** Accidental Alk Overdose (Part A Siphon into Tank) ** (How to bring Alk Down)? Vinegar?Citric Acid? ** OTHER OPTION (Move Corals to Holding Tank)

[WallyB]

I have had 10 gallons of Kalk pump into my reef (several times). I tend to move a little slower when I overdose kalk. Yes the alk will go very high, but it goes up slowly and my corals seem to adjust. I would think pulling them all out and dumping them into water that is 3-4DKH lower may do more harm than good. Given time, the alk will come back down.
Cheers! Mark

I hear your points. However I had minutes to make a decision at 1am Last night (before going past the point of no return)

The Corals were moved within 1 hour, and my Frag Tank get's water changes from the DT, so they went litteraly into the same water they were in a hour earlier.

Yes they did go thru a double Alk Shift (on up and one down) but again, all within 1 hour.

Corals look fantastic in the Frag Tank.
I think I did the right thing. WELL SEE.

I just cleaned the 110G DT like never before (never could be possible with Corals on rock).

Just about to do another 30 Gal water change as soon as Water Reaches DT temp.

My DT ALK is now at 12.8, so next water change should bring it down to approx 11.36.

 

[Thespammailaccount]

Every time I get tired of dosing by hand and think about automating the process I read a post like this. It hurts reading this post I hope everything is ok

 

[Daddy-o]

I hear your points. However I had minutes to make a decision at 1am Last night (before going past the point of no return)

The Corals were moved within 1 hour, and my Frag Tank get's water changes from the DT, so they went litteraly into the same water they were in a hour earlier.

Yes they did go thru a double Alk Shift (on up and one down) but again, all within 1 hour.

Corals look fantastic in the Frag Tank.
I think I did the right thing. WELL SEE.

I just cleaned the 110G DT like never before (never could be possible with Corals on rock).

Just about to do another 30 Gal water change as soon as Water Reaches DT temp.

My DT ALK is now at 12.8, so next water change should bring it down to approx 11.36.

Sounds good!

 

[WallyB]

Getting back on Track (Slowly)

I did the 2nd Water Change. Last one was Last night.

Calcium and Mag is Perfect.

I'm adding KNO3 to bring up Nitrates. At least up to 2.5ppm. (where DT was before Alk Spike).
Nothing I can do for Phosphates (except I turned down my GFO)

The Tank is Clearing up after a good scrub/power wash.

Next is to check the Frag Tank (holding Tank) Water Params (PO4/ Nitrates) since I never test.
The corals I removed from DT are looking Amazing. **BETTER THAN they were in DT **
I bet N&P is higher than my DT Was (N=2.5ppm and P=0.06ppm)

I will bring up DT to N&P Close to Levels in Frag Tank, so that when I start Restoration, So Corals won't go thru a Nutrient Drop.

I have VERY HIGH CONFIDENCE things will go well.

Small worry...I haven't seen my Black Cap Basslet Fish recently. (hope he never jumped out...Not on floor).
He does hide so maybe he will come out eventually.

 

[WallyB]

A third rung of options involves adding a mineral acid such as muriatic acid (HCl or hydrochloric acid) or sulfuric acid. I’ve added HCl to my aquarium in similar situations without difficulty. When performing such a mineral acid treatment, be very careful not to overshoot, and to monitor the pH during any acid additions. I would intervene in this fashion only if I could monitor the pH in real time, and could add the acid to a high flow area far from any organism. Diluting the acid in water (say, 20:1 or 100:1) prior to adding it to the tank is highly recommended for the safety of both the aquarist and the tank’s inhabitants (diluting vinegar, which is already dilute, isn’t necessary). One other drawback to adding a mineral acid is that it reduces the alkalinity. In such a case, the result may be elevated calcium and reduced alkalinity that will require significant correction.

I assume that means I can do the Muratic in my New Water to lower Alk for Water Changes.
My last water change with Alk=8.0, didn't bring down Alk very much.
I will run out of time at this rate. I have a time limit. Friday before I leave.
Wish to restore the tank (Corals) before then.

 

[WallyB]

ANOTHER IDEA!! ( Bring ALK UP )

I was just about to dump the DT Water Change water, but I stopped.
I have 6x Five Gallon Buckets of good DT water (except for High Alk).

Why not slowly bring up the HOLDING Tank with Water Changes from old DT water.
While the DT Alk Drops over next few days.

When both Match, I can trasnfer the Corals Back to DT. (meet half way)

I tested the Holding Tank, and not Bad (except for the High PO4 since I don't use GFO), and of course ALK mis-match.

Doing the Water change on the Holding tank will be easy match up.

For Nitrates, (I bring up both DT & Holding) with KNO3 to a nice 5.0.

For Phosphates the solution will be:

- Feed DT Extra over next few days to bring up P to 0.1 ppm.
- Water CHanges on Holding Tank (should bring down P, without GFO)

 

[fishguy242]

wow ,did not get dinged,seen last night,amazing info here"the rapid reboot" nice,sounds logical,meet in middle say 10 dkh,i'm with you ,think can be done,following,best wishes
and quick thinking and actions,saved them corals last night
buck the system "nothing happens fast"..old school move react now..jmo

 

[WallyB]

wow ,did not get dinged,seen last night,amazing info here"the rapid reboot" nice,sounds logical,meet in middle say 10 dkh,i'm with you ,think can be done,following,best wishes
and quick thinking and actions,saved them corals last night
buck the system "nothing happens fast"..old school move react now..jmo

THanks. I'm proud of my HACKED on the fly, Speed where needed, but slow and steady approach.

I was ticked I didn't have any vinegar in the house. Now I'm glad I didn't.

Really Glad I didn't dump the Water today (First bucket was hanging over sink when I said STOP)
(I did dump the WC last night)

I kind of mapped out the Water Change Plan.
I can adjust, but this is kind of what will happen if I just do Daily Water changes (to holding tank) 5 Gallons of DT re-use.

I have 30 Gallons to use from DT.

Doesn't account for the DT to drop in ALK. Which may bring me to Match Sooner.

I will have to work on N & P as mentioned in last post. (should be easy)

 

[WallyB]

Some Insurance (for the Holding Tank)

I've stopped using these for the DT for quite some time. But have left over in the Fridge.
Can't hurt.....might help.

Just 1 drop each. Nutrients, Aminos, Vitamins, and some bacteria.

So far the Corals look perfect. (finger crossed they stay that way)

Busy 24 hours. Time to rest.

 

[fishguy242]

great..i'm following ,wifi went down..lets see some growth rings on them corals by wed

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

@Randy Holmes-Farley

Am I missing the Point. Are you trying to state that PH is my highest concern. Not my Alk Spike.
My PH is back to normal. My corals are in another tank.

I see your three options below.
(NOTE: no Corals in Tank.....Only Fish. I understand Watching PH is important, even for fish)

Soda Water? (like Bubbly Pop, in liquid form.Bottles) I'll read up.

Vinegar I've tried in past. May consider that. Downside is the Bacteria issue.

However can I do something with the Muriatic Acid. I'm making up 60 Gals of New Salt Water.
Red Sea Blue Bucket, Which will mix to Alk=8dkh at 35ppt.

If my DT alk is 14dkh and I mix in 50% new Water 8 dkh, that will only bring me down to ALK=11dKH.

Can I prepare the New Water by adding Muratic Acid. To bring down Alk to (leT'S Pick 5 dkh)
The Water CHange will bring Alk down to (14+5)/2 = 9.5 dkH and then I wait out the Drop to 8.0 Naturally.
The Muratic Acid will be properly mixed before adding new Water into Tank.

I am trying to speed this up since I'm going away This Friday for a week.

Or is it better to Add Muratic Acid to DT (slowly, bit by bit till Alk is down to Target 8.0-8.5)?

I am saying that the immediate need in an overdose situation that can be corrected is elevated pH, if it is still very high (which yours is not).

I'm not sure I'd recommend a rapid drop in alk at this point.

 

[WallyB]

DT Day 2 ( Cleared up. All Fish found ) ** No Coral Damage to Corals left behind **

Finally, My black Capped Basset Peeked out. He didn't jump out.

The Tank is now Crystal Clear and Rocks as good as they get. (I scrubbed off a few annoying Cabbage Algae Patches)

I left behind one PacMan Acro. No damage from Spike. The Orange Setosa wasn't possible to remove. It's fine.
However it may take time for damage to show up. I'm still happy I janked Corals and cleaned the tank.

Corals in Holding tank all fine.

One thing I didn't mention, is that when I decided to remove all the corals is was too easy.
Half the Frags were barely hanging on. I used Putty and Cryano glue.
This time, I'm going to mount them better. Good Clean Surface to bind to is key.

 

[WallyB]

Water Matching (Day 2)

This is after Today's 5 Gallon Water Change on Holding Tank (using Old Spiked DT Water)

No Point measuring Calc,Mag, it's predictable.

Alk is Getting Close (Almost Natually in DT by Dropping) DT=10.75 HoldingTank=9.4 (Difference of 1.35 dKH)

However PO4 in Holding Tank actually rose (tiny), but that could just be Water StirUp and Sensivity of the Hanna Tester. But P is stuck in General.

So I'm going to help things move along with N&P Match

Both Tanks will get KNO3 to Bring up and Match up N03.

The Holding Tank is getting a Tiny Bit of GFO (to bring down P), while I watch P closely to not Spike down!!

 

[fishguy242]

right track..ph??

 

[WallyB]

right track..ph??

THe PH already recovered a day earlier. Within 12 hours after Spike.
It's all back to normal.

 

[WallyB]

THE FREAKING IS OVER and the Restoration FUN BEGINS

I'm not Rushing with the SPS, but I do want the Rock pieces back ASAP. I have Aptasia in the Holding Tank.
Took me a while to get rid of Aips in the DT (with Berghia's). I got berghia's in the Holding Tank but you never know.

First piece back is my prized Turbinaria, grown from a Pup.
Took me an hour to figure out a new Position to open up space, and tuck it's large grown/shading area away.

Turbinaria is a Hardy LPS and been thru all kinds of abuse. It can handle the move.
I'll see how it reacts. If Happy it will PE out nicely. (It already did after a few minutes).

Took advantage of a chance of a lifetime......To get a photo while out of tank.

It's Glued Back.....Solid in the Tank now. Never Coming out Ever Again (I hope )

 

[fishguy242]

NICE!!!..wanna see a monster stunner out of water..doing it anyways

 

[WallyB]

Turbinaria Back Home ( AND HAPPY )

A hour in the Tank. Things look good, it woke up with Happy PE.

I think this Thread (the Emergency is Over)......

Back to the Tank Thread for the Restoration Phases.

★★★-project-genesis-ii-2020-★-re-engineered-reboot-★-sps-110g-★★★

 

[WallyB]

Closing Comment.....To STATE the Facts (not all is perfect)......(GOOD CATCH)

So I just noticed this. My Phoenix Monti that was perly white with Rainbow colors, looks very VERY Brown.
I never paid attention yesterday. Maybe I have a photo.

Nothing to do with the Alk Spike since it happend before in my DT.

I believe this is related to the Phosphate Spike UP going into the Holding Tank. (High P=0.5), when DT was P=0.06 (It's nothing to do with Nitrates since both tanks are on low side)

It could be the Extra Feeding of Coral Foods, Aminos (in the Small 35 Holding Tank)...Not sure.

It will recover like it did before when I brought down P in my DT (months ago....SLOWLY)

So it's a good thing to notice....for next steps in this Transfer Back.

The P is High in my Holding tank and nothing is worse than a P drop for SPS. (which a move right now would do)

This means I better bring down P in the Holding Tank slowly (as I started with GFO), and bring up P in the DT before I transfer the SPS back.

I will be montoring P a little more Closer.

 

[WallyB]

Dug up a photo.

Maybe Above is not true.

The Pheonix Monti looked brown the Night I move into the Holding tank. It didn't brown Out on the way over.

It could just be the Lighting.

Or lack of lighting since I notice this while lights are off.
DUH!! (All the corals kind of look brown )

However better to be Safe than Sorry! (P spike Down, Alk Spike Up are both to be avoided)