New tank running for 3 days now here are Test results

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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there's a huge stand of forams right there, plus coral this is the best rock on the site :)

not sure about coralline, I lost my ability to keep it after switching to LED's from powercompact

good thing is though: you are into reefing, you don't need to test ammonia or nitrite on this reef ever again here's why

only a full fish kill left to rot can drive up ammonia, no other cause can while circulation remains active in the tank.

no form of testing helps you know of a fish kill, they're either dead or swimming/we remove dead ones.

it can't sneak up on you

ammonia can't trick you at month nine and then stop being controlled.

ammonia never rises before a fish kill in a display reef, it rises only after + rot time allowed like when someone is on vacation and their fish die.

your test kits are subject to misread at any time due to ten issues possible, that still doesn't mean a cycle can break/they cannot break.

all you have to do to know your ammonia is be able to see your fish living. once they're not living, remove them, never test for ammonia here again or you'll drive yourself bats lol not joking.

I have a nine page thread/ multiple ones/ where people with 1-3 year old tanks just all of a sudden decide their cycle is broken and we duel for two weeks while the whole time their starfish are alive, the fish are fine, the corals fine, the mess that testing for ammonia and nitrite after a cycle ends cannot possibly be understated.


your cycle is done, never speak of it again lol or someone will trick you into buying something if you do

stock that bad boy and make use of that $$ spent. *fish disease/from skipping preps/ very powerful loss factor you'd better be ready for by this coming summer.

if you lose a fish, don't dare test ammonia or nitrite as the cause/ they aren't.

you would reinstate fallow and qt of all animals if you want to address fish loss.
 
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FreshSaltyGuy

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there's a huge stand of forams right there, plus coral this is the best rock on the site :)

not sure about coralline, I lost my ability to keep it after switching to LED's from powercompact

good thing is though: you are into reefing, you don't need to test ammonia or nitrite on this reef ever again here's why

only a full fish kill left to rot can drive up ammonia, no other cause can while circulation remains active in the tank.

no form of testing helps you know of a fish kill, they're either dead or swimming/we remove dead ones.

it can't sneak up on you

ammonia can't trick you at month nine and then stop being controlled.

ammonia never rises before a fish kill in a display reef, it rises only after + rot time allowed like when someone is on vacation and their fish die.

your test kits are subject to misread at any time due to ten issues possible, that still doesn't mean a cycle can break/they cannot break.

all you have to do to know your ammonia is be able to see your fish living. once they're not living, remove them, never test for ammonia here again or you'll drive yourself bats lol not joking.

I have a nine page thread/ multiple ones/ where people with 1-3 year old tanks just all of a sudden decide their cycle is broken and we duel for two weeks while the whole time their starfish are alive, the fish are fine, the corals fine, the mess that testing for ammonia and nitrite after a cycle ends cannot possibly be understated.


your cycle is done, never speak of it again lol or someone will trick you into buying something if you do

stock that bad boy and make use of that $$ spent. *fish disease/from skipping preps/ very powerful loss factor you'd better be ready for by this coming summer.

if you lose a fish, don't dare test ammonia or nitrite as the cause/ they aren't.

you would reinstate fallow and qt of all animals if you want to address fish loss

there's a huge stand of forams right there, plus coral this is the best rock on the site :)

not sure about coralline, I lost my ability to keep it after switching to LED's from powercompact

good thing is though: you are into reefing, you don't need to test ammonia or nitrite on this reef ever again here's why

only a full fish kill left to rot can drive up ammonia, no other cause can while circulation remains active in the tank.

no form of testing helps you know of a fish kill, they're either dead or swimming/we remove dead ones.

it can't sneak up on you

ammonia can't trick you at month nine and then stop being controlled.

ammonia never rises before a fish kill in a display reef, it rises only after + rot time allowed like when someone is on vacation and their fish die.

your test kits are subject to misread at any time due to ten issues possible, that still doesn't mean a cycle can break/they cannot break.

all you have to do to know your ammonia is be able to see your fish living. once they're not living, remove them, never test for ammonia here again or you'll drive yourself bats lol not joking.

I have a nine page thread/ multiple ones/ where people with 1-3 year old tanks just all of a sudden decide their cycle is broken and we duel for two weeks while the whole time their starfish are alive, the fish are fine, the corals fine, the mess that testing for ammonia and nitrite after a cycle ends cannot possibly be understated.


your cycle is done, never speak of it again lol or someone will trick you into buying something if you do

stock that bad boy and make use of that $$ spent. *fish disease/from skipping preps/ very powerful loss factor you'd better be ready for by this coming summer.

if you lose a fish, don't dare test ammonia or nitrite as the cause/ they aren't.

you would reinstate fallow and qt of all animals if you want to address fish loss.
Awesome man simply awesome info thanks so much.
So since I don't test for Ammonia and Nitrites what are the main things I should test especially if I'm going to put corals in. This is what I think what do you say:

#1 TEMP
#2 Salinity
#3 PH
#4 Nitrates
#5 Calcium
#6 Magnesium

Now another question I have is if I have to raise PH, or Magnesium, or Calcium what is the best most effective method for those where I don't have to spend a million dollars on store products?

Thank you again Brandon really appreciate you and everyone here!
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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if that list was mine I'd swap testing pH for alkalinity instead

the only things I test in my 16 year packed nano are the first two above lol not joking, simple water changes work that well to balance everything else.

for a big tank/less water changes mine would be temp, salinity, calcium alk and mag and nothing else bc I'd still be doing routine water changes to some degree.
 
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FreshSaltyGuy

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if that list was mine I'd swap testing pH for alkalinity instead

the only things I test in my 16 year packed nano are the first two above lol not joking, simple water changes work that well to balance everything else.

for a big tank/less water changes mine would be temp, salinity, calcium alk and mag and nothing else bc I'd still be doing routine water changes to some degree.
How do I raise those trace elements if needed is there a household secret, like there is with Baking soda to raise PH?
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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I’d have to relay best means there to a chemist simply because my water changes prevented me from having to worry about dosers. I have no practice in that aspect

people here choose to manage alk more than they choose to directly alter a tank’s pH




There are so many complex interactions and ways to manage alk and calcium we couldn’t cover them in one post, as I read the trending here for dosing options in the chemistry forum

Last I read, chemistry folks were baking their baking soda to make it more soluble…the combos never end you’ll have to study that up I’m honestly not sure.

there’s pickling lime or calcium reactors or 2 part liquid dosers or baked baking soda or kalkwasser and probably ten more ways for calcium and alk options.
 
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EugeneVan

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FSG

I would like to introduce you to the world of skip cycling like they do at every reef convention where 200 display reefs line up ready all by Friday with no fails, stalls, or inability to carry fish for 30 years straight.


you just did that, your tank belongs there as a group example. your first sentence here was the tell: real aussie lr.
OMG, I want that instant cycle method :eek: :eek: We should ask all the new reef keepers to show us how many bottles of xyz magic solution they bought in the last 2 weeks.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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Using the bottles on dry rock setups is ok but really it’s a waste of cash on live rock systems.

formal cycling articles don’t differentiate the cycle types, they just state dose any cycle to 2 ppm and the cycle is done when everything is zero.

here is a skip cycle thread too, different from the prior one.

we dose no ammonia

we don’t do testing


we do benthic growth verification


people might think it’s a bad or dangerous method but it’s not, we pay extra for live rock with this capability. Nobody buys a dodge hellcat and drives the speed limit just the same. Paying for speed will beget speed / cycles too


there absolutely no correlation between skip cycling and fish disease, it’s unlinked. Nearly every entrant for disease help in the disease forum waited out the full time 30 day cycle and they’re still there everyday with new help posts for ten years running. Knowing exactly when a cycle is done vs the old way of an open-ended wait allows reefers to begin disease protocols at a clear time. As soon as the cycle ends for a given method, day one here, disease preps should begin.
 

Rmckoy

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good luck catching them :) lol !!
Fishing line with a barbless hook and a piece of seafood .

works like a charm .
on the ammonia topic , they are very hardy fish and Before I started reefing either black mollies or damsels were used as sacrificial ammonia sources .
perhaps at that time there was little knowledge about cycling . Or just pure ignorance ( they cost less than $5 )
 

EugeneVan

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Using the bottles on dry rock setups is ok but really it’s a waste of cash on live rock systems.

formal cycling articles don’t differentiate the cycle types, they just state dose any cycle to 2 ppm and the cycle is done when everything is zero.

here is a skip cycle thread too, different from the prior one.

we dose no ammonia

we don’t do testing


we do benthic growth verification


people might think it’s a bad or dangerous method but it’s not, we pay extra for live rock with this capability. Nobody buys a dodge hellcat and drives the speed limit just the same. Paying for speed will beget speed / cycles too


there absolutely no correlation between skip cycling and fish disease, it’s unlinked. Nearly every entrant for disease help in the disease forum waited out the full time 30 day cycle and they’re still there everyday with new help posts for ten years running. Knowing exactly when a cycle is done vs the old way of an open-ended wait allows reefers to begin disease protocols at a clear time. As soon as the cycle ends for a given method, day one here, disease preps should begin.
Don't get me start with the QT of fish. Flaskback to 2 years ago, I spend almost 1 year to do QT my Power Blue, Power Brown, Huppo tangs with the dose of copper power and different mediciations before I put them into my 200 gal reef. People think cycle of a fish tank need a few months is already too long. They are in the wrong hobby :):face-with-hand-over-mouth: Pictures of my power brown and huppo tangs. Bright color and very healthy. Happy animals, happy life.
 

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