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Powerheads along the back maybe? Maybe some mp40's
New Swiss 1900 liter (500G) Build
- Monster Build
- Thread starter Laith
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Powerheads along the back maybe? Maybe some mp40's
OP
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Laith
Well-Known Member
I thought of that as well, but it won't be easy as I only have 5cm of space between the back glass and the wall.
I guess on the back wall on the end opposite the overflow I could put two or three powerheads pointing towards the front glass aimed at an angle towards the overflow end...
I guess on the back wall on the end opposite the overflow I could put two or three powerheads pointing towards the front glass aimed at an angle towards the overflow end...
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Laith
Well-Known Member
I've decided and ordered the following: 4x Tunze 6255s and 2x Tunze 6155s as well as the two Gyre 350s. As the 6155s require very expensive extra magnets to attach to 24mm glass, they will go into Tunze rocks.
The Hydro Wizards were tough to give up on but the 63 is physically quite large and the Tunzes are easily controllable through my Profilux. Not to mention the price of the Hydro Wizards
.
The Hydro Wizards were tough to give up on but the 63 is physically quite large and the Tunzes are easily controllable through my Profilux. Not to mention the price of the Hydro Wizards
.
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Laith
Well-Known Member
And the Super Skimate Locker with a Profilux connection... apparently the lid is actually only for a US 5 gallon bucket because a quick trial found that I could not fit it on standard salt buckets nor on the standard Tunze 27liter Top up bucket :mad:. I need to give it another try but it would be ridiculous if I have to actually order a bucket from the US for this to fit on!
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Laith
Well-Known Member
Just tested out adding a 2nd RO membrane in series and adding a booster pump to my current 75GPD RO/DI system...
Went from 180 liters a day (47GPD) to 495 liters per day (130GPD)! And the TDS coming out of the 2nd membrane was only 3 (our tap water is 171) ;Smuggrin.
Also found out that the 30 meters of 6mm tubing I ordered is too narrow to fit standard 1/4" RO connections :mad:;Rage ! Even though the description for the tubing stated suitable for RO systems... Need to find some true 1/4" tubing or at least 8mm tubing.
Went from 180 liters a day (47GPD) to 495 liters per day (130GPD)!
And the TDS coming out of the 2nd membrane was only 3 (our tap water is 171) ;Smuggrin.Also found out that the 30 meters of 6mm tubing I ordered is too narrow to fit standard 1/4" RO connections :mad:;Rage ! Even though the description for the tubing stated suitable for RO systems... Need to find some true 1/4" tubing or at least 8mm tubing.
OP
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Laith
Well-Known Member
For the substrate, I'm hesitating between:
- Carbisea Special Grade Reef Sand (1-2mm), and
- ATI Fiji White Sand (1-2mm)
Not looking for live sand. Both the above are supposed to be denser than other sands so better for high current reef tanks...
Any experiences with either of these?
- Carbisea Special Grade Reef Sand (1-2mm), and
- ATI Fiji White Sand (1-2mm)
Not looking for live sand. Both the above are supposed to be denser than other sands so better for high current reef tanks...
Any experiences with either of these?
ThatFishGuy
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I havnt used these in particular but ive heard nothing but good things about the CaribSea special sand.
Ashir Parekh
Community Member
Fantastic, Since your build is slightly ahead of mine, i will copy and paste all your plans. No man this is superb and cannot wait to see the final result.
all your plans. No man this is superb and cannot wait to see the final result.
OP
OP
Laith
Well-Known Member
Next step, start moving furniture.
Previously on this wall:
And now:
The builder is coming on the 20th or 21st to build the aluminum structure of the stand so that we have something to build the tank on on the 24th.
Still to do before the builder comes:
- move the phone line that's on the wall to the left of the current tank.
- remove the tile "skirting" from the wall.
- find a solution for this:
These are leftover from the removal of a radiator on that wall years ago. The pipes are flexible so the worst case scenario will be to dig a hole into the concrete floor and bend them down so they are below floor level. Plumber to be called Monday!
And last, but definately not least, move the current tank to a position in the living room where it will sit for at least a month until the livestock can be moved to the new tank. These will come in handy:
Previously on this wall:
And now:
The builder is coming on the 20th or 21st to build the aluminum structure of the stand so that we have something to build the tank on on the 24th.
Still to do before the builder comes:
- move the phone line that's on the wall to the left of the current tank.
- remove the tile "skirting" from the wall.
- find a solution for this:
These are leftover from the removal of a radiator on that wall years ago. The pipes are flexible so the worst case scenario will be to dig a hole into the concrete floor and bend them down so they are below floor level. Plumber to be called Monday!
And last, but definately not least, move the current tank to a position in the living room where it will sit for at least a month until the livestock can be moved to the new tank. These will come in handy:
OP
OP
Laith
Well-Known Member
Received this the other day...
Most of the reviews of these Tunze Algae magnet cleaners are positive. My only concern is the smallish area is will cover with every swipe as the heads are not that big (those are cm by the way):
We shall see...
Most of the reviews of these Tunze Algae magnet cleaners are positive. My only concern is the smallish area is will cover with every swipe as the heads are not that big (those are cm by the way):
We shall see...
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