New Swiss 1900 liter (500G) Build

[Laith]

For my AWC system, was trying to figure out how to install the 1/4" tubing in the saltwater tank in a way that made sure that the intake was always at the bottom of the tank (same for the tubing in the sump).

At first I thought that I could just glue the tube itself down a corner of the tank or side of the sump so that the end of it was a cm or two off the bottom. But what if I had to change the tubing down the road? ;Dummy

Eurika ;Joyful:

I'm going to glue rigid pvc tubing just slightly larger than the 1/4" tubing onto the side of the tank and sump and just feed the 1/4" tubing down it to the bottom.

I'm sure this method has been used multiple times, but I was proud of myself for coming up with it all on my own ;Happy.

 

[Laith]

Another issue: where to put the switch to turn on the stand lighting? Remember I will have four one meter doors across the stand and space to the right of it. I didn't want to have to open a door (actually the "doors" will be panels that magnetically attach) just to turn on the stand lighting and then replace the panel to work behind another panel.

The solution:

A remote control device to turn the stand lighting plugs (two plugs for four lights) on and off with.

Always good to find ways to make maintenance as smooth and easy as possible, even small things!

 

[Laith]

Then I decided to test my solenoids and emergency floats that will connect my RO/DI system to the fresh saltwater and topup tank:

white tube on the left will be connected to the RO/DI system.

Connected it up to the RO/DI system and everything worked like a treat!

I've had solenoids in the past (for CO2 in freshwater planted tanks) and they always made a pretty loud "CLACK" sound every time they turned on... maybe that was because they were for gas instead of liquid.

These Tunze solenoids are pretty much silent: just a very tiny almost inaudible "click" when powered on. Definitely won't hear them in my system .

 

[Laith]

Drum roll please... my first cable installed! How's this for cable management? ;Joyful

That's the cable connecting the two lights under the stand (they are daisy chained). Just look at that cable tidiness! LOOK! ;Happy ;Joyful

 

[Laith]

So what happens when the PVC tubing you order is cut to 80cm lengths?

Well, for longer lengths you need to do this:

BUT...

Of course I need longer than 80cm lengths to get my returns from the return pumps to the DT. So I wanted to see where to place the left return, which needs to go up behind the tank.

I planned the space behind the tank to be 50mm to accommodate any piping that needed to go up behind the tank. The piping I'm using is 40mm.

Obviously I didn't count on the coupling which makes the pipe width too wide to fit behind the tank ;Dummy.

Never mind, several lengths of 1m50 piping has been ordered! ;Happy

 

[Laith]

Now for the serious stuff.

I am SO GLAD to have this tool!

I just cannot imagine cutting all the piping I need with a handsaw... And it cuts so cleanly I don't even need to sandpaper the cut ends, they are smooth as new .

It does make a mess though, even with the vaccum cleaner hose attached to the cutter...

Oh well.

 

[Laith]

So.

Full siphon drain.

 

[Laith]

Drains in all their glory. From left to right: emergency drain, open pipe (trickle) drain and full siphon drain. I still need to find a way to attach supports somehow. I have the 40mm pipe clips but here I don't have anywhere to attach them.

I'm going to replace the trickle drain diagonal pipe: it is just slightly too short and pulls the drain and ball valve slightly to the right.

 

[Laith]

I just noticed that you can see my old tank in its temporary position reflected at the end of the new tank in the picture above ;Happy.

 

[Laith]

Preliminary standpipe positions... I'm assuming the trickle drain determines the height of the water in the overflow box. This length allows for about a 2-3cm drop from the DT to the water surface in the overflow box. And I think the height of the full siphon drain is low enough that no vortex will be created.

None of the drain piping above is glued yet. And I'm not planning on gluing the standpipes in the overflow at all.

 

[Laith]

Someone told me that the metal bands that come with the RE silicone tubes that dampen any vibration from the Red Dragons are not very saltwater resistant. So:

 

[Laith]

Found these to use on the standpipes... I had never seen them before but thought they might work well. The top is a lid that comes off. We'll see how they do...

 

[Laith]

Today I worked on one of the returns. First off I need to find a way to attach the plastic pipe clamps to the aluminum in the stand. I decided to try two sided tape. Then I saw that the base of the clips are not flat:

So this came out :

And resulted in...

 

[Laith]

However, after using the two sided tape, attaching them where I wanted them and letting them sit for the glue to set, they came off when I clicked a pipe into them.

Two solutions. The aluminum has a slot running the length and I'm sure there are all sorts of possibilities to use them to attach things like these clips with special screws etc. But I don't have any of those bits at the moment.

The second solution is perhaps some type of weld like adhesive (superglue won't work well on smooth metal)... but wondering what that would do to the plastic.

So the high tech fallback solution ;Joyful... Drilled two holes in the side of the base of each clip and:

Holds surprisingly well. I might even keep it as the permanent solution if they don't move!

 

[Laith]

So, the first return... this is the first time I've done major pipework so it takes me a while to puzzle out which pieces to put together to make sure the pipe arrives where I want!

From the return pump (still needs adjustment). I put a union just before the clip so that I can remove that part without removing the straight length of the pipe (see next pic):

Along the back of the stand above the sump:

And up... another union so that I can remove the vertical length if needed:

Through that fourth bulkhead:

 

[Laith]

I think there is just enough space here to put a bend to go down into the corner of the tank. Had to stop there though as ran out of time.

Will have to cut out part of the weir comb for the return.

The second return has to wait for the 1m50 pipe length I ordered to be able to get the pipe behind the tank!

 

[najer]

Great work.

 

[Mortie31]

Your having too much fun... looking good fella

 

[Laith]

Great work.

Thanks... but lets wait and see when it's glued together and water is running through it ;Joyful.

Your having too much fun... looking good fella

Never too much fun! Wait until I start gluing the piping together... then the fumes will really make it fun ;Happy.

 

[Laith]

I'm wondering if there is any advantage to adding ball valves on the returns?

I don't need them to modify flow as the pumps are DC adjustable... and if I need to remove piping on the returns I can just let the water in them empty into the sump. I can't really see any other reasons for adding them... I have three remaining; I think I ordered too many.

Opinions?

And since I have three left, anybody see any place where it would make sense to add them?