Need Advice on New Tank, Possible Need to Stock Immediately

[3sgterror]

Sorry for the long post, I wanted to provide as much info on this emergency as possible.

I am in the process of cycling my first reef tank, a Fluval Evo. I got the tank wet on November 30th and started my cycle, so I am 3 weeks in. I started my cycle with Dr Tim's One and Only.

I am currently in the Nitrite spike phase and have been there for about 10 days now. I have not seen the Nitrites reduce at all yet. I am using Red Sea Marine Care Test Kit. I fully intended to wait until I was completely cycled before I added any live stock to the tank.

Here is my dilemma, a local reefer needs to break down his tank immediately because of an extended out of town trip. With that he has no one to care for the tank or a spot to offload the livestock, so is selling everything. He has not been able to find any new homes until I came along. This isn't someone I know, just met them off of craigslist, so I can not access the home and care for the tank.

I offered to purchase everything. Everything includes 2 clowns, a hippo tang, a cleaner shrimp, various snails, a torch coral, couple zoas. My tank is not cycled so I worry about the health of the livestock if I drop them in. I dosed today with Seachem Prime and Seachem Stability to help alleviate cycling woes. I will continue to dose as recommended until I see the cycle completed. I will need to pick everything up tomorrow as he leaves tomorrow night.

I will be getting all the live rock out of his tank. If I replace my not completely cycled rock with his live rock, will the fish and corals be okay? Will that immediately finish my cycle?

I know the Fluval Evo is not big enough for a hippo tang, so I worry there also. What I will say about that, is the tang is a baby, maybe 1 inch or so. And I am in the process of establishing a Red Sea Max e260 in mid January. Can I keep the tang in the Evo until I can transfer to the e260?

Much appreciated on any advice you can give.

 

[borillion]

It will shorten your cycle but it depends on some factors like how much dies in transport and your sand. If you do water changes and monitor I believe you will be fine.

 

[fishguy242]

hi,take as much of his established water as poss,switch after changing or adding new rock

 

[3sgterror]

Also, to add more information, here are my current parameters for the items I have been testing.

I have not tested after dosing Seachem Prime or Stability as I wanted to wait 24 hours to let it work through the water column.

Temp - 78, had a ramp up to 80 because I was testing my reef-pi to see if I could increase the temp.
PH - has been stable at 8.4
Salinity - stable at 1.026
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 1
Nitrate - 50

 

[3sgterror]

It will shorten your cycle but it depends on some factors like how much dies in transport and your sand. If you do water changes and monitor I believe you will be fine.

The drive is about 10 minutes door to door, so I hope most bacteria will be fine, but I could be wrong. I will be putting the rock in a sealed tub with water from his tank.

Also, how much of water changes should I do? Like 50% water changes? Daily? Or just as I see levels rise?

 

[3sgterror]

hi,take as much of his established water as poss,switch after changing or adding new rock

Does his water come into play with my cycle? Or is that just to keep the all the bacteria and livestock in known parameters?

 

[polyppal]

The rock and bacteria wouldn't have a problem surviving that, seems like it could work. I would check his levels and try to match your salinity/temp/etc to what the fish are used to as much as you could to make it easier on them

 

[borillion]

yea, your nitrate is 50 ppm(?) you want to get that down, I think 2 to 5 maximum is what we are supposed to target.,

 

[polyppal]

Does his water come into play with my cycle? Or is that just to keep the all the bacteria and livestock in known parameters?

the bacteria is established on the rock/sand, not so much water column. the water would be more about chemistry of what tank inhabs are used to

 

[fishguy242]

basically insta cycle,his est.rock,water

 

[borillion]

Taking the water means there isn't a salinity shock for the livestock going into your tank.

The rock and bacteria wouldn't have a problem surviving that, seems like it could work. I would check his levels and try to match your salinity/temp/etc to what the fish are used to as much as you could to make it easier on them

 

[polyppal]

basically insta cycle,his est.rock,water

lol yeah your essentially just changing the glass its contained in

 

[fishguy242]

keep us posted ,how it goes

 

[3sgterror]

All, much appreciated for the quick responses as I was stressing out over this and none of the livestock is even mine yet.

I will be picking up everything tomorrow afternoon, so I will report back on how the transition goes.

 

[3sgterror]

yea, your nitrate is 50 ppm(?) you want to get that down, I think 2 to 5 maximum is what we are supposed to target.,

My Nitrates testing spiked when my Nitrites increased. I was reading that this is kind of a false result due to the way the test works. This is beyond my scope of knowledge, but they said because the Nitrate test is a reduction test, that during a Nitrite spike, you will get false elevated readings from the test.

Prior to my Nitrites spiking, I was in the 5-10 ppm range.

 

[polyppal]

In regards to your Hippo - even if he can accommodate the small tank for a few weeks, they are not a particularly easy/beginner fish and have their challenges. He might be just fine, but if it were me id look to sell/trade him to another hobbyist or lfs...

 

[3sgterror]

In regards to your Hippo - even if he can accommodate the small tank for a few weeks, they are not a particularly easy/beginner fish and have their challenges. He might be just fine, but if it were me id look to sell/trade him to another hobbyist or lfs...

Thank you for this response. If you don't mind me asking, what is challenging about this type of fish? I would like to keep it if possible. I know it will eventually get too big for my tanks and I will have to re-home anyway, but I would like to keep it until then.

If I have to re-home the tang, so be it. I just want to make sure it is safe and healthy once it is in my possession.

 

[polyppal]

Theres a million different opinions on care/issues/etc, but I would agree with what LiveAquaria has to say about them:

Although Tangs will eat meaty foods along with the other fish in the aquarium, it is important that they are offered plenty of marine based seaweed and algae. This will strengthen the Blue Tang's immune system, reduce aggression and improve their overall health. Offer dried seaweed tied to a rock or use a veggie clip, and feed at least three times per week. Sea Veggies, Seaweed Salad and Ocean Nutrition are all ideal products and are very easy to use.

Proper care of the Blue Tang requires a slightly higher degree of dedication and attention as it is more susceptible to lateral line disease, fin erosion, Ich and other skin parasites than many other fish. Ensure highest water quality and a varied diet, rich in nutritious marine-base vegetables to keep your Blue Tang in optimal health.

Many of the Tangs are known as 'Ich Magnets', because they are more susceptible to it than heartier fish like Damsel/Clowns. If the tang gets sick it could easily spread to the other fish in the system

 

[laverda]

The high nitrates just mean your cycle is progressing as it should. Nitrates are not an issue as they are not toxic to fish at even 3 times your levels. Generally speaking you want to aim to reducing them to around 20 if you are going to have SPS you will want to reduce them to under 10.
Adding the established live tock should be enough to complete it pretty quickly if not instantly. Good luck!

 

[Tamberav]

A 1 inch tang in a 13g is troublesome. Just no space and they need a lot of food at that size to stay healthy and grow. They are prone to disease and tiny spaces can be stressful. The tiny hippos are actually more delicate.

Your 70g would be better off with a tomini or kole than a hippo anyways.