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ParkerK

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I Did a double dose of Chemi clean to get rid of cyano and now I got this stuff. What is it and how do I get rid of it?

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Zoanthids

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Looks like Dinos to me
 
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ParkerK

ParkerK

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I've had really good success getting rid of dinos, but if you search these forums there are HUNDREDS of pages of people singing the blues of persistent dinoflagellate problems.
Lol any tips? I just tested and results were
Phosphate.03
Alkalinity 9.0
Nitrate 3.71 ppm
 

BanjoBandito

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It’s about 4 months old, used new live rock but water was drawn from my old tank along with fish and corals. 42 gal Red Sea. I have one melanarus, royal g, clown, mandarin, 2 damsels.
The reason I ask is because DINO X absolutely works, but it's got a high damage rate in my opinion. It's the NUCLEAR option. My tank was about 3 months old when I got a bad outbreak of dinos. So couple things first:

1. SUCK UP some of that sludge and get it under a microscope - a cheap pocket microscope that can see 200-300x is like 15 bucks on amazon if you're in the USA. That'll help you ID it. That's step 1.

2. When you're ready, try and siphon/blow off as much of it out as you can, if you are using a sump you can get a finer mesh sock to "catch" the dinos

3. UV light is a big help with most dinos that enter the water column (like ostreopsis) and can be handy to have around. I don't run one constantly, as I think they are "spot use" devices, but that's me

4. Most DINO plans involve a 72 hour blackout period b/c they are phytosynthetic

5. Turning down your white lights to zero and turning down your blues for awhile will help stop the spread or popping back up for a bit

6. MY SUCCESS has always been the same - decrease dino population - increase diversity - encourage diatoms and algae growth, they seem to be able to OUT COMPETE the dinos.

Here's how I've won a couple times -

72 hour blackout w/ UV running 24/7 directly in my display tank at about 3-4x turn over and 1 watt per 3-4 gallons. Follow the "DR TIMS" method through the whole process. Dosed "REEF BUGS" daily after blackout. BIG WATERCHANGE a the end with NATURAL SEA WATER. Maintain Phos of .1 and Nitrates above 10 through the whole process if possible. I still run at those levels (or there abouts....I don't get too excited)

There's tons of threads on "DINOS" on this site, everyone has different opinions on what causes it, how to treat it, but beyond that the best place to start is to ID the species then move on. I also think any combination of techniques work, but the most sure fire way is the blackout period. Dr. Tims method says to crack your lights back up after the blackout but I've always run about 50-60% of the normal blues and very little white and then slowly ramp it up over 2-4 weeks.

Good luck! I am not an expert. This is advice, not scientific understanding or teachings.
 
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ParkerK

ParkerK

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The reason I ask is because DINO X absolutely works, but it's got a high damage rate in my opinion. It's the NUCLEAR option. My tank was about 3 months old when I got a bad outbreak of dinos. So couple things first:

1. SUCK UP some of that sludge and get it under a microscope - a cheap pocket microscope that can see 200-300x is like 15 bucks on amazon if you're in the USA. That'll help you ID it. That's step 1.

2. When you're ready, try and siphon/blow off as much of it out as you can, if you are using a sump you can get a finer mesh sock to "catch" the dinos

3. UV light is a big help with most dinos that enter the water column (like ostreopsis) and can be handy to have around. I don't run one constantly, as I think they are "spot use" devices, but that's me

4. Most DINO plans involve a 72 hour blackout period b/c they are phytosynthetic

5. Turning down your white lights to zero and turning down your blues for awhile will help stop the spread or popping back up for a bit

6. MY SUCCESS has always been the same - decrease dino population - increase diversity - encourage diatoms and algae growth, they seem to be able to OUT COMPETE the dinos.

Here's how I've won a couple times -

72 hour blackout w/ UV running 24/7 directly in my display tank at about 3-4x turn over and 1 watt per 3-4 gallons. Follow the "DR TIMS" method through the whole process. Dosed "REEF BUGS" daily after blackout. BIG WATERCHANGE a the end with NATURAL SEA WATER. Maintain Phos of .1 and Nitrates above 10 through the whole process if possible. I still run at those levels (or there abouts....I don't get too excited)

There's tons of threads on "DINOS" on this site, everyone has different opinions on what causes it, how to treat it, but beyond that the best place to start is to ID the species then move on. I also think any combination of techniques work, but the most sure fire way is the blackout period. Dr. Tims method says to crack your lights back up after the blackout but I've always run about 50-60% of the normal blues and very little white and then slowly ramp it up over 2-4 weeks.

Good luck! I am not an expert. This is advice, not scientific understanding or teachings.
So I am turning light back on tonight. Going to go full blast with them like I was during normal time. UV was turned off because of the Dr Tims bacteria I added. I had my guy from LFS properly ID. I wrapped the tank with the black paper.
 

BanjoBandito

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So I am turning light back on tonight. Going to go full blast with them like I was during normal time. UV was turned off because of the Dr Tims bacteria I added. I had my guy from LFS properly ID. I wrapped the tank with the black paper.
Good luck! Don't get discouraged if you still see some dinos after you unwrap, just stick with the Dr. Tims dosing. Dinos can be super frustrating.
 
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ParkerK

ParkerK

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Good luck! Don't get discouraged if you still see some dinos after you unwrap, just stick with the Dr. Tims dosing. Dinos can be super frustrating.
Ok thanks! They came back… should I do a full treatment of dr tims with blackout or only dr tims
 
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