Need a definitive answer on WHAT BRAND & WHERE TO BUY 420nm 3w LED diodes that DONT burn up

ZoWhat

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RESURRECTING a thread from last week with seeking an answer....

Need a definitive answer on
*WHAT BRAND &
*WHERE TO BUY
420nm 3w LED diodes that DONT burn up

20200118_201503.jpg

20200118_201441.jpg


I've tried several EBAY Chinese Mfgrs/Distributors of 3w 420nm diodes but they ALL within 6mos BURN UP.

If I proactively remove the clear lens and try to solder with only silicone jelly protecting the diode....theres about a 50-60% chance the diode is D E A D by just removing the clear lens....seems like a hair thin wire gets destroyed. Idk. All I know is removing 10 lens from 10 never used before 420nm diodes, I get like 4 that work out of 10.

I get it...
* they run hot
* they emit a UV lightwave that destroys clear plastic lrns.

There GOTTA BE a Mfgr that makes a 3w 420nm that I can get at least a couple years out of.

Who is it?
What brand?
Where can I personally ONLINE buy them with a minimum qty of like 1,000?

I'm very frustrated....



.
 
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Scrubber_steve

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Either the amps your feeding them is too high, or heat dissapation is too slow.

Alternatively, get leds without lenses
 
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ZoWhat

ZoWhat

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So...

I think its bullcrap I cant find a replacement 3w led diode that's strong in the 420-430nm lightwave that doesn't burn up the lens.

I've spent the last 2 hours scouring Ebay, Amazon for buying solutions... NOTHING but the Chinese ones that I know just charcoal themselves. Bc I've tried 3-4 different ebay Chinese sellers.

All ebay Chinese 420nm BBQ themselves if ran at a full 3w

Only workable solution is to use these Ebay Chinese ones and run at a MAX of 50%

So much for BLASTING 420nm.

Reefbrite makes 420NM strips at a cost of $200-$300 per 36ins.

Guess to get a BLAST you'd need to lay out major $$$ and get 4 of them for my 6ft tank

I ain't spending $1200 in light strips

FRUSTRATED!!!!!
.
 
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crusso1993

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Not sure these will work and based on your extensive searching have probably already seen them. But...


 
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ZoWhat

ZoWhat

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Not sure these will work and based on your extensive searching have probably already seen them. But...


Appreciate the info but the schematic below with the + & - terminals is the form factor I require

20200118_201503.jpg
 
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ZoWhat

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Ok let's take a Y in the road.....

How do I use a multimeter to read the INDIVIDUAL diode voltages and milliAmps?

I would need to know exacting step by step using the red and black multimeter probes.

NEED TO KNOW DIAL SETTINGS and ALL relevant procedures

20200118_224916.jpg


Maybe... just maybe my fixtures are OVERDRIVING these 420nm Chinese diodes ?????.

Like maybe I'm driving them at 3.4 watts at 1000millamps where their maximum is 3w / 700mA
 

NanoDJS

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the 3 w ones have one panel usally , the ones i posted link to are 5w and use 2 panels in the same housing so use themand youll be undervolting 2 panels per diode and they will be brighter and most likely not burn out so fast they will solder right in to the 2 tabs
 

Scrubber_steve

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I think its bullcrap I cant find a replacement 3w led diode that's strong in the 420-430nm lightwave that doesn't burn up the lens.
All ebay Chinese 420nm BBQ themselves if ran at a full 3w

FRUSTRATED!!!!!
.
I don't know if you are actually running a 3w at a full 3w, but their not meant to be.
3.5v x .7 amps = 2.45w
3.5v x .5 amps = 1.75w.

Crickey, Just run more leds at a lower wattage to get the "BLAST"
 

masterofstuff124

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this is very interesting. finally servicing my longest running black box. it has 8 dead leds all are blues. i just bought 385,420,440,470 all of the finest aliexpress quality...
im wondering if I should skip the 420. :cool:
I checked mouser and digikey and couldnt find anything similar enough.
 

redfishbluefish

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I'm a bumbling electronics person who is too dumb to say no to doing a DIY project. That said, I think skimjim is pushing too much voltage or amps through those LED's, and that's why they are burning out so fast.

Skimjim, to use volts, it appears your meter "mixes" both AC (squiggle line) with DC (straight line) volts, so you don't have to "pick" the right setting. That is, volts is volts....AC or DC. So simply pick the range. However, you need to move the red probe over to the "V" plug, and now your good to go. With the light ON, measure the voltage across an LED.....because DC, make sure positive to positive, negative to negative. If it's wrong, you'll get a negative number. I've measured volts before, but never amps. Not sure how to do that with LED's

EDIT TO ADD: Although looking at you meter again, I now see an AC/DC button.....might need to push that....and I'm assuming until you see DC on the screen. Not familiar with that actual meter.
 
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ZoWhat

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i just bought 385,420,440,470 all of the finest aliexpress quality...
im wondering if I should skip the 420.
Heres my theory.... the more you get into the UV range (<440nm).... the more the UV spectrum is eating up the clear plastic lens.

We all.know UVC 254nm germicidal browns out anything plastic close to the 254nm wavelength

I think at 420 and below .... the CHEAPbutt plastic lens they glue on cant handle the light spectrum and ROASTS the internal makeup of the clear plastic. Even roasted the 90° lens cap optical lens

This charring is one of 3 things:
* overheating
* over driven with voltage
* cheap plastic lens chemically changes with 420 light roasting it

Before retrofitting my blk boxes ALL the sub440nm leds were KFC fried chicken original recipe.

Idk.... hopefully this thread as it wanders about will.lead to some answers
 
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redfishbluefish

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Setting up Meter:

With your meter, turn knob to the left for DC volts.....V with the straight line. Most likely 2 or 20 V. If out of range, no big deal, just turn knob until volts in range. Appears the probe wires are set correctly. Also note that with DC, positive and negative counts. When making a reading, if you get a negative number, simply flip the probe locations. For the CBB's I've worked on, I typically see three and a half volts.

LED Burnout:

I purchase the least expensive UV beads I can find coming out of China. With the UV.....even the original ones in the fixtures....I've never seen the charring/frying of the lens cover that you are seeing. (I've seen that with blues, but never UV). For me, they simply stop working....emitting light. And I'm not just talking Chinese Black Boxes; also high end fixtures as well. This is the reason I believe you're supplying either too much voltage or amps.
 

HM3105

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Have you checked rapidled or stevesled? I've always found Steve's to be very helpful and willing to answer questions.
 

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