My new Biocube 32, mods, cycling, stocking, and all.

bartizzle

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Hi!

So I've been reading here for years and finally decided to pull the trigger on my first marine tank. I'm cramped for space right now so I went with a 32g Biocube and I'm trying to make it as fault tolerant as possible. Whole house generator installed, some spare pumps on hand, redundant over-sized heaters with a dedicated controller (outside wall can get really cold in the winter too), eventually hoping to do smnall automated DWCs as well.

I really like things quiet, in which I'll explain with these two mods. I'd highly recommend both to anyone that asks too.

I converted the LED hood over to a different fan to quiet it down. The stock fan was horrible, I tried a Fractal 50mm for a week and thought it was still just a little louder than I could make it. So, I took a gamble on an 80mm Noctua with the ultra low noise inline resistor to run it down at 7v. I had to silicone it in place, but there is plenty of room and it has good airflow all sealed up. I removed the smaller fan since I had no plans on spinning it back up anyhow. Even running the 80mm Noctua at full 12v was still quieter than the other two fans with a lot more airflow.

I swapped the return pump initially for a Sicce Syncra 1.5 and even after 2 weeks it was still too loud for me. I started using silicone to help solidify some of the rear chamber parts that started to rattle. I gave up on it. I bought a Jaebo DCP-2500 and it is silent, no question about it. I run it down at 30% and I converted it down to 1/2" hose to cause a little bit of head pressure. I also installed a ball valve but it's running wide-open right now. I can run the DCP-2500 up to 100% and it slightly raises the water level. I'm very comfortable with it down at 70% and below. It is a little bit wider with the cage on it, so I filled a vacuum bag with sand to make a solid shelf under it to lift it up to fit better. The very minor trickle that you can hear when using an InTank basket and floss is louder than the pump and LED fans. My Tunze 6040 emits only the slightest hum too. I bought the DCP-2500 because I was using the DCP-8000 for mixing salt and filling the tank from across the room with a 50' hose. I've been very happy with both pumps. I've read that a lot of folks don't like them but they were some of the only DC pumps in my budget.

I've also removed all the tabs in my chamber to be able to add a Tunze 9001 DC if needed later.

Here's my parts list and some pictures. I'm in the cycling phase and waiting it out. I've doubted my NH3/4 readings and bought additional kits to test. I'm open to opinions and advise. I've contemplated doing a big WC but I'll wait it out unless a lot of you feel it to be the best. I'm also wondering if I should move my whole rockscape back toward the main wall some. I initially left it out to I could keep it clean, but now wondering if I should have more sand real estate up front. I know the epoxy looks bad, hopefully it covers up some day. I was looking to buy pink/purple coraline from Algaebarn to help speed things up but didn't know if I should wait for the cycle. I currently have my 300w heater that I use for mixing salt in the front, I've raised my temp up to 88F to try and help the cycling process, somewhere I read that it was a good thing.

I'm open to ideas on livestock. The goal is to do a reef tank. I like the typical stuff; frogspawn, hammers, pulsing Xenia, Zoas etc. I'm not terribly familiar with the process of keeping corals small. I don't want GSP taking up the whole tank or taking over my rocks etc so I need to study up about fragging and maintaining.

I'd like an Ocellarus Clown Pair (one black/one orange), Goby / Shrimp Pair, I really like the sand sifting gobys too, but don't think I'll have a big enough tank to keep them fed. I like others but haven't really chosen anything yet.

I'm somewhat clueless on CUC. I do like watching cleaner shrimp, but not sure if that works out with pistol shrimp too or whatnot.

I'll keep updating this thread as I progress for others to learn from my mistakes too!

Many thanks to all that have contributed to this place over the years!

Started up 3/25, used IO BIO-Spira and dosed Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride to what my Salifert kit said NH3/4 was 2.0ppm (about 90 drops)
4/4: NH3/4=1.5, NO2=0.2, NO3=2.5
4/5: NH3/4=1.5, NO2=0.1, NO3=2.5, SG=1.025, pH=8.0, dKH=8.8
4/7: NH3/4=1.5, NO2=0.2, NO3=2.5
4/8: NH3/4=2.0, NO2=0.0, NO3=2.5 (added 16 drops Ammonium Chloride)
4/10: NH3/4=1.5, NO2=0.0, NO3=2.5
4/12: NH3/4=1.5, NO2=0.25, NO3=10.0
4/14: NH3/4=1.5, NO2=0.25, NO3=10.0
Red Sea Test kit and API kits arrive because I start to doubt the Salifert
4/16 Salifert: NH3/4=1.5, NO2=0.25, NO3=10.0
4/16 Red Sea: NH3/4=2.0+, NO2=0.25, NO3=10.0
4/16 API: NH3/4=8, NO2=0.25, NO3=10.0

PARTS:
Tank Biocube 32
Stand Biocube
Heater (2) Eheim Jager 125w (set to 79F and calibrated)
Heater Controller Inkbird ITC-306T (set to 78F)
Protein Skimmer Tunze 9001 DC (not yet purchased)
Filter Mod InTank Basket
Filter Mod InTank Fish Saver Guard
Filter Mod InTank Extra Shelf
Filter InTank Floss
Filter Matrix
Return Pump Jebao DCP-2500 @30% SILENT (Tried Sicce 1.5, horribly loud)
Powerhead Tunze 6040
Hood Fan Mod Noctua NF-A8 ULN 80mm NEARLY SILENT (Tried Fractal 50mm, too loud)

Substrate Arag-Alive Fiji Pink 20#
Live Rock Carib Sea Life Rock 25#
Salt Brightwell NeoMarine
Coral glue Instant Ocean Epoxy Stick

AWC/ATO AutoAqua (Not yet puchased, considering this for small daily changes)

RODI Filter MC-RODI-90-10-MF
RODI Tank Rubbermaid Brute 32G
Salt Mixing and Tank Fill Pump Jebao DCP-8000

Additives Instant Ocean BIO-Spira
Additives Dr. Tim's Ammonium Cl
Testing supplies, I have all major brands now.

Salinity Milwaukee MA887
Alklinity (KH) Hanna Alk DKH 772, Salifert, Red Sea
Phosphate (PO4) Salifert
Calcium (Ca) Salifert
Nitrate (NO3) Salifert, Red Sea, API
Magnesium (Mg) Salifert
pH Salifert, Red Sea, API
Chlorine/Chloramines LaMotte
Ammonia (NH4) Salifert, Red Sea, API
Nitrite (NO2) Salifert, Red Sea, API

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bartizzle

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Since my NH3/4 numbers were staying at what seemed like off the chart values for both Red Sea and API test kits, I decided to do a 15g WC today. I've not yet seen any real presence of NO2 and some of what I read the high NH3/4 could have slowed the process. That was my justification. I'm not sure how I've had solid evidence of NO3 without really seeing NO2.

Used the Sicce Syncra 1.5 and OEM Biocube pump for mixing and transferring water in smaller buckets… I don't miss them at all, DCP-2500 is no comparison in sound or capacity, it's still running at 100% just to help mix it all.

I'm pretty sure that my Salifert NH3/4 test kit is screwed up and it has an expiration date of 10/2021.

Pre-change: API ~8.0ppm / Red Sea 2.0ppm+
1hr Post change API ~ 2.0ppm / Red Sea 1.5-2.0ppm

I'll test again late tonight to see if it changes. *and I just learned that I can't edit my initial posts, so I may follow up weekly to post updates rather than bore everyone with daily updates.*

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High pressure shells: Do you look for signs of stress in the invertebrates in your reef tank?

  • I regularly look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

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  • I occasionally look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

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  • I rarely look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

    Votes: 4 16.7%
  • I never look for signs of invertebrate stress in my reef tank.

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