New fish die within hours

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Clemsy

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1. Are you using tap water.
2. Run some carbon
3. Stop dosing ammonia, wait a few days for a fish, then don't dose anymore ammonia.
4. Another reason is a chemical may have gotten into your water, which is why I say run carbon. It should pull it out.
5. Buy Instant Ocean BioSpira for an instant cycle. You can add fish immediately after adding this product. If you want to restart.
Thanks, will try that. Also, the water is from a rodi system.
 

Tamberav

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If I get inverts what should I feed them?

hermits will eat anything.. whatever fish food you have.

snails will eat nori or if you have film algae then they will eat that.
 
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Clemsy

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Will do as soon as I get home. Maybe 5 minutes
IMG-20210811-WA0000.jpg
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Clemsy

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Maybe I am dumb. But, is the heater area actually that low? Or did you drain it?
It's kinda low but it has a line on the side that says the min it can be. The water higher (see pic)
20210811_162321.jpg
 

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It's kinda low but it has a line on the side that says the min it can be. The water higher (see pic)
20210811_162321.jpg
Is that line on the outside of the tank? I'm assuming that's the minimum for the water level for the return pump. The heater should be mostly submerged.

Pull the heater and look for cracks. If it was out of the water it could have been running hot non-stop for 4 weeks.
 

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I am 99.9% sure this is not an oxygen issue
If it was oxygen, fish will jump and breath at the surface trying to get oxygen intake, I do not believe this is oxygen related either.
I understand that ammonia tested 0, I have never seen a disease that kills a fish in a couple of hours without visible symptoms prior to purchase. These are store bought fish.

2 hours of acclimation, what is the lfs waters ph and salinity?
Acclimation could be the killer here.
 

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Is that line on the outside of the tank? I'm assuming that's the minimum for the water level for the return pump. The heater should be mostly submerged.
I don't know if the heater being exposed would cause issues, unless the glass broke from not being fully covered. That would be a big killer

If the heater has been running and water line is below the heaters recommended water level. I would investigate for moisture in side the heater glass. Do unplug it first.
 

mjh712

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I don't know if the heater being exposed would cause issues, unless the glass broke from not being fully covered. That would be a big killer

If the heater has been running and water line is below the heaters recommended water level. I would investigate for moisture in side the heater glass. Do unplug it first.
Yeah that (glass broken) was my first concern, but Eheim's website says it has an "automatic dry run shut-off", so if it wasn't running, the tank could just be cold. Though I'd assume that would kill the clowns that quickly. Most people in the NE have their AC set somewhere in the 70s.
 

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Yeah that (glass broken) was my first concern, but Eheim's website says it has an "automatic dry run shut-off", so if it wasn't running, the tank could just be cold. Though I'd assume that would kill the clowns that quickly. Most people in the NE have their AC set somewhere in the 70s.
Even though it says that, they don't actually shut off dry. Mine wont. One can never truly know.
They said their temps of the tank are 78-80. Unless the fish were acclimated outside of the tank and the water was much hotter or colder than the aquarium. Once fish enter water, a healthy fish should still manage to survive a temp swing.
 

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It's kinda low but it has a line on the side that says the min it can be. The water higher (see pic)
I'd unplug the heater and inspect for damage. Cracks could mean you have an electrical current in your tank which can kill fish pretty quickly. I've had heater glass crack after being exposed to air for like a minute. You can also test for stray voltage in the tank if you have a voltmeter (there are instructions on how to do this on Youtube).

Also, what are you using for filter media? I'm not familiar with that tank, but you should probably be able to ditch the sponge and use other bio media, rock rubble, etc. The sponge can really limit water flow through chambers (which is why your water level in the heater/pump chamber is so low I'm guessing).
 

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On the biocube, you can disregard those lines and fill up the return chamber so your heater is submerged. Or put the heater in the middle chamber.

Then mark the side for where you have it full to so you can top it off. Had a biocube many years ago, Great AIO tank for a beginner.
 

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Nvm mine is like that too also have a eheim heater here. That is how you calibrate them though. I would check it against a thermometer if you have one.
 
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Clemsy

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I'd unplug the heater and inspect for damage. Cracks could mean you have an electrical current in your tank which can kill fish pretty quickly. I've had heater glass crack after being exposed to air for like a minute. You can also test for stray voltage in the tank if you have a voltmeter (there are instructions on how to do this on Youtube).

Also, what are you using for filter media? I'm not familiar with that tank, but you should probably be able to ditch the sponge and use other bio media, rock rubble, etc. The sponge can really limit water flow through chambers (which is why your water level in the heater/pump chamber is so low I'm guessing).
Heater seems fine. No cracks. I have seachem matrix biomedia and next to it (next chamber) a seachem purigen organic filtration
 
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Clemsy

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Nvm mine is like that too also have a eheim heater here. That is how you calibrate them though. I would check it against a thermometer if you have one.
Two thermometers and they both have same reading which is 80 degrees
 

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