VanDalsenReef
Valuable Member
Amazing colors
New Orphek Atlantik iCon LED Light
- Thread starter Dana Riddle
- Start date
- Tagged users None
VanDalsenReef
Valuable Member
I can make the tank look 8 or 10k up to uncomfortably blue
biecacka
Valuable Member
Brad, tank looks great as always!!! love that nice clam there! i just moved and put my tank back up with 2 orpheks over it, im debating on upgrading to IcON lights. I will be messaging you soon for some frags as well.Here is a super quick shot of the display, I have been using Orphek V4's for about 3 years now. Changed them all out with the Icon upgrade 3 months ago. Really not bad at all, did all 5 in an afternoon with a little bit of help.
corey
Forty-Two
Well-Known Member
I just put an Atlantik Icon over my 70G neptunian cube. I had a kessil A500x previously.
I don’t want to write a whole review at this stage as it’s too early - but I’m more than pleasantly surprised.
I had a lot of issues with the Kessil - I couldn’t seem to get the settings right - ever. With the Par meter I could see the huge contrast in par in one spot - often times a variance of 30 or more par (ie: it would move from 70 par to over 100 par in the space of a few seconds and then back down to 60-70). I suspect - but can’t prove that this became an issue for the corals - either the peaks were too high, and damaged the corals, or the lows were too low and caused issues with the lack of light. Also the spectral controller was crap. It often disconnected and I couldn’t get it to reconnect, and then either the program or schedule would change causing issues. Anyways I was pretty frustrated a especially for the cost.
The Orphek has been a breath of fresh air already. The controller is great and easy to use, the features are fantastic (ie: cloud mode). I love the lunar mode. The par is much more steady. The light hitting the water is ‘clean’ ( not sure how else to describe it). All I need now is to see the results in the corals.
On a side note - what does the All slider do? Anything other than bring all of the other channels up to the same level? I’m seen Orphek videos it seems that the All slider is higher/lower than the other channels so I’m wondering if it has another function.
I don’t want to write a whole review at this stage as it’s too early - but I’m more than pleasantly surprised.
I had a lot of issues with the Kessil - I couldn’t seem to get the settings right - ever. With the Par meter I could see the huge contrast in par in one spot - often times a variance of 30 or more par (ie: it would move from 70 par to over 100 par in the space of a few seconds and then back down to 60-70). I suspect - but can’t prove that this became an issue for the corals - either the peaks were too high, and damaged the corals, or the lows were too low and caused issues with the lack of light. Also the spectral controller was crap. It often disconnected and I couldn’t get it to reconnect, and then either the program or schedule would change causing issues. Anyways I was pretty frustrated a especially for the cost.
The Orphek has been a breath of fresh air already. The controller is great and easy to use, the features are fantastic (ie: cloud mode). I love the lunar mode. The par is much more steady. The light hitting the water is ‘clean’ ( not sure how else to describe it). All I need now is to see the results in the corals.
On a side note - what does the All slider do? Anything other than bring all of the other channels up to the same level? I’m seen Orphek videos it seems that the All slider is higher/lower than the other channels so I’m wondering if it has another function.
Last edited:
Orpheks came in last night, these things give big par. I set them to 65% straight Helius for now and is still putting down 340 par mid tank.
Last edited:
All slider just lets you adjust all channels at the same time
340 mid tank on your new tank? Was that with water running for surface agitation?
Yes, tested with a apogee 650
The shimmer these give is beautiful, I really like them. Helius straight settings is more 14k to me, my fish actually have their color back
I have been looking at these since Dana’s review, but am always last to jump lol. My kessils are nearing 6 years for some, looking to replace them and possibly the T5 hybrid on the 180 to test. Liking them more and more as I keep seeing reviews on them. Be nice to not to have 6x 360s and a hybrid fixture over the 180 lol. 3 seems like it woulda irk perfect and then once I get the 538 setup, just order a few more and call it a day lol.
Are you only running them? No light bars or t5s to supplement?
Just the 5 mounted 16”over the water, I also like how there is next to no light spill and do not blind the crap out of us. These lights really do need to be mounted high
That is good. I prefer high, as sucks having to raise lights to pull out colonies to frag lol.
For reference, I wear 3x to 4x gloves lol. Had to take whole fixture down to get this out 16” mounting height would have prevented that lol.
These things are looking better and better lol. Curious though, what war par about 6-7” below water line where you had them set at? I am currently at 550 or so and would like to be around that with any new lights. And hopefully not having to max them out to do it.
mandarin417
Active Member
Being a metal halide and super actinic LED fan, this is what’s attracting me to these lights. I want to fish to have colors that disappear With the other LED solutions.
Forty-Two
Well-Known Member
What is the length of the peak photo period you guys are running?
How hot do your lights get up to?
Im running a 12 hour photo period with a peak for 5 hours. Im also running clouds, so I do see some dimming from time to time when looking at the dashboard.
Right now Im seeing 27 degrees.
How hot do your lights get up to?
Im running a 12 hour photo period with a peak for 5 hours. Im also running clouds, so I do see some dimming from time to time when looking at the dashboard.
Right now Im seeing 27 degrees.
12 hour 36c, that’s only in the time they ran yesterday for the first time
carlosec83
Community Member
With 15" above water line running them at 65% peak I get 750 below water line. 500 at around 5"... middle high section 350-450 6-12"That is good. I prefer high, as sucks having to raise lights to pull out colonies to frag lol.
For reference, I wear 3x to 4x gloves lol. Had to take whole fixture down to get this out 16” mounting height would have prevented that lol.
These things are looking better and better lol. Curious though, what war par about 6-7” below water line where you had them set at? I am currently at 550 or so and would like to be around that with any new lights. And hopefully not having to max them out to do it.
Middle low section 250-350 12-18" and sand bed I'm at 200
All these are averages, some a bit higher and some a bit lower, but overall pretty consistent spread and strength. I never got to posting my PAR readings over my tank picture, but this light is VERY STRONG. I highly recommend renting a PAR METER. I used an apogee from a local store.
I run 3 Icons over a 200 peninsula. I was thinking of getting a 4th but with the spread I get and the PAR readings I found out that I don't need a 4th.
Thank you sooo much for that and I do have an apogee 510, so that will help a ton with getting them setup if I go that route.
I concur with these numbers.
That is good. I prefer high, as sucks having to raise lights to pull out colonies to frag lol.
For reference, I wear 3x to 4x gloves lol. Had to take whole fixture down to get this out 16” mounting height would have prevented that lol.
These things are looking better and better lol. Curious though, what war par about 6-7” below water line where you had them set at? I am currently at 550 or so and would like to be around that with any new lights. And hopefully not having to max them out to do it.
I have them temporarily hung until I get a couple of pieces of aluminum rail in so I just did a baseline and matched them as close as possible. Once I get them in a permanent I'll do a full PAR mapping.
I'm concerned I'll get some burnt tips, even with putting them in the same PAR this is a total spectrum change and the Apex added another 11 ML of Alk yesterday to make up for the additional consumption.
That would be my concern also. But hopefully not too much to worry about as my t5s are c+ and ab special. Kessils are around 60% color, so more white on them. Coming from halide is hard lol.
SmCaudata
Community Member
I'm looking at a new build with either an IM200ext 72 long x 30 front to back x 21 deep. Or a custom that is the same size but 24 deep. For a mixed reef type setup with SPS in high PAR areas and lower light corals in the gutters/sand bed, would two icons be enough? Maybe 2 icons plus some OR3 strips? Would I be better off with 3 compacts? It seems so many lights are meant for 24" front to back, the extra 6" throws things off.
Similar threads
- Price: 650.00 each
- Shipping Available
New Posts
-
-
New to RODI filter can someone assist pls- Latest: CornishCrustyCorals
-
-
-
