New Swiss 1900 liter (500G) Build
- Monster Build
- Thread starter Laith
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Ashir Parekh
Community Member
I must say this is Epic, Love the photo's, Keep them coming.
ThatFishGuy
Active Member
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2018
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- 202
This is coming together real nicely. Cant wait until it gets wet!
OP
OP
Laith
Well-Known Member
The tank looks very intrusive at the moment since it's a big glass box sticking out of the wall. When the cabinetry is in place all above, below and on the right side it will look much better as the whole thing will BE the wall.
That's the theory anyway!
That's the theory anyway!
OP
OP
Laith
Well-Known Member
Great updates and great work by them.
No, no, no. It was my superb people supervision skills that made it work!
Seriously, so far they have done an excellent and professional job. No complaints!
But the thing still needs to hold water!
OP
OP
Laith
Well-Known Member
Remaining glass to be added:
- 8cm of 12mm eurobracing around the top, overlapping in the corners. The two back corners will have holes drilled for the return pipes to go into the tank.
- Two strips of 15mm glass about 3cm high siliconed to the top of each end of the tank. This is so that I can mount the two GHL propeller breeze units as their clamps only go to a maximum of 19mm.
- Either one 30cm 12mm center crossbar across the top, or two 15cm, one each meter. Structurally it was either crossbars or considerably widen the eurobracing around the top. Given the depth of the tank, eurobracing wider than 8cm (he was talking about 12 or 15cm) would make working on the tank even more challenging than it already will be. I'm still not decided on one 30cm crossbar or two 15cm ones... any opinions on this?
- 8cm of 12mm around the bottom glass, basically mimicking the eurobrace on the top to give a double layer around the bottom outside 8cm.
- Build the overflow box. I'm still working on how deep to make this. I'm going to put together the bean animal piping with the bulkheads and see physically how much space is needed. The main siphon and the open trickle pipe will both be inverted Us in configuration (as far as I have read this is the best way to have the two). The two Us will take up quite a bit of space of the length of the overflow. As I will also have a spare hole drilled in case I ever need a double siphon, I may not have enough room to bring one of the returns up through the bottom of the overflow box... but this won't matter, I can bring that return up behind the tank as I will for the return on the other end (that's the reason I wanted at least 5cm between the back of the tank and the wall).
So how deep should the overflow box be? The builder is telling me the deeper the better but I don't see any advantage of having it deeper than necessary. So what is "necessary"?. I was thinking 30cm. I want the water level in the box to only be 2-4 cm lower than the level in the DT to eliminate waterfall noise...
Help?
- 8cm of 12mm eurobracing around the top, overlapping in the corners. The two back corners will have holes drilled for the return pipes to go into the tank.
- Two strips of 15mm glass about 3cm high siliconed to the top of each end of the tank. This is so that I can mount the two GHL propeller breeze units as their clamps only go to a maximum of 19mm.
- Either one 30cm 12mm center crossbar across the top, or two 15cm, one each meter. Structurally it was either crossbars or considerably widen the eurobracing around the top. Given the depth of the tank, eurobracing wider than 8cm (he was talking about 12 or 15cm) would make working on the tank even more challenging than it already will be. I'm still not decided on one 30cm crossbar or two 15cm ones... any opinions on this?
- 8cm of 12mm around the bottom glass, basically mimicking the eurobrace on the top to give a double layer around the bottom outside 8cm.
- Build the overflow box. I'm still working on how deep to make this. I'm going to put together the bean animal piping with the bulkheads and see physically how much space is needed. The main siphon and the open trickle pipe will both be inverted Us in configuration (as far as I have read this is the best way to have the two). The two Us will take up quite a bit of space of the length of the overflow. As I will also have a spare hole drilled in case I ever need a double siphon, I may not have enough room to bring one of the returns up through the bottom of the overflow box... but this won't matter, I can bring that return up behind the tank as I will for the return on the other end (that's the reason I wanted at least 5cm between the back of the tank and the wall).
So how deep should the overflow box be? The builder is telling me the deeper the better but I don't see any advantage of having it deeper than necessary. So what is "necessary"?. I was thinking 30cm. I want the water level in the box to only be 2-4 cm lower than the level in the DT to eliminate waterfall noise...
Help?
Ashir Parekh
Community Member
Well, i can only base this on my tank that is being built. Since very similar to yours, my builder is doing 500 to 550 wide, 100 deep and 150 to 200 high. I also do not see the need for the overflow to be so high. 30cm means a lot of extra pipe for nothing. I think you 20 to 24cm should be fine, what size pipes though. Mine is 40mm and also bean animal with inverted U Shape for 1st and 2nd main pipes
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OP
Laith
Well-Known Member
So if I understand correctly, your overflow will be 15 to 20cm deep (top to bottom)?
I'm also using 40mm piping...
Ashir Parekh
Community Member
That is correct, 15cm to 20cm deep. Top to bottom
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