New 90g Tank - Long Read with a Plan!

Siberwulf

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First up: Thanks for reading this. It's a lot. I'm super excited get back into this, and this community (lurking here!) has been great!

Hey all, I’m back in the hobby again. I've been lurking here for a little while and soaking it all in. Quite a bit has changed since my previous setup and I want to kinda get on paper(ish) what my plan of attack is, and open it up to feedback and suggestions. Almost none of this is set in stone, so please do poke me where you see a blatantly stupid approach to something.

Goal
The goal is for a LPS and Fish. I'm leaving the door open for SPS (you'll see where). Also the plan is to go modified Triton method.

Phases
I see this split into the following high-level phases
  1. Tank, Stand, Plumbing
  2. Live Rock
  3. Fish
  4. Corals
Phase 1 - Tank, Stand and Plumbing

The goal here is to get the tank running in the garage and mitigate any "omg where is the water coming from" issues before I bring it inside.

Phase 1 Steps
  1. Buy the Tank - 90 gallon Planet Aquarium with a Center Column Overflow (done!)
  2. Build the Stand (almost done!)
  3. Plumb the tank. Have two 1" bulkheads and one 3/4" bulkhead. Will be going Herbie style for this, mostly because quiet and don't want a flood if things die.
  4. Create a cover for the overflow to keep critters out of there.
  5. Check for Leaks!
  6. Build the Sump
    1. Will be using a 29 gallon Aqueon
    2. Installing a Fuji Cube Kit
      1. The plan is to split into three chambers (going Triton). It comes with Socks holders, but that's not necessary. I'll hang onto them, but won't install them.
        1. Chamber 1 is the refugium. (At 13" in length, it'll hold about 9.8 gallons which meets Triton's 10% guideline.)
        2. Chamber 2 is the Skimmer
        3. Chamber 3/4 is the bubble trap and the return.
  7. Test Failure scenarios - In case of "XYZ", do I keep water off the floor. Here's what I plan to test
    1. Return pump power dies
    2. Main overflow gets clogged (I'll shut the gate valve)
    3. Main and emergency get clogged (snail-pocalypse?). The hopes is that the Sump doesn't have enough volume in the return section to flood the DT.
Phase 1 Equipment
  • Display Tank - 90 gallon Planet Aquarium
  • Sump - 29 gallon Aqueon
  • Stand - Custom Built
  • Fuji Baffle Kit
  • Return Pump - Cor 20 (I don't think I'll get the full 10x DT per hour return rate on this, but I have another mitigation technique I want to try)
  • 2 x Grounding Probe (sump and DT)
  • Plumbing
    • 1" Gate Valve
    • 2 x 1" Bulkhead
    • 1 x 3/4" Bulkhead
    • 1 x 1" Bulkhead Strainer
    • Misc PVC for connecting the magics

Phase 2 - Live Rock

Once I have a tank tested and running for a week or so in my garage, I can move into getting something living in here.

Phase 2 Steps:
  1. Install Apex Controller
  2. Install Skimmer - This skimmer may be a little light on paper, noting it's 65g for heavy load and 110g for medium load. I figured with a larger fuge, this should be ok. I've left myself some space to either increase the size if I had to, or to add an external behind the sump if absolutely necessary. Is this common?
  3. Install the Heaters - Then plan is to go with dual heaters in case one dies or flips out.
  4. Install the Sump light
  5. Setup Leak Detection Kits
  6. Throw down the rock and sand
  7. Setup RODI Kit
    1. Not sure if I need 4 or 5 stage here. Here's a link to the City's water quality report: https://www.mckinneytexas.org/DocumentCenter/View/127/Water-Quality-Report-2020?bidId= and it does say that Chloramines averaged 2.8 but went up to 4.0...I don't know what "too high is". Do I need 5?
  8. Cycle the tank - I plan on going with a fishless cycle here. I know this may take a little longer, but it's ok.
    1. I've heard mixed reviews on running the skimmer during the cycle, but I'm thinking it'll help pull other junk out? Is this a good idea?
  9. Add Chaeto while I cycle. The goal is not to go through the ugly brown phase in the DT. Is this too early?
  10. Once the tank is fully cycled, I'll add in the QT's Foam Filter to the Sump so it can start getting populated with the good bacteria.

Phase 2 Equipment:

Phase 3 - Fish

Now that the tank is cycled, it's time to get some livestock in there. Utility fish are the first goal.

Phase 3 Steps:
  1. Setup the QT - Every fish gets a trip down QT lane. How can you appreciate the amazing DT if you don't start at rock(less) bottom?
    1. The first fish to go in here is a pair of clowns. 30 days in the QA for the win.
    2. After some time, probably a yellow tang.
    3. TBD livestock after this
  2. Add the Clowns to the QT.
  3. Wait 30 days.
  4. Install the Powerheads
    1. I know I don't need crazy flow right now, but if/when I go into SPS, I can probably invest more in these.
  5. Add the Clowns to the DT.
  6. I can add in the Cleaner Crew, now. There's a reliable food source to feed them. Any earlier and I think they'd starve.
    1. Still deciding on the right mix. I've seen some "Kits" out there, but haven't looked too deeply into it. Honestly, those seem like a LOT of things to add at once. Personally, I'm not 100% sure I''m going to need a big crew, considering the larger fuge to control algae. Maybe just 5-10 crabs for uneaten food? Still more research needed!
  7. After a month or so, this is probably a good time for a checkpoint:
    1. Send off for an ICP
    2. I'll probably want to do a water change here. I should have Coraline growing across the rocks and that's going to deplete Ca/Ak. I'm not actively dosing yet, since I'm not growing anything meaningful. Maybe I should be doing some quick tests and dosing just Ca/Ak?
    3. If there's anything I need to pivot, this is the time to do it.
  8. Once all is well, time to turn on the lights.
Phase 3 Equipment:
Phase 3 Livestock
  1. 2 x Clownfish
  2. Yellow Tang
  3. TBD beyond
  4. Cleaner Crew
Phase 4 - Corals

It's been a FOWLR journey so far, but at the start of this phase, I've been able to keep the fish alive, I see Coraline start to spread, I'm kosher with my ICP process and my lights are on. No weird algae growth is happening.

Note: This phase is so far away, I need to do some research.. tentatively.....
  1. Send off for an ICP. Things might need a tweak or two here. Could be a water change. Who knows?
  2. Setup the dosing mechanism.
  3. Setup a Coral QT tank. Is this really necessary? Is a series of Dips ok instead? Needs more digging, I think...
  4. Pick some coral, dip it, QT and add it.

If you've made it this far, thanks much! This is part of me documenting the process (planning!) and part of it is...I don't know things that I don't know. So again, thanks for reading and responding!
 

Jekyl

GSP is the devil and clowns are bad pets
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Welcome! Looking forward to the build thread
 

Jekyl

GSP is the devil and clowns are bad pets
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Could save money making your own baffles for the sump and use the money for an additional AI prime. No problem running skimmer while cycling. Will help it break in. I'd wait on chaeto until fish are added. Ugly phase will happen either way. For CuC go to reefcleaners.org and start with the package for a 40 breeder with hermits.
 

Jekyl

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I would also order some pods when you get your CuC.
 

DaddyFish

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You've done a great job getting this...

CHLORAMINES North Texas Municipal Water District uses Chloramines for disinfection purposes. The benefit of using Chloramines is to reduce the levels of disinfection byproducts in the system, while still providing protection from waterborne disease. The use of Chloramines can cause problems to persons dependent on dialysis machines. A condition known as hemolytic anemia can occur if the disinfectant is not completely removed from the water that is used for the dialysate. Consequently, the pretreatment scheme used for the dialysis units must include some means, such as a charcoal filter, for removing the Chloramine from the water used. Medical facilities should also determine if additional precautions are required for other medical equipment. In addition, Chloraminated water may be toxic to fish. If you have a fish tank, please make sure that the chemicals or filters that you are using are designed for use in water that has been treated with Chloramines. You may also need to change the type of filter that you use for fish tanks.

And the answer to this, " Do I need 5?" is most definitely YES!!!

You will need at least two(2) Carbon Block filters to strip the chloramines. Notice I said "at least" two. That means one sediment (Stage-1), two carbon blocks (not GAC) (Stage-2, Stage-3), one membrane (Stage-4), DI resin (Stage-5).

Furthermore, how's your water pressure? Could you benefit from a booster pump?
What's the incoming water temp range? Could you benefit from a thermostatic mixing valve?
 
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Siberwulf

Siberwulf

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You've done a great job getting this...

CHLORAMINES North Texas Municipal Water District uses Chloramines for disinfection purposes. The benefit of using Chloramines is to reduce the levels of disinfection byproducts in the system, while still providing protection from waterborne disease. The use of Chloramines can cause problems to persons dependent on dialysis machines. A condition known as hemolytic anemia can occur if the disinfectant is not completely removed from the water that is used for the dialysate. Consequently, the pretreatment scheme used for the dialysis units must include some means, such as a charcoal filter, for removing the Chloramine from the water used. Medical facilities should also determine if additional precautions are required for other medical equipment. In addition, Chloraminated water may be toxic to fish. If you have a fish tank, please make sure that the chemicals or filters that you are using are designed for use in water that has been treated with Chloramines. You may also need to change the type of filter that you use for fish tanks.

And the answer to this, " Do I need 5?" is most definitely YES!!!

You will need at least two(2) Carbon Block filters to strip the chloramines. Notice I said "at least" two. That means one sediment (Stage-1), two carbon blocks (not GAC) (Stage-2, Stage-3), one membrane (Stage-4), DI resin (Stage-5).

Furthermore, how's your water pressure? Could you benefit from a booster pump?
What's the incoming water temp range? Could you benefit from a thermostatic mixing valve?
I think our pressure is pretty good here. Temp, I'm not sure of. If I have to do a decent WC, I'll snag a heater and warm it up first. Haven't looked into a TMV, though. Do folks usually use one?
 

DaddyFish

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I think our pressure is pretty good here. Temp, I'm not sure of. If I have to do a decent WC, I'll snag a heater and warm it up first. Haven't looked into a TMV, though. Do folks usually use one?
I do, but I'm heavily influenced by a friend who works with large industrial RO systems where yield is big money. I'm on a community well and you are on municipal water, so we both pay for our water. A TMV combined with a booster pump can make the difference between 1:3 and 1:1.4 RO yield. Over time that translates to money and extended RO membrane life.
 
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Siberwulf

Siberwulf

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I do, but I'm heavily influenced by a friend who works with large industrial RO systems where yield is big money. I'm on a community well and you are on municipal water, so we both pay for our water. A TMV combined with a booster pump can make the difference between 1:3 and 1:1.4 RO yield. Over time that translates to money and extended RO membrane life.
I'll for sure have to look into this. Also, I know someone with a PSI meter I can put on my hose bib to measure. I'm curious myself, now!
 

DaddyFish

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I'll for sure have to look into this. Also, I know someone with a PSI meter I can put on my hose bib to measure. I'm curious myself, now!
I picked up a PSI meter, Rainbird I think?, off Amazon for less than $10. It can be very educational, especially if you check it periodically across different times and different days. My water pressure drops severely on weekends when all the neighbors are home taking showers, washing clothes, watering their lawn. Common variation for me is 50-25 psi, with 30 being average.
The RO membrane performance difference between 25 psi @ 50F, and 80 psi @ 80F is HUGE!
 
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