Need help, is this ICH?

Hanate · May 1, 2022

Got a blue tang about 1 week ago, i am very new to the hobby and i was very busy the whole week. When i got the blue tang, i acclimated him, put him in the tank and left for work.
Today i noticed he has very tiny white spots on his upper black part of the body, im afraid its ich.

Edit: I bought the tang from a guy who is moving, he has had the tang for 1 Year. I bought a bangaii cardinal from the same guy (and tank) 1 month ago, he is healthy.

Ammonia, nitrite: 0, nitrate 0-1. Temp 25C (was 26C on friday, i turned it down to 25C, i have a temp controller so the temp is stable otherwise). Phosphate: nearly 0, cant read an exact value.

The tang is about 8-9cm in length.

The spots are about 1/10mm in diameter.

I recently purchased a QT tank but have not set it up yet, i could fill it with water now and move the fish to the QT, but i am not sure if this would be good for the fish.

Some places i read tell me the ich is everywhere in the DT anyway and there is no point of moving the fish, some say moving it to a QT will cause more issues.

The fish eat VERY well (like a pig), i have not seem him scrath himself on rocks (he does hide in a cave if i get too close, he is still a little shy if i come near the DT, but never seen him scratch).
The fish is very active, swims around and explores his tank, not agressive and no other fish are agressive towards him either.

All parameters are good, only changes made was an increase in Calsium and ALK, as well as 3 new rocks being added to the sump to increase bio-filtration.EDIT: I bought the fish from a guy who had to move his tank, i bought the tang and a bangaii cardinal. The cardinal was bought 1 month ago, tang 1 week ago. He has had this fish in his system for around 1 Year without issues, .

MnFish1 · May 1, 2022

Hanate said:
Got a blue tang about 1 week ago, i am very new to the hobby and i was very busy the whole week. When i got the blue tang, i acclimated him, put him in the tank and left for work.
Today i noticed he has very tiny white spots on his upper black part of the body, im afraid its ich.

Edit: I bought the tang from a guy who is moving, he has had the tang for 1 Year. I bought a bangaii cardinal from the same guy (and tank) 1 month ago, he is healthy.

Ammonia, nitrite: 0, nitrate 0-1. Temp 25C (was 26C on friday, i turned it down to 25C, i have a temp controller so the temp is stable otherwise). Phosphate: nearly 0, cant read an exact value.

The tang is about 8-9cm in length.

The spots are about 1/10mm in diameter.

I recently purchased a QT tank but have not set it up yet, i could fill it with water now and move the fish to the QT, but i am not sure if this would be good for the fish.

Some places i read tell me the ich is everywhere in the DT anyway and there is no point of moving the fish, some say moving it to a QT will cause more issues.

The fish eat VERY well (like a pig), i have not seem him scrath himself on rocks (he does hide in a cave if i get too close, he is still a little shy if i come near the DT, but never seen him scratch).
The fish is very active, swims around and explores his tank, not agressive and no other fish are agressive towards him either.

All parameters are good, only changes made was an increase in Calsium and ALK, as well as 3 new rocks being added to the sump to increase bio-filtration.EDIT: I bought the fish from a guy who had to move his tank, i bought the tang and a bangaii cardinal. The cardinal was bought 1 month ago, tang 1 week ago. He has had this fish in his system for around 1 Year without issues, .

A couple comments:

1. Your post is an OUTSTANDING example of how to ask these types of questions here - and the pictures are excellent.
2. ICH (Cryptocaryon) is not in every display tank.
3. I do not think its entirely possible to tell at this stage from the pictures - whether its ICH or early velvet. I would guess CI.
4. I would treat this fish - and the rest of your fish with a copper protocol - and leave the tank fallow (the display) - for 45-76 days depending on which protocol you would like to use.

PS - you're correct - there are fish that have partial immunity to CI - and will get spots periodically - and they are managed fine - and the stress of moving it - may have flared something up. The problem is - there is no way to predict whats 'going to happen'. If I were you - I would consider this a 'treatment' - as compared to a quarantine situation. I'm sure others will weigh in

threebuoys · May 1, 2022

Welcome to R2R!

You will find differing schools of thought for the treatment of crypto or velvet and the use of quarantine tanks on R2R.

Typically, the FishMedic squad recommends the use of quarantine and prophylactic treatment for all fish added into an established display tank system.

QT protocol is described here:

Current Quarantine Protocol

2021 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding...

www.reef2reef.com

Also, diagnosis can sometimes be difficult, more information is often needed.

Some Helpful Hints When Posting or Responding to Threads in the Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis Section

Aquarium Fish Disease Problem Solving Determining the best course of action for a problem with your aquarium can be a difficult task. Even advanced aquarists will often need to seek the help of others for complicated or unique issues. Our intent here on Reef 2 Reef is to offer expert advice...

www.reef2reef.com

The spots on the tang may be a sign of crypto, or may be attributed to mucus plugs which sometime appear of tangs. You should question the previous owner about his system over the past year to determine if any clues point more to one direction or the other.

I'm not familiar with which products are available in Norway. In the states, Copper Safe and Copper Power are two of the frequently used treatments for crypto or velvet.

MnFish1 · May 1, 2022

threebuoys said:
Welcome to R2R!

You will find differing schools of thought for the treatment of crypto or velvet and the use of quarantine tanks on R2R.

Typically, the FishMedic squad recommends the use of quarantine and prophylactic treatment for all fish added into an established display tank system.

QT protocol is described here:

Current Quarantine Protocol

2021 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed quarantine process can effectively eliminate these parasites before adding...

www.reef2reef.com

Also, diagnosis can sometimes be difficult, more information is often needed.

Some Helpful Hints When Posting or Responding to Threads in the Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis Section

Aquarium Fish Disease Problem Solving Determining the best course of action for a problem with your aquarium can be a difficult task. Even advanced aquarists will often need to seek the help of others for complicated or unique issues. Our intent here on Reef 2 Reef is to offer expert advice...

www.reef2reef.com

The spots on the tang may be a sign of crypto, or may be attributed to mucus plugs which sometime appear of tangs. You should question the previous owner about his system over the past year to determine if any clues point more to one direction or the other.

I'm not familiar with which products are available in Norway. In the states, Copper Safe and Copper Power are two of the frequently used treatments for crypto or velvet.

Agree on the fact that its unclear what the spots are. And tangs do sometimes get weird areas.

Billldg · May 1, 2022

Hanate said:
Got a blue tang about 1 week ago, i am very new to the hobby and i was very busy the whole week. When i got the blue tang, i acclimated him, put him in the tank and left for work.
Today i noticed he has very tiny white spots on his upper black part of the body, im afraid its ich.

Edit: I bought the tang from a guy who is moving, he has had the tang for 1 Year. I bought a bangaii cardinal from the same guy (and tank) 1 month ago, he is healthy.

Ammonia, nitrite: 0, nitrate 0-1. Temp 25C (was 26C on friday, i turned it down to 25C, i have a temp controller so the temp is stable otherwise). Phosphate: nearly 0, cant read an exact value.

The tang is about 8-9cm in length.

The spots are about 1/10mm in diameter.

I recently purchased a QT tank but have not set it up yet, i could fill it with water now and move the fish to the QT, but i am not sure if this would be good for the fish.

Some places i read tell me the ich is everywhere in the DT anyway and there is no point of moving the fish, some say moving it to a QT will cause more issues.

The fish eat VERY well (like a pig), i have not seem him scrath himself on rocks (he does hide in a cave if i get too close, he is still a little shy if i come near the DT, but never seen him scratch).
The fish is very active, swims around and explores his tank, not agressive and no other fish are agressive towards him either.

All parameters are good, only changes made was an increase in Calsium and ALK, as well as 3 new rocks being added to the sump to increase bio-filtration.EDIT: I bought the fish from a guy who had to move his tank, i bought the tang and a bangaii cardinal. The cardinal was bought 1 month ago, tang 1 week ago. He has had this fish in his system for around 1 Year without issues, .

Perfect post of a question!!!

MnFish1 said:
A couple comments:

1. Your post is an OUTSTANDING example of how to ask these types of questions here - and the pictures are excellent.
2. ICH (Cryptocaryon) is not in every display tank.
3. I do not think its entirely possible to tell at this stage from the pictures - whether its ICH or early velvet. I would guess CI.
4. I would treat this fish - and the rest of your fish with a copper protocol - and leave the tank fallow (the display) - for 45-76 days depending on which protocol you would like to use.

PS - you're correct - there are fish that have partial immunity to CI - and will get spots periodically - and they are managed fine - and the stress of moving it - may have flared something up. The problem is - there is no way to predict whats 'going to happen'. If I were you - I would consider this a 'treatment' - as compared to a quarantine situation. I'm sure others will weigh in

Perfect example of a diagnoses and response

I am currently dealing with a Ick issue, and I either QT'd my fish myself or bought from TSM Aquatics which also QT their fish the exact same way as I do. I totally disagree that Ick is in every tank. I know my tank was Ick free, it got in my another means that I know of. I totally agree with the protocol of what @MnFish1 said. I will only add to use Copperpower at a 2.5 ppm level. CP seems to be a little more forgiving on fish in my experience. I have an Achilles tang, which made it easy for me to diagnose as they are the first to show it, not sure how a Blue Hippo tang shows it.