New Swiss 1900 liter (500G) Build
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Laith
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And I think I found a way of hanging the Mitras in a way that I can slide them back and forth:
Ceiling rails and little dolleys on wheels from Ikea
.
So two rails 17cm apart (that's the distance between the two attachment points on the Mitras) on the ceiling. One dolley in each rail attached to a 20cm length of aluminum that will hang perpendicular to the rails. And then the two attachments from the Mitras hanging kits will attach to the aluminum bar. One aluminum bar per light.
The rails on the ceiling will run the entire 3m length of the tank...
Just need to test that the system can hold five Mitras. Shouldn't be a problem as the weight will be spread across different attachment points.
At least I hope it works as I planned it in my head! ;Wideyed ;Happy
Ceiling rails and little dolleys on wheels from Ikea
.So two rails 17cm apart (that's the distance between the two attachment points on the Mitras) on the ceiling. One dolley in each rail attached to a 20cm length of aluminum that will hang perpendicular to the rails. And then the two attachments from the Mitras hanging kits will attach to the aluminum bar. One aluminum bar per light.
The rails on the ceiling will run the entire 3m length of the tank...
Just need to test that the system can hold five Mitras. Shouldn't be a problem as the weight will be spread across different attachment points.
At least I hope it works as I planned it in my head! ;Wideyed ;Happy
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Laith
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In the end I don't think the Ikea rails will work... the system only allows for attaching to the ceiling every 1m20 which won't be strong enough.
But I think I found another solution: the ceiling mounts of the Mitras hanging kits can slide into the groove of the aluminum bars that were used to build the stand. If they fit then I can just get some more of those bars and attach them to the ceiling and then slide the Mitras mounts directly into them.
But I think I found another solution: the ceiling mounts of the Mitras hanging kits can slide into the groove of the aluminum bars that were used to build the stand. If they fit then I can just get some more of those bars and attach them to the ceiling and then slide the Mitras mounts directly into them.
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Laith
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Meanwhile... can't do much until the sump, ATO container and SW container are built and delivered. That should happen early next week (everything seems to be slowing down due to summer holidays ).
So, I ran the two 1/4" tubes from under the stand to under the sink.
Remove baseboards...
pulling tubing through...
And voila under the sink!
One (white) will deliver RO/DI water to both the saltwater reservoir and the ATO reservoir. The blue one will be part of the AWC, bringing old tank water to the drain.
).So, I ran the two 1/4" tubes from under the stand to under the sink.
Remove baseboards...
pulling tubing through...
And voila under the sink!
One (white) will deliver RO/DI water to both the saltwater reservoir and the ATO reservoir. The blue one will be part of the AWC, bringing old tank water to the drain.
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Laith
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For extraction of humid air I was originally planning on having two or three vents spaced out above the tank with fans extracting air straight outside (the tank is against an outer wall). But the ventilation expert said that there was no need for two or three. One would do fine and it didn't necessarily need to be above the DT. His description was that air was "lazy" and would follow the path of least resistance. So if a vent or two were placed in the cabinet doors at the left end of the tank (one above the tank and one below) and the vent unit was on the right end of the setup the air circulation would be just fine.
So, only one hole needed:
A short tube will be placed in the hole with a one way clapper (I think that's what it's called) and a grill on the outside of the wall. To the tube will be connected this:
It's variable speed and supposed to be whisper quiet ;Happy
. We shall find out!
and would follow the path of least resistance. So if a vent or two were placed in the cabinet doors at the left end of the tank (one above the tank and one below) and the vent unit was on the right end of the setup the air circulation would be just fine.So, only one hole needed:
A short tube will be placed in the hole with a one way clapper (I think that's what it's called) and a grill on the outside of the wall. To the tube will be connected this:
It's variable speed and supposed to be whisper quiet ;Happy
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Laith
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Opened up as I need to connect a power supply cord as well as some wiring for control:
Two wires will go from the vent unit to a GHL breakout box; a 0-10v control wire and a ground. The GHL breakout box will be connected to my Profilux. The Profilux will have a humidity/temp sensor and will manage the fan speed depending on humidity and temp above the tank.
Now to figure out how to program the Profilux to do this! ;Wideyed
Two wires will go from the vent unit to a GHL breakout box; a 0-10v control wire and a ground. The GHL breakout box will be connected to my Profilux. The Profilux will have a humidity/temp sensor and will manage the fan speed depending on humidity and temp above the tank.
Now to figure out how to program the Profilux to do this! ;Wideyed
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Laith
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Tomorrow the builder is coming back to work on:
- Internal bottom and top bracing in the tank.
- Attach overflow box.
- Install the sump and the two water tanks.
Carpenter is also coming tomorrow to plan the cabinetry around the tank.
Ventilator guy is coming on Wednesday to install the ventilator.
Once the overflow box and sump and water tanks are in place I can finally start working on the piping and equipment installation! ;Happy
- Internal bottom and top bracing in the tank.
- Attach overflow box.
- Install the sump and the two water tanks.
Carpenter is also coming tomorrow to plan the cabinetry around the tank.
Ventilator guy is coming on Wednesday to install the ventilator.
Once the overflow box and sump and water tanks are in place I can finally start working on the piping and equipment installation! ;Happy
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Laith
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Well, less done than planned. Builder had a sudden emergency to take care of so could only come the second part of the afternoon.
Carpenter came and now has all the info he needs to start work on the cabinetry.
The ventilator guy came:
And the view from outside:
Carpenter came and now has all the info he needs to start work on the cabinetry.
The ventilator guy came:
And the view from outside:
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Laith
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And he built most of the sump. He suggested that we leave the front off for the moment to let me put equipment and decide where to put baffles/separations.
Amazing how quick you start running out of space!
The sump (and the top up and SW reservoir) are built out of 19mm PVC. The front PVC panes will have large transparent panes to allow visibility of the inside.
He will be coming back Tuesday all day. We'll see how far he gets then!
Amazing how quick you start running out of space!
The sump (and the top up and SW reservoir) are built out of 19mm PVC. The front PVC panes will have large transparent panes to allow visibility of the inside.
He will be coming back Tuesday all day. We'll see how far he gets then!
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Laith
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Update time... been busy with family and life but now things are moving again
Planning the partitions in the sump:
The bucket is simulating a macro algae reactor that I've decided to try instead of a refugium. I've decided on the future Tunze Macro Algae Reactor 3182 which should be available at the end of this year.
I looked at the Pax Bellum, Pacific Sun etc but the drawback with those is that the large models for a tank of my size are very tall. And as the LED lights in them are in the center of the unit, to harvest algae you have to slide the center part out completely, so you need double the height to do that. I couldn't do that without taking the unit completely out of the sump.
The Tunze model doesn't have that: the LED strip is on the outside of the unit so you just remove the top (which is magnetically closed!
) and reach in and remove the algae. The flow into the unit is such that it constantly turns the ball of chaeto... in theory at least.
And it comes with pump included.
Planning the partitions in the sump:
The bucket is simulating a macro algae reactor that I've decided to try instead of a refugium. I've decided on the future Tunze Macro Algae Reactor 3182 which should be available at the end of this year.
I looked at the Pax Bellum, Pacific Sun etc but the drawback with those is that the large models for a tank of my size are very tall. And as the LED lights in them are in the center of the unit, to harvest algae you have to slide the center part out completely, so you need double the height to do that. I couldn't do that without taking the unit completely out of the sump.
The Tunze model doesn't have that: the LED strip is on the outside of the unit so you just remove the top (which is magnetically closed!
And it comes with pump included.
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Laith
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Partitions installed and front panel installed. I decided that on the sump I don't need the transparent front panels as, at 40cm of height, I can easily see into the sump from the top with no problem.
The partitions/baffles aren't that much different in height. The first one will keep the water level at 20-21cm for the rollermat and skimmer. The second one is just about 2cm lower...
The partitions/baffles aren't that much different in height. The first one will keep the water level at 20-21cm for the rollermat and skimmer. The second one is just about 2cm lower...
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Laith
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In case you didn't notice, the entire sump has been moved to the right... That's because of this:
In it's position under the tank, the intakes of the rollermat from the overflow are too high to put unions in place. With a union and a 90 degree elbow it is very tight (and I'd rather not use 90 degree bends if possible):
Oops! ;Dummy
In it's position under the tank, the intakes of the rollermat from the overflow are too high to put unions in place. With a union and a 90 degree elbow it is very tight (and I'd rather not use 90 degree bends if possible):
Oops! ;Dummy
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Laith
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So the sump has moved to the right so that this is not an issue. Actually works out better:
- better access to the piping going into the rollermat
- A straighter drop from the overflow (but won't be a direct drop as the holes in the overflow have been drilled equidistant from edges etc)
- Easier cable management because I will need less length of cable to get the equipment in the sump connected to the plugs which will all be on the right side of the tank.
- better access to the piping going into the rollermat
- A straighter drop from the overflow (but won't be a direct drop as the holes in the overflow have been drilled equidistant from edges etc)
- Easier cable management because I will need less length of cable to get the equipment in the sump connected to the plugs which will all be on the right side of the tank.
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Laith
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Quite clever what he's done here. The overflow box sides are a bit wider than the box itself and it is the edges of these sides that are siliconed to the tank. So the overflow box is actually a centimeter away from the tank. He's painted the top part of the side of the tank black... this means that the overflow box is not visible through from the inside of the tank. Not sure I'm describing this well, maybe a couple of pictures will help...
Here you can see the space between the overflow box and the side of the tank:
and a thick silicone layer joining the lip of the tank to the overflow box:
A view from above:
And here you can see the black painted part under the overflow box (stops above 5cm below the box):
Here you can see the space between the overflow box and the side of the tank:
and a thick silicone layer joining the lip of the tank to the overflow box:
A view from above:
And here you can see the black painted part under the overflow box (stops above 5cm below the box):
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Laith
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I've left the bottom 60% of the side (under the overflow box) clear... Not sure I'll keep it that way but I thought I may want to peer into the tank from that end from time to time. I'll find a way of attached a black removable panel on that part.
That's also where two of my Tunze 6255s will be attached...
That's also where two of my Tunze 6255s will be attached...
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