Fishroom Reality Check

[JoshH]

It’s seemed to be code for finishing a basement to provide a moisture barrier. But the 2 walls are already coated with drylok and are dry. The particular contractor I’m talking too also thought it unnecessary, and he didn’t do it in his own basement (which presumably passed code).

Interesting, we use vapour barrier up here (8Mil poly) though foam doesn't hurt. I would look up your local codes and confirm whether it's 100% needed or not, if not I would skip it myself. MAYBE up the R value on the Roxul If you REALLY want to but not really necessary.

 

[chefjpaul]

Or... just keep everything display ready and dont put up walls

 

[theMeat]

Drylock isn’t usually a good idea on the inside. If water passes through it will get trapped and eventually pull some of the cement off with it. Like a very slow motion explosion.

I would use regular fiberglass insulation, but leave it 6 inches or so short from floor. As well as Tyvek or similar between outside wall, and inside insulation

 

[User]

Drylock isn’t usually a good idea on the inside. If water passes through it will get trapped and eventually pull some of the cement off with it. Like a very slow motion explosion.

I would use regular fiberglass insulation, but leave it 6 inches or so short from floor. As well as Tyvek or similar between outside wall, and inside insulation

Weird- drylok is specifically marketed as an interior wall moisture barrier. Irregardless- in my particular use, I think it’ll be fine- 25 year old house, cinder block basement walls are totally dry on the inside. We had extensive tests done before purchase and the guy said that in his 20 years, he’s only ever seen a handful with zero moisture in the walls. We got very lucky with that.


So- skip the r2 XPS foam and go with tyvek sheet? Why stop 6 inches from floor? Concrete will be sealed with epoxy, which I’ll run a few inches up the wall, then I’ll put a rubber base trim moulding.

 

[User]

Or... just keep everything display ready and dont put up walls

Display ready? Not sure I understand. It’s going to be finished to a high standard and will essentially be good to look at, but inside the room.

I’m enclosing it because I don’t want my tools and ac ducts to rust out and I do woodworking and electronics. I’d rather not have woodchips and dust getting into my water .

 

[User]

Interesting, we use vapour barrier up here (8Mil poly) though foam doesn't hurt. I would look up your local codes and confirm whether it's 100% needed or not, if not I would skip it myself. MAYBE up the R value on the Roxul If you REALLY want to but not really necessary.

Yeah, the foam is considered a vbl, and has R2 value. Which, honestly, is crap, since I could get that with a 1.5” air gap.

But you agree that fiberglass batting insulation inside all of the walls is the way to go?

 

[theMeat]

Yeah so drylock is already giving you vapor barrier. Tyvek will not allow water to pass but moisture will. Fiberglass insulation also has barrier. Since you already have vapor barrier, avoid another one or moisture can get trapped in between making a bacteria sandwich.
Insulation off the floor a bit Incase water ever does get on the floor, it won’t start capillary action pulling it up the wall, and will simply avoid the water, and getting wet.
Unless you use spray on insulation, rolled fiberglass will, because it’s soft, fill the voids better than rigid

 

[User]

Good stuff, thanks!

 

[JoshH]

I'd just go with Roxul insulation right to the bottom, no need for a gap as water doesn't affect it, I'll never use fiberglass for walls and do not use spray in on new construction with new wood framing

 

[User]

unfortunately, going full Roxul will double the cost of the insulation- id rather save there and go for the gap. im trying to trim the construction budget so i can get this started .

any particular reason to avoid the fiberglass?

 

[JoshH]

unfortunately, going full Roxul will double the cost of the insulation- id rather save there and go for the gap. im trying to trim the construction budget so i can get this started .

any particular reason to avoid the fiberglass?

Well mainly if you had the option Roxul beats out fiberglass in every aspect so for me fiberglass just isn't worth it. You could go for Roxul on the bottom 12" then fiber glass above that to maintain a solid layer of insulation. Roxul is just so much easier to work with, it holds it's form and doesn't sag over time like fiberglass does in wall cavities. It doesn't absorb water, doesn't burn, critters don't eat it. It's by far my favourite for wall applications

 

[braappn]

No need for marine grade plywood. Pretty sure it uses the same glue as any exterior plywood. It is not more waterproof, but rather structurally stronger. You are paying for pieces that don’t have voids/knots in the plys.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

Afraid I don't have much advice other than I agree with DIY as much as you can if you want to save money. But... Did you say you are in Suwanee, GA and you have a boiler and had 3 feet of snow this winter ? I think I'm going to stay over here east of Atlanta !

Jason

 

[User]

Afraid I don't have much advice other than I agree with DIY as much as you can if you want to save money. But... Did you say you are in Suwanee, GA and you have a boiler and had 3 feet of snow this winter ? I think I'm going to stay over here east of Atlanta !

Jason

Lol, yeah- we just moved from Nashville and I was assured the winter wouldn’t be as bad down here. Wife is an Atlanta native, Alpharetta, and hadn’t seen snow growing up. I took her to Tahoe 10 years ago and she saw her first snow.

She woke up one morning in January and was so confused. We’d had snowfall over night and she couldn’t get the car out the garage. 3 feet lasted about 2 days, but we had snow for around 3 weeks.

And the boiler- house is 25 years old. Pilot went out a couple weeks ago and it was taking forever for the guy to get parts. It was a 16 year old boiler by a now defunct company, so we went ahead and replaced it.

Where are you?

 

[Spdstr280Z]

I'm in (well, outside of) Athens. I knew there was some snow around Atlanta this winter that didn't make it this far east, but I had no idea it was that much. I grew up in NC and lived in the foothills, then the Raleigh area before GA. I've never seen that much snow in the South ! Max I remember is 21 inches when I was in Raleigh.

Jason

 

[User]

Nice. I saw your build thread- very nice curio cabinet built in. Good stuff!

 

[User]

To keep up interest, and a free bump- here’s the (almost) finished ‘picture frame’ on the living room side of the tank.

This is the office side. Need to paint then do plumbing. Built in cabinets around it will be a future addition.

 

[Johnny K]

What about using FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) or NRP (non fiberglass reinforced plastic) on the walls with plywood? They usually come in 4x8 sheets. I used NRP in my fishroom, if installed correctly it makes the wall waterproof.

 

[Johnny K]

What about using FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) or NRP (non fiberglass reinforced plastic) on the plywood walls? I used NRP in my fishroom. It comes in 4x8 sheets, and if installed correctly it makes the wall waterproof.

 

[User]

What about using FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) or NRP (non fiberglass reinforced plastic) on the plywood walls? I used NRP in my fishroom. It comes in 4x8 sheets, and if installed correctly it makes the wall waterproof.

Dude, I’m trying to REDUCE the budget, not add to it.

Seriously though, I really do like those panels, and the aesthetic is awesome. I originally priced the room out for it but I can get 2 gallons of killz2 and a gallon of top coat paint fir the cost of 2 panels. Also have to factor in the adhesive for the panels, and the ‘seam connectors ’... I really can’t justify the cost and effort to install compared to the painted ply.

Do you have a fishroom build thread- would be great to see

Cheers!