Need to purchase a RODI unit that is both effective and reasonably priced

[Gup]

Hi Reefers. So my 55 gallon is 9 months young. My water parameters are excellent, except….Isn’t there always an except?

My GH. It’s the first time I’ve ever test it for GH. Since day one, I’ve been testing for what I consider all the more important parameters to get the tank cycled… which it is.

So I must purchase a RODI unit as we have well water. It was just not something I considered. And it is extremely high.

A portable unit at a price of $100-$125. Thanx in advance

 

[howaboutme]

You have to NOT look at the usual suspects like BRS, etc. They are overpriced and they do not provide you w/ the right products comparable to that price.

Try here:

Optima Vision 75 GPD RO DI System | Purely H2O

BePharmacy | Best WordPress theme for pharmacies

purely-h2o.com

This is similar to what you get at BRS but for much less (5 micron pre-filters):

Value RODI

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

This is better (you want 75 gpd minimum but you can always upgrade ROs):

Premium RODI System

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

For the 1st and 3rd, they all include 1 micron or less carbon and sediment filters. This saves your latter stage filters and will also take care of chloramines (if your source has it). BRS sells cheap 5 microns. Horrible.

 

[Gup]

Thank you for the effort. I’m going to look them over. As for BRS, I watch their videos to expand my reef knowledge, since I have had SFO 4 Decades ago. I get much better prices from Amazon and Chewy

I will look these over and see if I can find a nice fit.

 

[Woodyman]

Hi Reefers. So my 55 gallon is 9 months young. My water parameters are excellent, except….Isn’t there always an except?

My GH. It’s the first time I’ve ever test it for GH. Since day one, I’ve been testing for what I consider all the more important parameters to get the tank cycled… which it is.

So I must purchase a RODI unit as we have well water. It was just not something I considered. And it is extremely high.

A portable unit at a price of $100-$125. Thanx in advance

Do you know any of the parameters of your well water. That will dial in an ideal system for you.

What is your incoming TDS, pressure, temp, etc?

You can buy a cheap unit on Amazon and when it comes time to replace the filters you can swap in higher quality ones. The quality of the filters and membrane will get you high quality H2O. The branding of the unit doesn't have an affect on the quality of water, only your filters/membrane.

So if your trying to save money I'd buy a unit with at least 4-7 stages and you can buy a cheap one, just make sure you get a cheap one that will take all standard 10 inch filters. Don't get the ones that use proprietary filters!

 

[Woodyman]

 

[Quietman]

I used Koolermax the AR-122 model. I did have to replace the DI resin cartridges due to my water quality as I was burning through mixed media with my 400 ppm city water. Even with replacing that with a 3-stage DI resin canister system it was still very reasonable. The membranes/filters are proprietary but are very easy to purchase as a bundle and last as long as any.

 

[Gup]

You have to NOT look at the usual suspects like BRS, etc. They are overpriced and they do not provide you w/ the right products comparable to that price.

Try here:

Optima Vision 75 GPD RO DI System | Purely H2O

BePharmacy | Best WordPress theme for pharmacies

purely-h2o.com

This is similar to what you get at BRS but for much less (5 micron pre-filters):

Value RODI

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

This is better (you want 75 gpd minimum but you can always upgrade ROs):

Premium RODI System

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

For the 1st and 3rd, they all include 1 micron or less carbon and sediment filters. This saves your latter stage filters and will also take care of chloramines (if your source has it). BRS sells cheap 5 microns. Horrible.

Question hme. I’d like what I see in the first unit from optima. But my question is, is it worth spending the extra couple dollars to invest in one of the two more advanced units? Considering the money already spent, the additional dollars is minimal. But are they worth even the couple extra dollars

 

[Gup]

I used Koolermax the AR-122 model. I did have to replace the DI resin cartridges due to my water quality as I was burning through mixed media with my 400 ppm city water. Even with replacing that with a 3-stage DI resin canister system it was still very reasonable. The membranes/filters are proprietary but are very easy to purchase as a bundle and last as long as any.

I just looked over these units. For a similar money, to me at least seem like a bit more advanced units. Whether that is true or not, I don’t know. But there was a red flag. My water psi. Our water pressure is extremely low although I don’t know the figure. I do know that we can’t use both showers at the same time. Nor can I used to water sprinklers at the same time. With that in mind, it’s not worth the chance and then have to purchaseAnd additional pump unit. They are not exactly cheap.

Again, thank you so much for your effort

 

[Woodyman]

Question hme. I’d like what I see in the first unit from optima. But my question is, is it worth spending the extra couple dollars to invest in one of the two more advanced units? Considering the money already spent, the additional dollars is minimal. But are they worth even the couple extra dollars

I'd get as many filters as your budget allows, but if you do have low water pressure it sounds like you'll need a booster.

 

[Quietman]

No need to get what you don't need but if you need an RO membrane you're going to have to get a booster pump as they don't work well below rated input pressure. Common with well systems to need booster pumps. You can find them $50-100.

 

[Gup]

Do you know any of the parameters of your well water. That will dial in an ideal system for you.

What is your incoming TDS, pressure, temp, etc?

You can buy a cheap unit on Amazon and when it comes time to replace the filters you can swap in higher quality ones. The quality of the filters and membrane will get you high quality H2O. The branding of the unit doesn't have an affect on the quality of water, only your filters/membrane.

So if your trying to save money I'd buy a unit with at least 4-7 stages and you can buy a cheap one, just make sure you get a cheap one that will take all standard 10 inch filters. Don't get the ones that use proprietary filters!

Now this is a new and important piece of info. It makes sense that the quality of the filters would be more important than the hardware. I don’t know anything about these auto DI units but that much I can deduce.

I'd get as many filters as your budget allows, but if you do have low water pressure it sounds like you'll need a booster.

i’ve never tested my well water. Like all well water, it kind of makes sense, it’s hard. My test of the tank water was 1200, thereabouts, GH. I was shocked considering what it should be to keep my fish and corals alive, yet they are…. I would love to get away without purchasing a booster pump for any of these units. Despitewhat my water pressure MAY be, considering what I stated, is there no way I can get around it, with any unit. I pray that’s not the case.

 

[Gup]

No need to get what you don't need but if you need an RO membrane you're going to have to get a booster pump as they don't work well below rated input pressure. Common with well systems to need booster pumps. You can find them $50-100.

Well, I see you already answered my question. Wow, I hate unexpected costs. But what is, is. Now you have more knowledge about these RODI units than I. I can purchase an inexperienced booster pump but, I have no knowledge of those either. Can you or anyone give me a clue what to look for besides price?

 

[Gup]

How does this pump seem to you reefers? It’s very reasonably priced, at $44, compared to everything I’ve seen. And it appears to me, at least, like a quality pump

 

[JSchwarz]

For the 1st and 3rd, they all include 1 micron or less carbon and sediment filters. This saves your latter stage filters and will also take care of chloramines (if your source has it). BRS sells cheap 5 microns. Horrible.

While I'm not going to argue that the BRS may be overpriced, this statement is only true for the 4 stage units. BRS comes with 1 micron carbon blocks for chloramines in the bigger units. The 4 stage is targeted for people who don't have chlorine/chloramines like well water.

 

[Quietman]

With being on a well system, I would contact a filter company (most have systems to reply online now). A booster pump is going to need some input pressure to work (20-30#) so the right pump is going to depend on your system.

 

[howaboutme]

Question hme. I’d like what I see in the first unit from optima. But my question is, is it worth spending the extra couple dollars to invest in one of the two more advanced units? Considering the money already spent, the additional dollars is minimal. But are they worth even the couple extra dollars

I think is is already answered. It depends on your water source. But like someone said previous, no need to get what you don't need.

edit...FWIW, I use purelyh20. I've had it for almost 10 years. Let it sit for 4 yrs and still good to go (replaced filters of course). Also know that almost all of the units are exactly the same, 10" housing, metal frame, tubing, etc. All same. Some may have inferior fittings but hard to gauge that in the short term.

 

[howaboutme]

While I'm not going to argue that the BRS may be overpriced, this statement is only true for the 4 stage units. BRS comes with 1 micron carbon blocks for chloramines in the bigger units. The 4 stage is targeted for people who don't have chlorine/chloramines like well water.

Agreed. You can always purchase upgraded units but I'm only referring to the most basic units. I knew someone was going to mention this but thought I was being obvious. If you compare apples to apples, BRS, no-go.

Like I said, you do not need extra stages if you do 1 micron or less pre-filters. Don't let marketing get cha.

 

[Mike konesky]

With being on a well system, I would contact a filter company (most have systems to reply online now). A booster pump is going to need some input pressure to work (20-30#) so the right pump is going to depend on your system.

The aquatec does fine being fed with 0psi. I start with 0psi and run my last set of membranes at 90psi. Input pressure doesn't bother it at all.

 

[Woodyman]

I would start basic you can add and remove as needed down the road as you tune the system. But having extra filters up front doesn't hurt you can use them in a different sequence later or even as media reactors later on your tank.

To start I would say start with a 5 stage minimum, but more wouldn't hurt if you don't mind the incremental cost increase.

I'd run a 1 micron sediment followed by a 1 or 5 micron carbon being on well water you probably don't have chloramines to worry about (depending on what feeds your well you could have some other nasty VOCs and need a second carbon, but you can always add on later, so you don't necessarily need 2 from the start).

If you want to save some water I would say get 2 ROs otherwise you could trim some cost and run a single RO membrane.

1 mixed bed DI cart. This is another instance where down the road you could change to 2, 3, or even 4 DI housings depending on how you decide to tune the system.

1 will be fine for now, but if you notice you burn through it quickly you will likely want to add an additional DI housing(s).

So 2 pre-filters (sediment and carbon), 1 RO (or 2) membrane, and 1 DI housing. Brings your total to a 4 (or 5) stage system recommend minimum.

Then down the road you can always add additional sediment, carbon, RO, and DI housings as needed. Being that you have well water I would assume (but this could be wrong based on your source water parameters) you will want additional housings down the road. Which is why I recommend at least a 6 stage (2 RO, and 2 DI). If you find you blow through sediment or carbon you can always add in another and step them down from say 5 micron to the 1 micron, but again all this is for later evaluation.

4 stage bare minimum, 5-6 would probably be ideal, and 7+ would be best. It's all up to how crazy or simple you want to go with this and how much cleaner you want the water to be. Of course best practice would be 7+ stages, however people with great source water can produce ultra pure water with less, so again it's all about how 'bad'/impure your source water is, but as you know you can certainly run a tank without any too.

 

[Woodyman]

I would start basic you can add and remove as needed down the road as you tune the system. But having extra filters up front doesn't hurt you can use them in a different sequence later or even as media reactors later on your tank.

To start I would say start with a 5 stage minimum, but more wouldn't hurt if you don't mind the incremental cost increase.

I'd run a 1 micron sediment followed by a 1 or 5 micron carbon being on well water you probably don't have chloramines to worry about (depending on what feeds your well you could have some other nasty VOCs and need a second carbon, but you can always add on later, so you don't necessarily need 2 from the start).

If you want to save some water I would say get 2 ROs otherwise you could trim some cost and run a single RO membrane.

1 mixed bed DI cart. This is another instance where down the road you could change to 2, 3, or even 4 DI housings depending on how you decide to tune the system.

1 will be fine for now, but if you notice you burn through it quickly you will likely want to add an additional DI housing(s).

So 2 pre-filters (sediment and carbon), 1 RO (or 2) membrane, and 1 DI housing. Brings your total to a 4 (or 5) stage system recommend minimum.

Then down the road you can always add additional sediment, carbon, RO, and DI housings as needed. Being that you have well water I would assume (but this could be wrong based on your source water parameters) you will want additional housings down the road. Which is why I recommend at least a 6 stage (2 RO, and 2 DI). If you find you blow through sediment or carbon you can always add in another and step them down from say 5 micron to the 1 micron, but again all this is for later evaluation.

4 stage bare minimum, 5-6 would probably be ideal, and 7+ would be best. It's all up to how crazy or simple you want to go with this and how much cleaner you want the water to be. Of course best practice would be 7+ stages, however people with great source water can produce ultra pure water with less, so again it's all about how 'bad'/impure your source water is, but as you know you can certainly run a tank without any too.

You could always skip the DI as well if you really wanted to trim cost and just run 3 stages (sediment, carbon, RO). It wouldn't be giving you ultra pure water, but it would significantly improve vs straight from the well.

You have plenty of options, it's up to you how far you want to go with this.