubt it was doing too much. Anyways, I do not run it anymore nor do I have it - I have tossed it for a worry of it leeching anything into the tank.
 

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I don't think food would be an issue, if it was we would of all had this very issue...

Story time...

I had some recent die off. started with a digitata, then the caps that I had started to go. What I did was to slow the flow way down in my UV, (I have 700 gallons of water) I turned my lights down as well (Ecotech Gen 5) to 15%. I was battling a dino outbreak also during this event thou it was not showing signs in my frag tank, the display had some spots of it popping up. I continued everything else as normal. I did my 2- 80 gallon water changes (20%) as scheduled. The dino's then started to recede and the Digis started to make a come back. I have since started to bring my lights back up (weekly by 5%) and am currently at 25%. I strongly feel there was a bacterial issue I had that I could not see. My parameters have all stayed stable and have been for months. I also did a ICP and nothing came back out of the ordinary other then tin, which I am really not concerned with.

I am wondering if you may have some sort of bacterial issue also that you cant see. I hope you get this figured out, as I hate see you struggle, your tanks and videos are amazing.

Mike
 
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I don't think food would be an issue, if it was we would of all had this very issue...

Story time...

I had some recent die off. started with a digitata, then the caps that I had started to go. What I did was to slow the flow way down in my UV, (I have 700 gallons of water) I turned my lights down as well (Ecotech Gen 5) to 15%. I was battling a dino outbreak also during this event thou it was not showing signs in my frag tank, the display had some spots of it popping up. I continued everything else as normal. I did my 2- 80 gallon water changes (20%) as scheduled. The dino's then started to recede and the Digis started to make a come back. I have since started to bring my lights back up (weekly by 5%) and am currently at 25%. I strongly feel there was a bacterial issue I had that I could not see. My parameters have all stayed stable and have been for months. I also did a ICP and nothing came back out of the ordinary other then tin, which I am really not concerned with.

I am wondering if you may have some sort of bacterial issue also that you cant see. I hope you get this figured out, as I hate see you struggle, your tanks and videos are amazing.

Mike
Hmm, definitely could be the case as well. I feel like it could be either one easily, but very hard to deduce. At least that 0.08 copper reading appears to be a smoking gun, but I do not see where copper could be coming from - I have even checked my M2 Vectra today, still nothing out of the ordinary.
 

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Hmm, definitely could be the case as well. I feel like it could be either one easily, but very hard to deduce. At least that 0.08 copper reading appears to be a smoking gun, but I do not see where copper could be coming from - I have even checked my M2 Vectra today, still nothing out of the ordinary.
How old are your vectras? I have 6 in my system, oldest one being around 2 years old, and I have had no issues out of any. I did have a MP60 that the magnet exploded on, but I think I caught that before anything major happened. ( I clean them when I take them off line and then again before I put them back online, if they were down for a period of time) Luckily I caught it before I put it back online. For what it is worth, if you look into a new UV, I went with Lifegard. They have units that are well built, Only complaint I had with them is they did not package the bulb well and it was busted when it came in. They did however quickly replace it. Some of the UV's for the bigger tanks can cause a person to go bankrupt trying to pay for it.
 

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I am going to run a copper test on my tank, to see where I am at. 100% clarity, I don't trust the Hannah's, I know its the only smoking gun you have currently, but I just cant see it.
 

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These are my results, and the reason why I don't put a lot of faith in the results. Like you, I get different readings, none being "0", and the reagent is not expired so that should not be a concern here. Hope this helps.
 

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Wow, I'll wait for ICP to come back early next week. So let's say it is not copper, then it is bacterial?
 

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Brother I don't want to say for certain, I am not even sure if in my case that was the issue. The only thing you can do is rule things out as you find issues and keep things stable. Keep doing some research and keep asking questions, I am sure at some point someone will be able to chime in and say they experienced the same thing. I really wish I could offer more help. Any chance you can talk to Jake Adams again and get his thoughts?
 

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I hear you and I have read the article. I also just did another test, now it is showing me 0.08 - can this also be a false reading? I get it when it is in 0.02 range, but this seems that it is really off.
Maybe make a thread in the chemistry forum, or call one of the pros here. There's tons of threads on these HR and LR copper checkers not being right for testing a reef tank at low levels, the HR model is only supposed to be good for checking therapeutic levels for fish QT.
 
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I think you guys are right - I'm chasing my tail here and it makes sense that I should not trust HR checker, the numbers just don't seem to make sense.

I'll update once I get my ICP by early next week, meanwhile will try to perhaps.. dose some bacteria? I got some Brightwell.. thinking of 1/2 to 1/4 dose to supplement. Any thoughts?
 

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I like the bacteria idea. Obviously you will need a pretty big uv to make a difference on that large of a system-- and who knows if bacteria is really the issue. Maybe some aquabiomics testing is in order. @AquaBiomics do you have any thoughts on this thread? Alternatively you could just try adding uv and see if it helps...
 

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